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Old 10-06-2013, 05:39 PM
 
Location: Cold Springs, NV
4,626 posts, read 12,305,175 times
Reputation: 5233

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First, I never did this for trade, but was something I picked up along the way. Once I was found that I could do this though I became the patch guy on the crew.

Gypsum Association document GA-214 provides for 5 levels of drywall finish:

http//:www.lafarge-na.com/GA-214-10e.pdf

Usually, level 1 is provided for utility spaces such as garages like mine. I've chosen a level 5 finish, so it will be smoothwall. Most textures are applied over a level 3 finish, but texture makes more of a mess, and honestly, I'm better at smooth wall. When we bought the home in June of 2011 the second thing I did was demo the drywall off one of the exterior walls to add more electrical receptacles, insulate, framed a soffit, and hung my casework I brought with me. Next phase I did the opposite side for shelving, so the only thing left is the ceiling. I hate ceilings!

Here's the tools you'll need. A stainless 12" pan (mine has rubber glued to the bottom for extra grip), 6", 10", and 12" knives.


I'm using hot mud to speed up the process for the fir the first 2 top coats, and the switch to finish topping for the last 2. The USG hot mud comes from Lowes, and the WestPac from big orange. I'm picky about what I use. In high end you wouldn't want to mix manufacturer due to warranty issues.


I had some bad tape that peeled right off. This means they used the wrong mud when taping. If the right mud is used it should never completely peel away like this. I'd shoot tapers if i caught them putting on tape on Beadex with topping mud.


My plan is to just do a small area from my door opener to the door header.


Tape has been reset.


Next I top coat everything. This is the first skim coat over the tape.



Last edited by MrWillys; 10-06-2013 at 06:09 PM..
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Old 10-06-2013, 05:52 PM
 
Location: Cold Springs, NV
4,626 posts, read 12,305,175 times
Reputation: 5233
And then a skim coat. This is the last coat with hot mud.


Now I opened up the WestPac green dot, and put it in a bucket, and added about 1 quart of water. Got out my drill and paddle and mixed this water in to thin out the topping mud. I covered every bit of hot mud in what's called tight skimming, so none will be left to burn through the paint.


Tomorrow, I'll scuff down the edges, and hopefully putty coat the entire surface.
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Old 10-06-2013, 05:57 PM
 
Location: Cold Springs, NV
4,626 posts, read 12,305,175 times
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I showed the last 3 pictures so you can see how each coat gets progressively larger in size. Always going out over the last edge as it smooths out with each coat. Most people fail to provide the proper amount of coats, and wonder why it doesn't look good after one. On a large project it would take finishers 6 days to do 5 coats, and then sand. For me using hot mud limits the size, but makes it much faster.
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Old 10-06-2013, 06:07 PM
 
8,079 posts, read 10,092,611 times
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It is hard to tell in pictures...and I am not sure the reason for your post...but if I walked into that room, and saw that tape and plaster job, well.......let's just say I wouldn't be going, wow! Or maybe I would....wow.....better put some money in the budget...

There are some really good You Tube videos on how to tape sheet rock. Take a look, and compare what you have, with what they have....

Then, come back and see us.
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Old 10-06-2013, 06:31 PM
 
Location: Cold Springs, NV
4,626 posts, read 12,305,175 times
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Thank you Ted for sharing. My thought was that breaking it down would show how most anyone could make this work in a glass is half full scenario. In education, it is referred to as Lowering the Difficulty of Understanding.
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Old 10-06-2013, 06:44 PM
 
Location: Cold Springs, NV
4,626 posts, read 12,305,175 times
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Here's the exterior wall I tore the drywall off of and refinished after adding electrical, and insulation.


Here's a small portion of the last project I did before I retired. Didn't need a Youtube video for this.
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Old 10-07-2013, 09:15 AM
 
Location: Cold Springs, NV
4,626 posts, read 12,305,175 times
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A level 5 finish is a complete skim coat of the entire drywall surface. This creates a more consistent absorption for the paint to reduce shading sometimes seen when the drywall compounds suck the moisture from the paint faster than the drywall paper surface. At my brothers home in Seattle they painted the drywall prior to applying the spray knockdown texture for similar reasons.

Next, will be to sand, and prime with a flat latex as recommended by the Gypsum Association.



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Old 10-07-2013, 09:35 AM
 
Location: Pittsburgh
6,782 posts, read 9,605,342 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrWillys View Post
Next, will be to sand, and prime with a flat latex as recommended by the Gypsum Association.
You should first check to see what the Latex Association says about what to put underneath their paint.

Anyway, it looks better than my garage's ceiling. I used the little plastic bucket of spackle to seal all the holes where pipes go up into the kitchen. Mice were getting in. I didn't bother to paint since nobody but me and the now frustrated mice really look up there.
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Old 10-08-2013, 06:07 PM
 
Location: Cold Springs, NV
4,626 posts, read 12,305,175 times
Reputation: 5233
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moby Hick View Post
You should first check to see what the Latex Association says about what to put underneath their paint.
I'm pretty sure they would recommend a PVA primer, but I've been successful with the GA's recommendation so far.
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Old 10-08-2013, 06:11 PM
 
Location: Cold Springs, NV
4,626 posts, read 12,305,175 times
Reputation: 5233
Okay, so today I primed with a cheap Home Depot flat latex.



And followed up with a Glidden Professional Lifemaster topcoat in Ivory Fresco.



The real truth is if you have a small area, or patch most anyone can do this if you take the time and do all the coats. I did not sand it perfectly, because it's over 9' high and hard to see. Once done though I will have a nice garage.
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