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Old 04-27-2014, 08:48 AM
 
Location: Anthem, AZ
2,118 posts, read 3,776,884 times
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How do I remove the old gearcase cover? Looks really worn and kit came with new.
From looks of sealant on right side, maybe need to pry old sealant loose?
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Old 04-27-2014, 09:00 AM
 
Location: Anthem, AZ
2,118 posts, read 3,776,884 times
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I got it...just a little gentle prying.
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Old 04-27-2014, 09:35 AM
 
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Originally Posted by Messing About View Post
I got it...just a little gentle prying.
That's good news....any other questions call anytime...you have my number.

Gary
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Old 04-27-2014, 11:04 AM
 
Location: Anthem, AZ
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After a breakfast break and a store run for marine lube....here's the new gearcase cover.

As I suspected, the entire lower unit had sand everywhere. I sues a tiny screwdriver and my shop vac to break it loose and suction it all out.

Onto the new waterpump install....
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Old 04-27-2014, 11:49 AM
 
Location: Florida
1,646 posts, read 3,026,543 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Messing About View Post
After a breakfast break and a store run for marine lube....here's the new gearcase cover.

As I suspected, the entire lower unit had sand everywhere. I sues a tiny screwdriver and my shop vac to break it loose and suction it all out.

Onto the new waterpump install....
Looks good MA. Please don't use any RTV or you or the next owner will be cursing you next time! Nothing is needed but I like to use Napa aviation sealer on stuff like this...never dries and holds the gasket on. I'm sure you know to make sure you have the gear shift splines lined up correctly before slapping it all back together.
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Old 04-27-2014, 06:58 PM
 
Location: Anthem, AZ
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So all of that work went smooth but still I'm lacking RPM and power underway. Changed the lower fuel filter but that didn't do it. Found a small hole in the fuel hose from the fuel pump to the upper filter. Will seek a replacement tomorrow and give another trial run.

Water pump still needed changing so it wasn't in vane.
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Old 04-27-2014, 07:21 PM
 
1,917 posts, read 2,631,029 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Messing About View Post
So all of that work went smooth but still I'm lacking RPM and power underway. Changed the lower fuel filter but that didn't do it. Found a small hole in the fuel hose from the fuel pump to the upper filter. Will seek a replacement tomorrow and give another trial run.

Water pump still needed changing so it wasn't in vane.
Next step would be to check your spark plugs to be none are wet and your getting good spark.

Also a compression test is easy to do while you have the plugs out.

One other thing is when you run the motor make sure exhaust comes out through the prop, it is very very unlikely but is you have an obstruction that would limit the power.

Gary


Gary

Last edited by MartyGras; 04-27-2014 at 07:30 PM..
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Old 04-27-2014, 07:55 PM
 
Location: Florida
1,646 posts, read 3,026,543 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Messing About View Post
So all of that work went smooth but still I'm lacking RPM and power underway. Changed the lower fuel filter but that didn't do it. Found a small hole in the fuel hose from the fuel pump to the upper filter. Will seek a replacement tomorrow and give another trial run.

Water pump still needed changing so it wasn't in vane.
Ya didn't think the water pump would fix your power problem, did ya?

Is this a carbed or FI motor? Either way, a pinhole in a fuel line probably won't cause that problem either, as a bowl (carb or vapor separator) full of gas is a bowl full of gas, and the problem would only show up after prolonged high rpm if it was a small hole in the hose (bowl not refilling fast enough because it's sucking air). Replace it anyway, obviously. Hoses before the filters would have a slight vacuum so a leak might not be evident unless you pump the bulb. Pumping the bulb while underway and the problem is happening is an easy way to rule out a bad pump or lack of fuel..which I doubt you have.

What motor? What is your WOT RPM? Is this a recent problem or was it always like this...if the later could be propped wrong.

I agree with Gary, pull the plugs and see how they look. Compression check while they're out. If you need to borrow a comp tester let me know. If the plugs are old replace them (NAPA!).

If everything checks out you may have some crap in your carbs.

Knowing if "lack of RPMs" means 5200 or 4000 would help diagnose.
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Old 04-28-2014, 05:49 AM
 
Location: Port Charlotte, FL - Dallas, PA
5,172 posts, read 4,945,353 times
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If it's a newer, meaning computerized system and not a "dumb" carbureted engine, the computer may be telling the engine to not run WOT as a means of self preservation. For instance, mine (a Merc OB) will cut the speed down automatically to 3000 PRM if it senses a restriction in water flow, water temp, oil PSI, oil level in the main tank, etc.

Last edited by MikMal; 04-28-2014 at 05:58 AM..
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Old 04-28-2014, 05:31 PM
 
Location: Anthem, AZ
2,118 posts, read 3,776,884 times
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By newer, I'm guessing 1995 doesn't qualify, lol.
So today the upper fuel filter and fuel hose were replaced.
Still not the power I'm used to enjoying. Couldn't get over 25 MPH and about 3500RPM at WOT. I'm accustomed to 37-39 @ 5200 depending on chop.

Going to run compression test tomorrow. This is the 2+2 cylinder. Supposed to fire all 4 at about 1700 rpm.
Wondering if I'm only running on 2 cylinders at all times?

Could change out fuel pump but then I'm likely gonna have to take it to a shop.
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