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Old 08-06-2010, 04:23 PM
 
Location: Interior AK
4,731 posts, read 9,959,125 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jcwdhm View Post
I have draawn several but i have a limited amount of money and I want to build cheap. but I don't have have any idea of a price range or how big I can build. I will also be tearing down old houses and barns to get the wood out of them to use as the walls and celins
Keep in mind that with a properly engineered pole building (post framing) the building loads are entirely supported by the posts/poles and beams which can drastically reduce the amount and cost of any other framing put in the walls and floors (in conventional stick-framing the loads are distributed evenly across much smaller repetitive members).

If your design requires very large or long timber to support the building's loads and unsupported spans, it might be cheaper to stick-frame than post-frame because standard 2x dimensional studs & joists may be cheaper than 6x12 or 8x8 timbers. In that case, the only savings you might acheive with post-framing is the possible reduction in the cost of the foundation because the poles can be embedded directly into the ground and not require any additional foundation (concrete pads, stem walls, etc).

There are several references available to help you determine what kind of loads your structure will have based on the design factors, including tables with the loads that can be applied to different sizes of material. This can get really complicated if you want to do it yourself. So if you aren't into math or you live in an area that has really tight building codes it's probably best to purchase a engineer-stamped plan or hire an engineer/designer/architect to review your plans and do the calculations.

Keep in mind that the exterior walls are normally carrying all the building loads of a small structure. Once you have the box, you can put any configuration of internal walls into it because they aren't load-bearing. The only time that interior walls or posts start to be load-bearing and must remain in a certain position is when the building spans are too wide to be unsupported (usually not an issue in smaller structures).

For example, my cabin is 16x24... I can get away without any interior walls because my floor joists are 2x12 spaced every 16" which are rated to span the entire 16' width unsupported given my building loads. If my joists were smaller or farther apart, then I would have needed to add internal walls or posts to support the loads.

The American Wood Council has a nifty online span calculator to help you with the sizes, spacing and average loads for multiple species of dimensional lumber... http://www.awc.org/calculators/span/...rcalcstyle.asp
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Old 09-15-2010, 06:15 PM
 
Location: North Cackelacky....in the hills.
19,567 posts, read 21,895,045 times
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Floors are finally stained...came out okay,not the best however.






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Old 09-15-2010, 08:18 PM
 
Location: Not on the same page as most
2,505 posts, read 6,153,040 times
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Beautiful job Oz! What did you end up using for stain? What did you finish them with? The room looks amazing.

Last edited by tambre; 09-15-2010 at 08:19 PM.. Reason: grammar
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Old 09-15-2010, 08:26 PM
 
Location: North Cackelacky....in the hills.
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The woodstain was 'Moorish Teak' by a paint company called 'Zar'

Used quick drying polyurethane from the same company.
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Old 09-15-2010, 09:57 PM
 
Location: Interior AK
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Is that high-gloss urethane or is the floor still wet?
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Old 09-15-2010, 10:02 PM
 
Location: North Cackelacky....in the hills.
19,567 posts, read 21,895,045 times
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It is satin finish...The first two are dry the last it might still be wet.

When I downloaded the pics they became jumbled up.

It seems quite shiny to us,we wanted it pretty dull looking.
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Old 09-15-2010, 10:05 PM
 
Location: Interior AK
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we've got matte finish for ours since i hate shiny floor, but a satin finish shouldn't stay shiny for too long out in the woods unless you got some seriously hard polyurethane, take your shoes off before entering the house, and don't have any dogs
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Old 09-15-2010, 10:07 PM
 
Location: North Cackelacky....in the hills.
19,567 posts, read 21,895,045 times
Reputation: 2519
Quote:
Originally Posted by MissingAll4Seasons View Post
we've got matte finish for ours since i hate shiny floor, but a satin finish shouldn't stay shiny for too long out in the woods unless you got some seriously hard polyurethane, take your shoes off before entering the house, and don't have any dogs
We plan to take off our shoes...but the dogs will play Hell with the floor.
I put down three good coats so hopefully it will wear well.
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Old 09-15-2010, 10:13 PM
 
Location: Interior AK
4,731 posts, read 9,959,125 times
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I'm sure 3 coats will be pretty durable and the dogs will help knock down the shine a little without putting (m)any serious scratches or gouges in it.

Do you have a mudroom or enclosed porch area for shoe removal? I find the hardest part about removing my shoes up here is when I have an armload of firewood... do you put it all down inside the door or track mud/snow across the floor to the stove. It's a dilema
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Old 09-15-2010, 10:18 PM
 
Location: North Cackelacky....in the hills.
19,567 posts, read 21,895,045 times
Reputation: 2519
Quote:
Originally Posted by MissingAll4Seasons View Post

Do you have a mudroom or enclosed porch area for shoe removal?
Yes we have a mudroom downstairs,we have already decided shoes would be removed as this would also help with the red clay up there.

Quote:
I find the hardest part about removing my shoes up here is when I have an armload of firewood... do you put it all down inside the door or track mud/snow across the floor to the stove. It's a dilema
Well...Mrs oz has given thought to this,a little crane like device attached next to the deck at the front,load it up and haul in the wood.
It would be like those you see on the backs of pick up trucks.

We also have thought we could use it to haul up the appliances and such.
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