Sump Pump Cover/Lid? (how much, dehumidifier, drains, installed)

[MrRational]

Originally Posted by TracySam

So I guess if I can't find anything ready-made or something I can rig up myself, I'll wear a nice outfit, and open up a can of clueless blonde and visit one of these metal-shops!

I don't think you'll find anything ready made. Anywhere.
And as for the clueless blonde? nah.

Just be yourself but have **accurate** dimensions, a photo...
a clear idea of what you want and willingness to listen to their suggestion.

And cash. Don't pay until it's done but let them know it's cash...
and you might even go home with it that day (or the next).

How about some aluminum diamond plate?

[fallingwater]

I did a search for you and was pretty surprised that nothing came up. I have two sump pumps but both are round. I have lids on them. I do not even want to look down into them. I would call some fabricating shops. You can't be the only person ever to need such an item.

[dspguy]

Fashion your own. You could paint the cover :P And also, if you make the holes for the hose and electrical the minimum size necessary, considering caulking the holes and also where the basin meets the cover to "cut down" on creepy crawlies.

I made a sump pump basin and cover out of garbage can. Not the prettiest thing, but beats the hell out of paying $200 for one.

[CyFree]

May I suggest you get a good sump pump container with a pedestal and an air tight sealed lid?
The reason why I suggest it is because it will:
Protect the pets and small children
Keep the pump from clogging with debris
Keep the floating switch from getting jammed by pebbles and small objects that fall into the pit.
Keep the water in the pit from evaporating into the basement.

Some models include a floor drain, to drain water from a plumbing leak for example, and an alarm to let you know if there is a problem with the pump.

So instead of something like this:


You get something like this:

[harry chickpea]

Trivial comment - that is not air-tight. The pump would cave in the lid if it was. Neat installations always make me smile. After ten years, come back, and 90% of the time it'll look like that first install.

[Tracysherm]

Right, I don't think air-tight is a good idea. There have to be holes for water to get in if my basement floods, or what good would it be to even have the pump? Air-tight would only keep the pump nice & dry not to mention create a vacuum if it should turn on. It might even go back in time!

Since no one seems to sell square sump pump lids, I'm doubting I'll ever find a square (cube) sump pump container.

My house is like 70 years old--I wonder of the square holes were more popular in the past? I've never seen another square one, though I really haven't inspected my friends' sump pumps...

The search continues....

[MrRational]

Originally Posted by TracySam

There have to be holes for water to get in if my basement floods, or what good would it be to even have the pump?

hmm.
are there NO drain tiles that lead water into that pit?

[harry chickpea]

There is a very valid reason why manhole covers are round. They can't fall in the hole.

I was waiting, to give other folks a chance and for you to explore.

There are many many ways to solve the problem. I'll provide one, and walk you through the thought process.

There is a 17" x 17" hole in the concrete floor that has a chamfer lip, wider at the top than the bottom.

A lid must be made that:
1. Fits the hole
2. Is removable
3. Can support the weight of an adult
4. has holes in it for the pump outlet pipe, power cord, an entrance of water into the sump, while keeping out things like kitty cats.
5. The budget is less than $100 and that includes any tools required
6. The cover must be neat.
(FWIW, the existing plywood cover does pretty much everything but point 6)

First, a quick mental check of waterproof materials potentially suitable to the task comes up with metal, concrete, treated wood products, plastic or resin products.

Metal means expensive tools and various holes. Ehh, not too good.
Wood is simple to work if you have tools, but longevity is questionable.
Plastic or resin - about the only thing thick enough to support weight is artificial deck boards, but then you are back to the tools problem.
That leaves concrete.

We then know we want to start with a maximum of two 25lb sacks of quick-crete. Any more would make the cover unwieldy to remove. Simple reinforcing should be adequate. Rebar is overkill. Metal coathangers are readily available at low or no cost. That means we need a pair of diagonal cutters or metal shears.

