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Thanks for the link, BigJon3475. I'll spend some time there next week. The HVAC tech who fixed the problems at the previous house did reset some of the systems here. The installer corrected several problems with the ducts, but then I asked the folks I knew to take over. They replaced the t-stats, took care of coolant issues, and did seasonal cleaning/servicing. I can ask them these questions as well, but like to do some homework first.
The basement dehumidifier was set up when two hygrometers gave humidity readings >70%. Its exhaust seems to warm the immediate area, which is near the t-stat, so the system runs a little more often than it might otherwise. That's okay with me, at least until we feel confident that the basement has dried out.
We're also addressing some water intrusion issues on the main floor due to poor caulking and flashing. I'll know soon if that's been successful.
Open loops on geothermal should have a water filter to remove minerals,etc. from the source water. Open or closed loop systems use ground water which has constant app. 55 degree temperature. This allow the water source heat pump to provide maximum heating or cooling, no matter the outside temperature. Closed and open are comparable in effectiveness. Geothermal systems use a duct system. With any duct system, the ducts should be properly sized.
Minisplits use ductless indoor units that are similar in looks to a window unit. A single outdoor unit can be matched with several indoor units. Minisplits are relatively efficient, but are still affected by the ambient outdoor temperature.
What state do you live in?
Hi -- we live in MD now but plan to move in the relatively near term to either WilmingtonDE/Phil or Atlanta. The ducts in our 1950's rancher right now are awful, and I've been told by countless HVAC folk there is nothing to do to get things balanced other than tear up all the walls to get to the ducts, so we've just lived with it. If we move we may well end up in an older house again (until I can one day build my little bungalow from scratch, which is the source of a lot of my questions). I know geothermal is "greener" -- I'd assume minisplits, if they truly use less energy, are greener as well? I'd love to see things laid out from best to worst options for the environment someplace...I don't see us ever being totally off the grid solar-powered people based on what the economics seem to look like but who knows.
Thanks for the link, BigJon3475. I'll spend some time there next week. The HVAC tech who fixed the problems at the previous house did reset some of the systems here. The installer corrected several problems with the ducts, but then I asked the folks I knew to take over. They replaced the t-stats, took care of coolant issues, and did seasonal cleaning/servicing. I can ask them these questions as well, but like to do some homework first.
The basement dehumidifier was set up when two hygrometers gave humidity readings >70%. Its exhaust seems to warm the immediate area, which is near the t-stat, so the system runs a little more often than it might otherwise. That's okay with me, at least until we feel confident that the basement has dried out.
We're also addressing some water intrusion issues on the main floor due to poor caulking and flashing. I'll know soon if that's been successful.
Thanks for your help. Have a good weekend!
If you get an answer from "beenthere" follow it blindly. His name speaks volumes. I would seek him out if you are not shy.
Hi -- we live in MD now but plan to move in the relatively near term to either WilmingtonDE/Phil or Atlanta. The ducts in our 1950's rancher right now are awful, and I've been told by countless HVAC folk there is nothing to do to get things balanced other than tear up all the walls to get to the ducts, so we've just lived with it. If we move we may well end up in an older house again (until I can one day build my little bungalow from scratch, which is the source of a lot of my questions). I know geothermal is "greener" -- I'd assume minisplits, if they truly use less energy, are greener as well? I'd love to see things laid out from best to worst options for the environment someplace...I don't see us ever being totally off the grid solar-powered people based on what the economics seem to look like but who knows.
Off the grid is totally possible if you have the money.
I just joined, but I felt compelled to respond to the original post made by BigJon.
I live in an 11-yr old 2-story house that we custom built 11 yrs ago here in Se Minnesota. Ever since moving in, the AC has had a hard time keeping up on hot days (90 degrees or hotter). We have an automatic 3-zone system with a thermostat on each level (basement, main floor, upstairs). The main level has approx 1450 sq ft, the upstairs and basement have approx 1276 sq ft.
On hot days the AC runs continuously from about 1030AM until 11PM without cycling and the temp approaches 80 degrees upstairs at 5pm (I keep thermostat set to 76). The AC unit is a Carrier 2.5 ton air conditioner coupled to a Carrier furnace inside the home. In the past 11 yrs I've had several heating/AC experts come to adjust, check, and investigate the "problem" with my AC. I believe the unit is just simply too small for my home.
