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I have a simple question. Okay, my house is one story about 1300sq.ft and has a heat pump. Last winter I noticed the copper pipe going into crawl space was insulated, but once I got into the crawlspace it was exposed, and when I put my hand on the pipe it was warm (with the unit running). My very first thought was I'm losing heat from this pipe. I went the the hardware store and bought some pipe insulation and put on it. After I did that I noticed that copper pipe got pretty hot. Was it the right thing to do to put that insulation on there? I haven't had any problems.
Yes that was the right thing to do. The proper insulation is called armaflex. What you may have gotten from the hardware store was plumbing insulation or polethylene pipe insulation (both are the same thing)? It's okay to use since armaflex isn't really sold at your local hardware if it is I would get that as it holds up better outside (don't make a special trip though just put it on your list to see if they have it). In the summer time that is called the suction line in the winter it's called the hot gas line. Every 1 degree rise in temp in that line during cooling season is approximately 1% loss in capacity (not sure what the losses are for drops in temp during heating season). I would make sure the entire thing is insulated if you havent already...all the way up to both inside and outside coils. You lose in heating and cooling season if it isn't.
Actually, we just found out we have a lead last month. I asked my neighbor on the same day because I saw a heating/air guy at her house that day too,lol. She had said that she had a leak for 2 years and was just getting freon added but now her compressor burnt out so she had to get it replaced.
I didn't have the guy check for the leak that was out at the time because I wanted to get a second opinion from our regular guy.
Now we are actually putting the house on the market as we are moving out of state so I'll probably just list "as is" on the a/c because i don't have the time or gumption to get it fixed right now!
My next door neighbor has had the same problems and a couple others that I know of. I will have to pass on the info about petitioning York and seeing what they can do...thanks
It's worth a shot. Just for future reference the refrigerant is what cools the compressor. When it leaks out the compressor over heats and actually makes the acid scenario mentioned above happen faster if there was any moisture in the system. Always verify your HVAC guy has a micron gauge. micron gauge - Google Product Search
Without one there is no way they will know if they removed all the moisture or not....the old I ran the pump two hours, the pump changes sounds...ect...are old myths that have no bearing in actual refrigeration services. Good luck with the house.
Yes that looks similar to it. I covered the whole line and also wraped it in duct tape. I know it must have made a difference because like I said the pipe went from being slightly warm to being hot (during the winter).
Yeah the temp of the line correlates with the ambient temps. One old method not really used anymore to check the ref. charge during winter time was to add refrigerant until that line was 110* above ambient temps. It isn't used anymore though because of how many different types of systems there are and the numerous efficiency ratings.
Do you know if there is insulation in between the floor and the bonus room and if so what is the value of it? Do the windows get direct sunlight in that room? Can you or do you have curtains and blinds?
Sorry for taking so long to answer I been fighting a stomach bug/virus.
G'vill's design temp is 91 degrees. If the system was designed using ACCA procedures or similar when it's above 91 your system should start to lose ground. I wouldn't be real concerned if it isn't keeping up in those 99/100 degree days.....it's the trade off for effciency. If it's a two stage system sometimes they design the second stage to handle temps sliughtly higher than design conditions because you can get the best of both worlds.
I have no idea of the insulation in this house. I assume it was up to code when it was built 10 years ago but don't know what code is. The window in the bonus room gets direct sunlight morning to early afternoon. I had never really considered that the garage might add heat or cold to that room but I'm sure it does.
We've discussed an increase in the tonage of the unit to better cool the house on those extremely hot days but unfortunately we had to replace the outside unit unexpectedly a few weeks ago. We were told we would have to replace the exchange handler to increase the tonage and we couldn't do that this year. Maybe next time.
I have no idea of the insulation in this house. I assume it was up to code when it was built 10 years ago but don't know what code is. The window in the bonus room gets direct sunlight morning to early afternoon. I had never really considered that the garage might add heat or cold to that room but I'm sure it does.
