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Old 05-03-2017, 02:32 PM
 
37,315 posts, read 59,888,047 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robino1 View Post
When we were building, if we had questions or wanted something noticed, we talked directly to the manager of the project.

At one point, we noticed a crack in one of the vertical studs. We marked it with a sharpie (we carried one in the car for just this reason) that said 'replace' and circled the crack. It was severe enough that I could bow that board with a gentle push. The next time we visited the site, another board was sistered in. Neither gave at all when pushing on it.

We went out there just about every day. It is our money, ultimately, paying for the house. Once in a while we would catch the manager out there inspecting the job done. At that time, we would ask questions as to what this or that was.

I don't know if that crack would have been noticed or not, I didn't want to take the chance on the 'not'.
Long time ago we live in Houston and friends of ours were buying first home--bought from subdivision developer--can't remember the name--but they lived in apt in the area.
Every day he would drive home from work--go by the build--and walk through...
If he saw something that was sub par--like stud with lot of knotholes--he would just use the hammer and break it...
They started doing better work pretty quickly...

I know that type of "oversight" can get you in trouble in today's litigious world--like criminal trespass--
But it does get someone's attention...
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Old 05-03-2017, 06:33 PM
 
Location: Atlanta, GA
1,209 posts, read 2,250,713 times
Reputation: 886
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrapperL View Post
Looking at the subfloor makes me think this is an upstairs laundry room or over a basement. The pipe in the floor is for a drain pan required by code should the washer malfunction or the washer drain malfunction and it provides drainage to keep the house from flooding.
The hole in the plates, I can't tell for sure if that is a 2x 6 wall or a 2x 8. It's possible that the hole is there as that's where the vent will go for the dryer considering it's where the dryer will sit. Dryer vent hose and piping is usually 4". Measure the opening. If it's 4" prox, it's for the dryer.

I just took this picture, just a day after the first picture. They filled the hole with some orange foamy insulation? or sealant?

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Old 05-03-2017, 06:57 PM
 
10,222 posts, read 19,218,988 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loves2read View Post
Personally I think it is sitting too close to where the w/d set will go to be a drain...
It would be covered up by the machines...but maybe that is the idea---
If there is a pipe/overflow issue with the washer...
Yes, the washer sits in a pan, and the drain is flush with the pan, under the machines.
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Old 05-03-2017, 07:38 PM
 
Location: Atlanta, GA
1,209 posts, read 2,250,713 times
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The house doesn't come with laundry since I didn't get it as an option. Do you think this pan would be included though, or is the hole there, so I can get a pan and drill a hole if I want?
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Old 05-03-2017, 09:38 PM
 
Location: Texas
5,717 posts, read 18,932,190 times
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The dryer vent couldn't be seen in the first pic. The dryer vent is the piping on the far right of your last pic. I wouldn't be real happy with the location. I would strongly suggest that you very quickly measure the width of your washer and dryer to make sure they are going to fit in the room. You'll have to allow another inch for drywall on both sides of the room and an additional 6" for the dryer vent hose that will come from the back of the dryer to alongside of the dryer to connect with the pipe. It's a 4" hose but it also has to make a 90 degree turn and not be crushed, hence the 6". Looks like to me, it ain't gonna fit. This needs to be addressed now. The hole in the bottom plate was an apparent miscut. Maybe for the dryer vent, maybe for the plumbing stack. Hard to say. But I wouldn't waste too much time to make sure that the washer dryer you have is going to fit. We allow 60" for a washer dryer and it's usually a fairly tight fit for full size units with the dryer vent making connection at the rear, not the side. For a side connection you'll need 66" plus the one inch for drywall.
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Old 05-03-2017, 10:31 PM
 
Location: Wasilla, AK
7,448 posts, read 7,592,028 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhtrico1850 View Post
I just took this picture, just a day after the first picture. They filled the hole with some orange foamy insulation? or sealant?
I was thinking it might be an "oops" hole drilled by someone who looked at the plans wrong. I knew it wasn't for an overflow drain, as that would need to be on the floor itself, not in a raised location.
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Old 05-04-2017, 02:10 AM
 
11,025 posts, read 7,845,423 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrapperL View Post
The dryer vent couldn't be seen in the first pic. The dryer vent is the piping on the far right of your last pic. I wouldn't be real happy with the location. I would strongly suggest that you very quickly measure the width of your washer and dryer to make sure they are going to fit in the room. You'll have to allow another inch for drywall on both sides of the room and an additional 6" for the dryer vent hose that will come from the back of the dryer to alongside of the dryer to connect with the pipe. It's a 4" hose but it also has to make a 90 degree turn and not be crushed, hence the 6". Looks like to me, it ain't gonna fit. This needs to be addressed now. The hole in the bottom plate was an apparent miscut. Maybe for the dryer vent, maybe for the plumbing stack. Hard to say. But I wouldn't waste too much time to make sure that the washer dryer you have is going to fit. We allow 60" for a washer dryer and it's usually a fairly tight fit for full size units with the dryer vent making connection at the rear, not the side. For a side connection you'll need 66" plus the one inch for drywall.
I just got a new washer and dryer; both pieces are 27 inches wide. The dryer vent can be routed through the back or either side so the only extra space needed would be a few inches to align a very short flexible hose with the duct in the picture.
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Old 05-04-2017, 08:37 AM
 
Location: Texas
5,717 posts, read 18,932,190 times
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Quote:
I just got a new washer and dryer; both pieces are 27 inches wide
The newer machines are 27" and also smaller. The OP may have older machines that can be as wide as 34" each. They won't fit. Hers may not have a side exit on the dryer either and any future machines she buys may not have it. A side discharge for the dryer vent stack is not a good design especially when the framing says it's suppose to be behind it. The 2x 4 wall that it's currently in is 3 1/2" thick. The vent stack is 4" and sticks into the A/C chase. She'll be paying for a long time to cool that pipe in the summer time because it's in the HVAC chase. Yeah, it's not going to be a lot but it's a cost she'll be having to pay. There's a reason for the wall behind the dryer is framed to a 2x 6 wall- to allow for the piping and the plumbing. They got the plumbing mostly right, the dryer not so much.
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Old 05-04-2017, 09:30 AM
 
Location: Atlanta, GA
1,209 posts, read 2,250,713 times
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The current washer I have leaks occasionally at my apartment, small puddles of water, especially with larger overstuffed loads...

I plan to get a new one, and everything I see (4 stars but base models) is more or less 27 inches wide, dryer and washer.
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Old 05-04-2017, 03:08 PM
 
Location: Johns Creek, GA
17,475 posts, read 66,074,768 times
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Yeah, I'd definitely have the dryer vent moved to the back wall. Side venting- and even with a dryer with side-discharge is just a royal pain in the ass when the flex duct/hard duct needs reconnected/ cleaned- you have to move the washer also. If the duct is at the back wall, you only need to pull out the dryer- much easier-faster!
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