For reference, one of my neighbors has a multilevel home with approx same sq footage as my house, they too have the problem where the AC runs continuously and can't keep up. They have a 2.5 ton Goodman AC unit. The neighbor on my other side has a 3 ton unit with a 2-story house that is slightly smaller than our house (upstairs approx 1000 sq ft), and that units seems to keep up pretty well.
I have a quote from a local HVAC guy for a 3.5 ton AC unit and am ready to go for it. Any comments - is this a mistake? Any other suggestions?
Help you......tell me your problems with your HVAC/R system...Tell me what you want to learn....Tell me what's wrong or what you think is wrong with your HVAC system...Help me get better at my job. At the same time I will help you be comfortable at a reasonable price....I will give that info for free
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I'll be 100% totally honest and if I can't solve it I will absolutely find someone that can.
My mom's a/c didn't cool. She called a company out and they charged her $289 for a 3.5 med. capacitor and $108 for a 3 med capacitor. When they left, it still didn't work- they told her it would take time to begin to cool. She called several times since last Wed. and they are not returning her call. Today she had another company out and found that the fan outside was not working. Once replaced, it now works like a charm.
My question- what is the going price for these capacitors? Parts only, not install. And how much for the install? Is it an involved procedure?
My mom's a/c didn't cool. She called a company out and they charged her $289 for a 3.5 med. capacitor and $108 for a 3 med capacitor. When they left, it still didn't work- they told her it would take time to begin to cool. She called several times since last Wed. and they are not returning her call. Today she had another company out and found that the fan outside was not working. Once replaced, it now works like a charm.
My question- what is the going price for these capacitors? Parts only, not install. And how much for the install? Is it an involved procedure?
3.5 mfd and a 3 mfd. They put two capacitors in the indoor unit?
It sounds like they didn't know which one to put in?
Either way that's way more expensive than the actual capacitor. $100-$120/hr is normal rates for around me and a trip charge $10-$30 is normal here. Capacitor price maybe $20-$40 and they usually markup 100% so $40-$80. Low end $150, high end $230. Sounds more to me like they should be on the low low low end though if they left without it working.
Connected: 2-6 wires with easy disconnect clips. 5 minutes including checking to see if the capacitor is dead for each.
Last edited by BigJon3475; 05-27-2009 at 09:55 AM..
I just joined, but I felt compelled to respond to the original post made by BigJon.
I live in an 11-yr old 2-story house that we custom built 11 yrs ago here in Se Minnesota. Ever since moving in, the AC has had a hard time keeping up on hot days (90 degrees or hotter). We have an automatic 3-zone system with a thermostat on each level (basement, main floor, upstairs). The main level has approx 1450 sq ft, the upstairs and basement have approx 1276 sq ft.
On hot days the AC runs continuously from about 1030AM until 11PM without cycling and the temp approaches 80 degrees upstairs at 5pm (I keep thermostat set to 76). The AC unit is a Carrier 2.5 ton air conditioner coupled to a Carrier furnace inside the home. In the past 11 yrs I've had several heating/AC experts come to adjust, check, and investigate the "problem" with my AC. I believe the unit is just simply too small for my home.
For reference, one of my neighbors has a multilevel home with approx same sq footage as my house, they too have the problem where the AC runs continuously and can't keep up. They have a 2.5 ton Goodman AC unit. The neighbor on my other side has a 3 ton unit with a 2-story house that is slightly smaller than our house (upstairs approx 1000 sq ft), and that units seems to keep up pretty well.
I have a quote from a local HVAC guy for a 3.5 ton AC unit and am ready to go for it. Any comments - is this a mistake? Any other suggestions?
Thanks
That does sound small for your home as you describe it. Many factors change the heat load on your home. Have you painted the outside of the house or cut any trees down? Do you leave your blinds open and curtains drawn back? Did any of the HVAC contractors measure airflow in CFM (accurately, not with hand) and compare it to what it should be doing? A 2.5 ton system should be moving around 1000 CFM. If you're using a pleated 1" filter in place of a regular fiberglass woven el cheapo then you need to make sure your return is big enough to even move the air.
If your going to have someone install another system for you makesure you get load and loss calculations. They will tell you exactly what each room will need in terms of airflow and capacity. It will alos point out problem areas in the home where you can improve the envolope and save you money over the long run.
Wright soft and ACCA manual J are the most common load calculation programs. If they don't measure practically everything on your home from windows, doors, overhangs, direction of house, roof pitch etc, they are not doing a proper load calculation and you are not getting your money's worth.
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A/C troubles on my house
