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My new home here is Texas has 3 units. 2, 4 tons and a 2 ton. I have 3 Honeywell whole house media filters (5" type I believe with the electronics). Is it necessary to also use the 1" filters at the main returns? the builder said it was not necessary. Would it overload the system if I added just those cheap non-pleated ones?
My new home here is Texas has 3 units. 2, 4 tons and a 2 ton. I have 3 Honeywell whole house media filters (5" type I believe with the electronics). Is it necessary to also use the 1" filters at the main returns? the builder said it was not necessary. Would it overload the system if I added just those cheap non-pleated ones?
Thanks for the site link...
This is what I have http://yourhome.honeywell.com/Consum...ic/Default.htm
, 3 of them in the Attic. I also have the returns in 3 areas for the standard 1" filters. I have 4 zones. (2 upstairs, and 2 down stairs)
Thanks for the site link...
This is what I have Electronic Air Cleaners - Honeywell Your Home Expert
, 3 of them in the Attic. I also have the returns in 3 areas for the standard 1" filters. I have 4 zones. (2 upstairs, and 2 down stairs)
By the way that wasn't an advertising site that I linked to....although they sell stuff it was more for the explanation of MERV ratings.
If you have the HW's and they are in the return before the air handler/furnace/coil.....then no you do not need filters in the main returns. They would just add more restriction. Although I'm not exactly sure which model you have this is the description for the F300E1027.
• Very low pressure drop.
• Exclusive wireless W8600A AIRWATCH indicator reminds customers when to wash cells to keep the unit operating at peak efficiency, as well as when to change UV Lamps and Humidifier Pads (optional).
• Exclusive 10-year Clean Coil Guarantee. Imo that would pretty much keep me happy and worry free....I would say no need for filters in the main returns.....You could still use them if you wanted to keep the returns clean but I would ask an HVAC contracotr or whoever just installed the units if it's okay and if they could verify it wasn't doing damage. You shouldn't have to worry about supplies getting dirty with those EAC. If they garuntee the coil to be clean for 10 years then the ducts afterwards would also be.
The returns without any filtration will eventually get dusty but even with low MERV rated filters they will still eventually get dusty. I'd personally just use the EAC as the filter. You'll just have to keep an eye on the indicator and keep maintained accordingly.
Thanks. I have the F300 series at the air handlers. The AC guy said the same thing you said, no need for the extra 1" filters, I was just trying to keep dust out of the returns.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJon3475
By the way that wasn't an advertising site that I linked to....although they sell stuff it was more for the explanation of MERV ratings.
If you have the HW's and they are in the return before the air handler/furnace/coil.....then no you do not need filters in the main returns. They would just add more restriction. Although I'm not exactly sure which model you have this is the description for the F300E1027.
• Very low pressure drop.
• Exclusive wireless W8600A AIRWATCH indicator reminds customers when to wash cells to keep the unit operating at peak efficiency, as well as when to change UV Lamps and Humidifier Pads (optional).
• Exclusive 10-year Clean Coil Guarantee. Imo that would pretty much keep me happy and worry free....I would say no need for filters in the main returns.....You could still use them if you wanted to keep the returns clean but I would ask an HVAC contracotr or whoever just installed the units if it's okay and if they could verify it wasn't doing damage. You shouldn't have to worry about supplies getting dirty with those EAC. If they garuntee the coil to be clean for 10 years then the ducts afterwards would also be.
The returns without any filtration will eventually get dusty but even with low MERV rated filters they will still eventually get dusty. I'd personally just use the EAC as the filter. You'll just have to keep an eye on the indicator and keep maintained accordingly.
Can you provide insight into choosing the best style of air register to cool a room? When to choose a 3-way vs a 1-way? Does it depend on window palcement...etc..?
THANKS
VBE...BTW just posted this as a new thread....just joined web-site
What is the best way to introduce fresh air into a HVAC system without using a heat recovery ventilator (HRV)?
Cheapest way is to slightly crack a window and use the bathroom fan. Obviously this will add to the load on the HVAC system. I do this on days where humidity is low or if I am cooking something that will stink up the house or painting...ect.. My place isn't huge though just under 1,000 sq ft.
I'm assuming you know your house is extremely tight? A lot of "tight" houses have more leaks than one might think.
If you crack one door leading to the outside then shut another does the other door move a lot or a little or at all if everything else is shut?
Cheapest way is to slightly crack a window and use the bathroom fan. Obviously this will add to the load on the HVAC system. I do this on days where humidity is low or if I am cooking something that will stink up the house or painting...ect.. My place isn't huge though just under 1,000 sq ft.
I'm assuming you know your house is extremely tight? A lot of "tight" houses have more leaks than one might think.
If you crack one door leading to the outside then shut another does the other door move a lot or a little or at all if everything else is shut?
That's good advise on testing the tightness of of a home. I was wondering if you knew a way of introducing fresh outside air directly into the HVAC ducts just like an HRV would. Only I want to avoid using the HVR. Thanks
That's good advise on testing the tightness of of a home. I was wondering if you knew a way of introducing fresh outside air directly into the HVAC ducts just like an HRV would. Only I want to avoid using the HVR. Thanks
Well once you figure out your actual infiltration rate with something like a blower door test. then one can figure the size of a pipe needed placed in the return plenum. The lower pressure in the return box will pull in outside air and you can run it through and filtration system.
Not the best way but it works. Fairly complicated fresh air systems can be open and closed by enthalpy sensitive devices.
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Air registers