The chamfered opening is a nice idea, but I'm not real comfortable that a lid will stay in place reliably, given the shape. Supports going to the floor of the sump would be nice. What is cheap, waterproof and able to withstand some compression lengthwise? 1" white PVC waterpipe fits the bill. That means we want one length of it and a simple hacksaw or handsaw to cut it to length and some way of keeping the sections in the four corners of the hole. That is pretty easy, but I'll let you figure that one out on your own.

Now, we need a form for our quickcrete. Guesstimating that we want a thickness of 1.5" to 2" to keep the lid lightweight, yet have enough room for our reinforcing, we realize that the form doesn't have to be particularly strong. How large a sheet of cardboard from a cardboard box can we get? We need 17 + 2 x 4 or 25" square at the top. We also need a box knife and that old time favorite - duct tape.

We lightly score a 16" square in the center of the cardboard, then lightly score another 20" square (2" outside the 16" square) then on ONE end of each light score, we continue the score out to the edge of the 25" square piece of cardboard - not at an angle, but right along as an extension of the score line. We cut that from the 16" square to the edge of the cardboard.

Folding the cardboard to the side away from the scores, we form now an open box with tabs. Fold the upright sides along the outer score, so we have 2" more or less vertical sides of double thickness. We finesse (fancy word for mess around with) the corners until the top corners make a wider opening that is about 17" x 17", then duct tape them into position and duct tape the folded cardboard to make it rigid. That makes a nice form, but it'll fall apart from the moisture in the concrete mix.

Hmmm - big garbage bag. Cut and line the form, duct tape the edges to the outside of the box. Waterproof.

Holes. We need some holes. We could use sections of the pvc pipe upright in the form. That could work for the power cord (test to make sure the plug fits through) and for the drain hole into the box, but what about the big pipe from the pump to the outside? Use a can opener, take the lid off a soft drink can. Fill it with sand. Voila - instant hole form. Coat the hole forms with butter or grease if you want to remove them from you finished lid.

Reinforcing. Cut coat hangers and bend straight or however. At the ends of those 17" lengths, bend little right angles to make 1" legs to hold them off the bottom of the garbage bag lined cardboard form box. (That means each one will have a 15" length plus two 1" legs.) Use twisty ties to form them into a rough grid pattern. A 2" grid pattern would be nice, but it isn't critical. At one side of the grid, form a lifting handle out of four or five strands of the coat hanger wire twisted together and hook the handle into the grid but standing up about 4 inches. (above what the finish level of the concrete will be.)

Once you are sure all the hole forms are in the right place, and the form is resting on a solid level surface, and the sides are strong enough that they won't bow out, mix the quickcrete in another garbage bag lined cardboard box. Pour it into the form and push it around to go into the corners and crannies. Once done, and before that mix sets, mix the second bag and pour it as needed over the reinforcing wires. Smooth it to a nice smooth surface with a straight cut bit of cardboard. Let it sit in the shade for a couple of days, then flip it out of the form and remove the can and pipes.

You now have a custom reinforced concrete sump cover that will fit the hole as exactly as you have measured. Trim those vertical PVC pipe support so they just contact the bottom of the cover and help support it.


See the process? Define the problem and visualize the end product - select the material - explore the method of construction - arrange it more or less chronologically - tabulate your bill of materials from the steps you have listed. A project like this should take less than an afternoon if you are organized.

[Tracysherm]

Wow! Thanks Harry. You gave this a lot of thought. I've never worked with cement before, but I'll look into it.

Too bad you aren't in my geographic area: I'd gladly pay you to do this!

[harry chickpea]

I did it in large part because it is a teaching tool of a thought process. A lot of people just don't know how to start when confronted with a problem. What I showed was a simplified method of systems analysis, which is how a lot of the better computer programs get made. If this is your first time working with these materials like this, your first effort may be little more than a learning experience, so that you can go back and do it again with the hands-on knowledge you gain. If you do try it, the mix of the cement and proper curing are critical to the strength. Follow directions on the bags, and if you do add more water, it really needs to be an absolute minimum of the recommended amount. Curing the cement under a damp cloth is good too. Use nitrile gloves. Wet concrete will suck the oils out of your skin.