need 7/8 in drywall....... (flooring, window, installation, room)
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or I need to extend my studs in order to get the walls to match up with the windows. Should I use two layers of drywall or is there some type of 3/8 or 1/4 inch spacer that I can put on the studs??? Thanks.
I had same issue, I ripped some 2*4's into 1/8 thick pieces on the table saw. Two small finishing nails on each piece to hold them in place until the drywall went on. If you have no standing saw probably you're best investment is larger radial arm saw because you can both rip and cross cut with it. I still have my Dad's Craftsman he bougth in '71, I don't use it much becsue I have other saws. If I had to choose one it would be easy choice.
Last edited by thecoalman; 12-03-2011 at 12:23 AM..
If you "need" drywall that is 7/8" thick you should sandwich 1/4" panels and 5/8" panels. That will result in a fully fireproof installation...
I think this will result in a much better finished job than attempting to use 1/4" plywood which tends to have a larger number of voids than thicker plywood. Those voids are fine when trying to use the plywood as underlayment for flooring because construction adhesive will work to hold everything together, but if the voids are in a wall you won't have the same room for fudging...
What brought on the condition to begin with?
Is this an old window that originally had plaster&lath around it? Or, is it a new window that wasn't properly set?
Obviously, if the window wasn't set properly- reset it. But, if it's the former- a restoration project that I was involved in many years ago had a similar situation. We were restoring the original sashes which meant leaving the jambs in place. To correct the indifference so casing would lay flat we used a power planer and finished it up with a belt sander. This process allowed the walls to remain true to the window jamb. I wouldn't necessarily say it was any easier or harder- just more correct for the situation.
Sounds like someone removed an older wall system that left too much space for modern drywall, right?
I concur with the plan to sandwich the two layers of drywall. I'd be interested in which thickness the experts think goes on the outside and whether the first layer even needs to be taped. I would think the latter does not matter, but as to which on the finished side, I'd sure ask experts before doing it. Dry wall is like concrete finishing. A simple task but technique is everything.
or I need to extend my studs in order to get the walls to match up with the windows. Should I use two layers of drywall or is there some type of 3/8 or 1/4 inch spacer that I can put on the studs??? Thanks.
what you probably need is 1/2 or 5/8" in sheetrock...
with two layers of plaster making up the difference...
just like what was done when the house was first built.
Sounds like someone removed an older wall system that left too much space for modern drywall, right?
I concur with the plan to sandwich the two layers of drywall. I'd be interested in which thickness the experts think goes on the outside and whether the first layer even needs to be taped. I would think the latter does not matter, but as to which on the finished side, I'd sure ask experts before doing it. Dry wall is like concrete finishing. A simple task but technique is everything.
Yes, it's a 66 year old house. It looks like it was 3/8 inch drywall with plaster on top. I now have R-13 between the studs.
Two options, two layers of sheetrock, the thinner first to have a strurdier piece at the surface, or use sheet rock shims. Available at any Lumber yard. I always use them to shim crooked studs to get a perfect wall.
Yes, it's a 66 year old house. It looks like it was 3/8 inch drywall with plaster on top. I now have R-13 between the studs.
Nice. Skip the plastic barrier over the R13 if anyone suggests that. Is is SOP in new construction stud walls. But, the wall cavities lead a lot healthier life if they are just allowed to let any moisture absorb into the drywall.
I'm still looking for an answer to which sheet goes on the inside and confirmation that the first layer doesn't have to be taped.
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