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The reason I keep asking about returns is because a very large majority of them are undersized. The surface area sometimes is figured with width x height which gives sq inches and then translated into sq ft.
This is wrong there are a few more steps to it. There should be an ak factor applied to if for total surface area. minus fins and area that isn't completely exposed. Basically it's called effective area. It's usually quiet a bit less. An indicator of return that is to small is it will be loud. It will huff as sometimes it's referred to. they actually make a whistle that does blow till your return get's above 600 fpm so you know when to change your filter....all to many times homeowners will put the whistle in with a new filter and it will already whistle.
If your using those pleated filters...take them out unless you know your returns are large enough and go back to the cheap fiberglass ones...those things are considered furnace killers if the returns are sized large enough for the pressure drop.
I'll bite since I'm not in the area - the upstairs is SO hot, A/C is great on the main level, but 2nd floor (and it's only a Cape Cod) so not huge, upstairs is HOT, HOT.
I have almost the same question. single zone system with 1 thermostat. its not the entire upstairs just 2 adjoining bedrooms. Hotter in summer and colder in winter then the rest of the upstairs rooms.
Are the rooms over a garage? Is there anyways to shade the rooms during the heat of the day?
here are some things to help...most are common knowledge but are useful and may remind you of something you might have forgotten.
It seems to me since it's only two rooms it could be a duct issue? Do you have access to the attic or are the vents ran through the floor....trying to get a mental. http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/6/...hot%20days.doc
You can ignore the design temperature thing of course since it's for my area.
Location: Sometimes Maryland, sometimes NoVA. Depends on the day of the week
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJon3475
Is there any of the larger copper pipe exposed without insulation? What city in MD are you in? How do you know the drain is not clogged just curious? I have to ask lots of question to get a mental picture.
Mostly b/c we took the drain apart at every joint. And when he took the long run off, he could see a round circle of light at the other end of the tube. Would a picture help?
Quote:
No I wouldn't close of a return. maximum velocity for best results and quiet operation is 500 feet per minute. You can go slightly higher but the static pressure starts to build up to much at a certain point it just stops moving air. Closing off a return vent will increase that velocity and static to a point of possibly causing damage. How large is your system in tonnage? if you don't know can you write model numbers downs and make?
Three ton. 17 registers (11 up, 6 down). I believe we are 1200sq ft upstairs and 600 finished downstairs, but don't quote me on that. Will need to double check this evening.
We do plan on obtaining several more quotes. The first one was our regular company, but frankly, we aren't too happy with them. Last fall, they serviced our (working) furnace and then, a week later it stopped working resulting in a $150 service call. Then, they were back here 3 weeks ago to service it again (part of the service contract), and two weeks later, it starts dripping water in places it never has before?! I no longer trust them.
Mostly b/c we took the drain apart at every joint. And when he took the long run off, he could see a round circle of light at the other end of the tube. Would a picture help?
No that's fine I was just wanting to make sure you knew 100% it wasn't clogged.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rubytue
Three ton. 17 registers (11 up, 6 down). I believe we are 1200sq ft upstairs and 600 finished downstairs, but don't quote me on that. Will need to double check this evening.
We do plan on obtaining several more quotes. The first one was our regular company, but frankly, we aren't too happy with them. Last fall, they serviced our (working) furnace and then, a week later it stopped working resulting in a $150 service call. Then, they were back here 3 weeks ago to service it again (part of the service contract), and two weeks later, it starts dripping water in places it never has before?! I no longer trust them.
Yeah him telling you to cover the return lead me to that conclusion. I would pass...Only someone trained in sales would say that..anyone with an understanding of how systems work would never say that.
Thought just hit me....is the return closed now?
If it's closed it will actually cause the air handler to try and suck air from places it wouldn't normally....the condensate trap is one of them....What happens is it builds up and doesn't allow drainage and then when it cuts off you hear it sound like a water fall.
Although it looks confusing all that really matter is looking at the total cooling number on the right.
It should start with 1000CFM in the left hand column @ 0 elevation.
Moving 30,000 btu's 30,000/12,000 gives you a 2.5 ton system. Change that number from 1000 CFM to 500 and see what total cooling is.
It's not 100% accurate because the actual inlet and outlet temps would change. You would actually feel colder air from the vents with less airflow but it explains it well enough.
Location: Sometimes Maryland, sometimes NoVA. Depends on the day of the week
1,501 posts, read 11,784,403 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJon3475
Thought just hit me....is the return closed now?
If it's closed it will actually cause the air handler to try and suck air from places it wouldn't normally....the condensate trap is one of them....What happens is it builds up and doesn't allow drainage and then when it cuts off you hear it sound like a water fall.
It is, but the problem started before the return was closed off. I'll go pull the cover off now.
See if any of the larger copper pipe with insulation on it is exposed without the insulation. That line a lot of time will get below the dew point and sweat in certain conditions.
Location: Sometimes Maryland, sometimes NoVA. Depends on the day of the week
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Will do! Thanks And FWIW, no water this evening. Yesterday there was some, but Saturday was fine. Last Wednesday was a mini-flood, but Thursday was fine. Dew point has been between 60 and 75 for the past week. Would that make a difference? But again, we didn't have this problem last summer, and the only thing that has changed (other than the filters) is we've had the folks in to do their "service."
Oh, and to answer and earlier question - we are in north-eastern Maryland. Between Baltimore and Deleware (but not eastern shore)
O.K I'll take you up on your offer also.
We have a 2 story house, 2 a/c units.
Here is a first question:
1. is the thermostat supposed to be right under the return vent? If yes,why?
and the reason I am asking is because:
first floor hallway is open to the ceiling on the second floor,the thermostat is almost right there near the hallway.All our bedrooms are upstairs,so for several years we could not make the temperature right on the second floor.
at night we would turn up the a/c downstairs but the thermostat upstairs thinks that's it's really hot (cause the 2nd floor thermostat right above the one downstairs)and just keeps cooling and we would be freezing in our bedrooms w/doors closed and visa versa in the winter time.
So a few years ago we had moved 2nd floor thermostat in our bedroom(it's the biggest room on the 2nd floor),this way thermostat will actually register the temperature upstairs in the bedroom and not hallway.
Thank you .
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And FWIW, no water this evening. Yesterday there was some, but Saturday was fine. Last Wednesday was a mini-flood, but Thursday was fine. Dew point has been between 60 and 75 for the past week. Would that make a difference? But again, we didn't have this problem last summer, and the only thing that has changed (other than the filters) is we've had the folks in to do their "service."
