HK 45 and FNP 45 reloading help (pistol, range, load, cost)

[46Barb]

OK, my husband reloads 45 acp with 185 gr Nosler JHP bullets and tried 4.3 to 4.8 grains of Hodgdon Clays powder.

So far he has had no luck with reloading for the HK45 and FNP45. The casing don't eject. He's tried lighter to heavier loads almost to the max with no luck.

He does not want to reload lead bullets.

Has anyone had success with reloading for these 2 polymer guns?

If you have had success, what powder, how many grains, what bullet did you use?

Thanks

[jimboburnsy]

Originally Posted by 46Barb

OK, my husband reloads 45 acp with 185 gr Nosler JHP bullets and tried 4.3 to 4.8 grains of Hodgdon Clays powder.

So far he has had no luck with reloading for the HK45 and FNP45. The casing don't eject. He's tried lighter to heavier loads almost to the max with no luck.

He does not want to reload lead bullets.

Has anyone had success with reloading for these 2 polymer guns?

If you have had success, what powder, how many grains, what bullet did you use?

Thanks

Is this a stovepipe malfunction or are you saying that the casing is not being extracted?

[jdavid93225]

I don't have either of those guns, so can't speak from experience about them, but I would suggest he check the sizing die and case dimensions carefully to make sure they're within specs. Have him make sure to check the cases before loading and the cartridges after loading to make sure they're correct.

Another thought is the type of crimp he's putting on the bullet. I imagine the dies he's using provide the proper type of crimp, but it's worth checking just in case. For this type of cartridge, he would need a taper crimp, which leaves a small lip on the case mouth for headspacing. If the bullet he's using has a cannelure (crimping groove), it may not work properly. Cannelures are intended for use with a roll crimp, not a taper crimp, and are not recommended for use in this application.

I have no idea if either of these would be the cause of his problem, but they are certainly worth looking into, if for no other reason, than to rule them out as the cause.

[46Barb]

The casing is not being extracted. When my husband shoots it, the casing only partially comes out and gets stuck. He has to pull back on the slide after every round to take the casing out. This never happens with factory ammo.

[jimboburnsy]

Originally Posted by 46Barb

The casing is not being extracted. When my husband shoots it, the casing only partially comes out and gets stuck. He has to pull back on the slide after every round to take the casing out. This never happens with factory ammo.

What I mean by "stovepipe" is that the recoil is not enough to push the slide to the depth required for optimal operation. The slide short strokes and closes too quickly, causing a casing to get stuck sideways in the ejection port. It looks something like a stovepipe on a roof, hence "stovepipe malfunction".

What I mean by the casing not being extracted is that the empty casing is not getting pulled completely out of the chamber.

It sounds like you're describing the former but I'm not sure, can you clarify?

When he shoots factory ammo is it generally 230 grain FMJ?

[46Barb]

Yes, the casing is getting stuck in the ejection port. He doesn't limp wrist. never had problems with his 1911's, only with these polymers.

factory ammo is 230 gr fmj and works great; it's only the reloads giving a problem

[ferretkona]

I find most pistols very picky on ammo, to the point of only firing factory ammo. The 45acp and 9mm can not be hot loaded and I find a carbide die set is mandatory.
You may need to tumble polish the rounds as well. Reloading with cast bullets can reduce the cost a lot, just have to clean them out real well afterwards. With cast bullets much less powder is needed.

[jimboburnsy]

Originally Posted by 46Barb

Yes, the casing is getting stuck in the ejection port. He doesn't limp wrist. never had problems with his 1911's, only with these polymers.

factory ammo is 230 gr fmj and works great; it's only the reloads giving a problem

Those 185 gr Noslers may be dedicated 1911 bullets then. He may want to try some 230 gr. JHPs. If that doesn't work, he may be able to convince me to do him a favor and buy those damned polymers at a considerable discount.

He may also try a little slower powder than Clays.

[46Barb]

Thanks all. He decided to buy some 230 gr jhp-rn and buying some Unique powder today to try it out. I just have to adjust the oal because the round nose are longer than the regular jhp.

jimboburnsy, I don't think he will be parting with those darn polymers unless this doesn't work. I do know he's trying to sell a brand new bulk box of those noslers if you're interest.

[M3 Mitch]

Originally Posted by jimboburnsy

Those 185 gr Noslers may be dedicated 1911 bullets then. He may want to try some 230 gr. JHPs. If that doesn't work, he may be able to convince me to do him a favor and buy those damned polymers at a considerable discount.

He may also try a little slower powder than Clays.

I think Jimbo is onto the right answer - apparently the handloads are not generating enough recoil impulse to operate the slide fully. A heavier bullet, and/or a heavier charge of (slower burning) powder may help.

If you can set up to load at the range, a good way to work up a load in an automatic pistol is to increase the powder charge (not to exceed maximum) and load one round at a time, when your powder charge is just adequate that the slide locks open after every round, you have a "perfect" charge in terms of operating the slide - enough recoil to work it, but no excess to batter the mechanism.