Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
We have no Perma-frost in this region. Our ground freezes every winter, starting at grade and slowly working down. Code says that all footings must be set at 4 foot below grade, to avoid being heaved by the frost.
It is common to see fence-posts heaved up out of the ground it they were not set deep enough.
Foundation walls set 4 foot below grade, will commonly freeze in the winter. Then frost will tend to creep in toward the center of the building as the winter goes along. Large greenhouses can keep the center of their floors thawed, but the floor near to the walls will be frozen; unless they are heated.
My crawlspace has a vapor barrier and then a thin layer of concrete. 2" of foam board over that. Then our radiant heated floors.
Sounds like its working for you. I used a thermal blanket, which was not cheap) under the basement slab.I am sure it helps, but forgot the most important part, laying the pex tubing in the concrete ! Sheet closed cell foam would have better , and cheaper.....its always a learning process, but now, at 71 , I think I am done building, on my fourth house build....I think thats a enough !!
Hello,
we have built a pole barn home and are living in it...LOVE LOVE LOVE it! From the inside you cannot tell it is a barn...we have radiant heat (under the concrete) so our laminate wood floors and tile files are always warm in the winter time. We also installed geo thermal (as a back up for heat) and for air conditioning.. This stays remarkably cool in the summertime (my husband says because of the white roof). My kitchen inside is amazing! Would love to send you pictures if you are interested. The kitchen/living/dining room are all one big room with windows all along the outside for an incredible view of the pond. Since there is no basement in our barn, we installed a "safe" room in one of the closets...That way if a huge storm ever came, we are safe...It is all solid steel with a vent in the top and solid steel door. Our barn is 3,000 square feet of living space with a 3,000 square foot attached garage/man cave. I had reservations at first about doing this, but absolutely thrilled that we did. Ideally, we were goint to build this as a temporary place also, but just decided to go ahead and make it permanent and we loved the end result. Inside it resembles a lodge with open rafters and wood ceiling in the living/kitchen/dining room. It is solidly built with studs and drywall (blown insulation). So far very efficient and definitely unique. Would build this building again in a heartbeat! Love it!
Hello,
we have built a pole barn home and are living in it...LOVE LOVE LOVE it! From the inside you cannot tell it is a barn...we have radiant heat (under the concrete) so our laminate wood floors and tile files are always warm in the winter time. We also installed geo thermal (as a back up for heat) and for air conditioning.. This stays remarkably cool in the summertime (my husband says because of the white roof). My kitchen inside is amazing! Would love to send you pictures if you are interested. The kitchen/living/dining room are all one big room with windows all along the outside for an incredible view of the pond. Since there is no basement in our barn, we installed a "safe" room in one of the closets...That way if a huge storm ever came, we are safe...It is all solid steel with a vent in the top and solid steel door. Our barn is 3,000 square feet of living space with a 3,000 square foot attached garage/man cave. I had reservations at first about doing this, but absolutely thrilled that we did. Ideally, we were goint to build this as a temporary place also, but just decided to go ahead and make it permanent and we loved the end result. Inside it resembles a lodge with open rafters and wood ceiling in the living/kitchen/dining room. It is solidly built with studs and drywall (blown insulation). So far very efficient and definitely unique. Would build this building again in a heartbeat! Love it!
Hi I am wanting to build a polebarn home to replace my home that burnt back in Nov I would be interested in any info you have on this as far as pros and cons heating cooling plumbing etc. I plan to use a slab foundation and wasn't sure I'd I should stick build the home on top of the slab or stick with the post and use 2x4 construction for interior and exterior framing. I have read that it is extra wasted cost doing the post because it is building an extra unnecessary wall. Any info would be appreciated thanks in advance.
Spray foam costs about $1/inch for a square foot. It is somewhat expensive. Costs even more to do it yourself. I have done it myself.
I used it 10 years ago. A single 'kit' [of A and B tanks] does 600 board feet [50 cubic foot] at 1-inch thick at roughly $600 per kit. [I just googled and check current pricing] It was roughly half that price in 2005.
If the A and B tanks are held at 110 degrees F, you can double the yield to 1200 board feet.
I do not understand why you are saying it would cost you more to DIY? The cost is $600 per DIY kit.
If you hire someone else your stupid, ans wasting money.
It is easy to use, and I had a lot of fun doing it.
[ quote] ... Use fiberglass if you can. Or the blown in attic insulation made of recycled materials.
I started with a pole barn and added until I have over 7000 feet.
Pros and cons to all construction methodologies.
Unless you can do it yourself or have a lot of time and money....I recommend buying already built and have it inspected before buying.
Custom homes can kill a person in so many ways.[/quote]
I sprayed 2 inches of foam, then covered that with 9 inches of fiberglass. I am in Southern Maine, your results may vary.
You show $1/inch per sq ft for foam. That is multiples more expensive than fiberglass. It is also a little more expensive that paying a professional to do it. One would normally buy at least 2-3" and the pros charge a lot less for additional inches. Like about 1/2 price.
Double the yield at 110 F? Okie Dokey Wasn't my experience at all. Foam that has too much air can collapse over the years. I have seen that.
Foam is glue. It is good for holding old barns together. Or in places where fiberglass is not readily hung.
I've only insulated about 30,000 sq ft. What could I know?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Submariner
I used it 10 years ago. A single 'kit' [of A and B tanks] does 600 board feet [50 cubic foot] at 1-inch thick at roughly $600 per kit. [I just googled and check current pricing] It was roughly half that price in 2005.
If the A and B tanks are held at 110 degrees F, you can double the yield to 1200 board feet.
I do not understand why you are saying it would cost you more to DIY? The cost is $600 per DIY kit.
If you hire someone else your stupid, ans wasting money.
It is easy to use, and I had a lot of fun doing it.
[ quote] ... Use fiberglass if you can. Or the blown in attic insulation made of recycled materials.
I started with a pole barn and added until I have over 7000 feet.
Pros and cons to all construction methodologies.
Unless you can do it yourself or have a lot of time and money....I recommend buying already built and have it inspected before buying.
Custom homes can kill a person in so many ways.
I sprayed 2 inches of foam, then covered that with 9 inches of fiberglass. I am in Southern Maine, your results may vary.
I am new to the city-data.com website, however I read your post about your pole barn home. We live in Canada and are interested in building one; very interested actually. I am curious how much it cost you, how you planned it, what materials you used, heating, etc. Please contact me in a private message.
Thank you.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.