We've discussed an increase in the tonage of the unit to better cool the house on those extremely hot days but unfortunately we had to replace the outside unit unexpectedly a few weeks ago. We were told we would have to replace the exchange handler to increase the tonage and we couldn't do that this year. Maybe next time.
It basically gives a larger surface area exposed to higher ambient temps. Instead of just the roof area and sides being exposed to the ambient and higher than ambient air you also have the floor being exposed now. You need to work on that one room. Adding more won't help the uneven cooling and it may hurt. Above is a file that needs to be read. I have a feeling the zone system is what killed your outdoor unit. that's quiet complicated and to be honest I don't fully understand so I can't really speak on it that much. zoned systems can be done but are typically just as expensive as just adding to separate units....the different is on change out of two separate units you have twice the initial cost in materials.
I would do something about that window...curtains and blinds will help a lot also any electrical outlets make sure they are sealed up (they sell insulation for the outlets at the big box store if you'll just ask a sales person they can guide you). The majority of your heat load for your home is from the windows. They are the weakest link in the envelope. The curtains and such may help but are considered bandaids. The duct system should be supplying enough air to the room to counteract the heat gain. It doesn't sound like the heat gain for that room was done properly on the build and most likely doesn't account for the floor area being exposed to hotter than typically floor conditions....along with heat rising of course.
P.S. you can open the curtains in the winter for solar heat or leave them closed for insulation purposes you'll have to see which option seems to work best for you....of course that's if you don't already have curtains.
Location: When things get hot they expand. Im not fat. Im hot.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJon3475
Cut the power to it and definitely clean the coils even if they look clean debris over time that makes it past the filter fills in the gaps. Don't do anything that can bend the coils over. Use a good degreaser def. not anything with acid. Something like purple power diluted with water is fine. I wouldn't use anything like soap that may leave residue on the coil. Also check the fan for dirt build up if you can see it. Vacuum any dust or debris other than those things the only stuff left is checking electrical parts which I don't normally recommend because of the knowldge needed to properly diagnose them....and the danger factor.
Thanks muchly. I got some info off the web but it was for installers. Its always good to get a second opinion too. . I hate to pay if its something I can do. But on the other hand I firmly believe you can seriously mess up your bits by messin with tidbits you know nothing about. . Ive been busy today, Ill probably tackle it tomorrow or Monday.
I hope youre feeling better. Take care. Those summer bugs are no fun.
Thanks muchly. I got some info off the web but it was for installers. Its always good to get a second opinion too. . I hate to pay if its something I can do. But on the other hand I firmly believe you can seriously mess up your bits by messin with tidbits you know nothing about. . Ive been busy today, Ill probably tackle it tomorrow or Monday.
I hope youre feeling better. Take care. Those summer bugs are no fun.
Whats the make and model number maybe I have some info for ya....
Location: When things get hot they expand. Im not fat. Im hot.
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Hey Jon. Im done. Wasnt that bad actually. Dont know why I put it off for so long.
I took the front off and washed it. Then I gently vacuumed the coils wih the soft upholstry brush attachment. After that I used my pump sprayer to spray the coils with plain water until the water ran clear in the tray. I sprayed them as best I could but I didnt clean the blower wheel, blower housing, condensor fan etc cause that involved taking the unit apart. As far as I could tell they looked okay so I didnt want to chance taking it apart. I did have to use a pipe cleaner to unblock the drain outside. I let it drain and dry for a while then I plugged it back in. Seems to be doing okay. .
Heres the info from under the front.
General Electric model #A Z 3 2 H 1 5 D 5 B M 2
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. Okay, my house is one story about 1300sq.ft and has a heat pump. Last winter I noticed the copper pipe going into crawl space was insulated, but once I got into the crawlspace it was exposed, and when I put my hand on the pipe it was warm (with the unit running). My very first thought was I'm losing heat from this pipe. I went the the hardware store and bought some pipe insulation and put on it. After I did that I noticed that copper pipe got pretty hot. Was it the right thing to do to put that insulation on there? I haven't had any problems.
. I hate to pay if its something I can do. But on the other hand I firmly believe you can seriously mess up your bits by messin with tidbits you know nothing about. 
