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We have a Dillon Square Deal B press set up for 45 acp.
Presently, we reload Nozzler 185 grain JHP.
If we were to use semi-wadcutters, do we have to make changes to the length, crimp, etc.?
Also, what's a good bullet comparable to the Nozzler. My husband is looking for accuracy at 25 and 50 yards. What would you suggest? He doesn't like to use lead.
We have a Dillon Square Deal B press set up for 45 acp.
Presently, we reload Nozzler 185 grain JHP.
If we were to use semi-wadcutters, do we have to make changes to the length, crimp, etc.?
Also, what's a good bullet comparable to the Nozzler. My husband is looking for accuracy at 25 and 50 yards. What would you suggest? He doesn't like to use lead.
The best way to check the seating depth/overall cartridge length is to consult the reloading manual for that bullet weight and type.
I know Hornady makes very good 45 ACP bullets of different types and weights, I use the 200-grain hollow-points for my Model 1911 in that caliber and I get excellent accuracy using Accurate Arms Number 5 powder, and Winchester Large Pistol primers. I don't have the powder weight for that load, but I'm sure it's in the reloading manual.
.45 ACP gets a taper crimp if it gets any crimp, basically you will just have to adjust seating depth (and of course powder charge).
The H&G 68 cast 200 grain bullet is about the most popular, (realizing you said you didn't want to go there) and I have used it with IIRC 3.5 grains of Bullseye powder for a "softball" load in the Gold Cup.
Adjusting seating depth is typically just to get the bullet a few thousandths off the start of the rifling lede. You may want to do that with just the barrel of the pistol in your hand, seat the bullet partially, try it in the barrel, push the bullet into the case in small increments till it chambers fully and easily.
Not sure why you would not want to use a cast lead bullet, you can buy them in bulk if you don't want to make your own. The .45 ACP is a great cast bullet round.
If you can shoot well enough that the bulk pack cast bullets don't let you reach your potential score, you are good indeed.
Full wad cutters, or semi wad cutters? Not that many 45's will feed flat faced wad cutters well. Newer 45's don't seem to want to feed anything not well rounded with out the chamber face relived which is tricky.
I have a WW-2 vintage Remington Rand with a Viet Nam Colt barrel in it I think, which eats about any old fodder, but my Kimber sure won't.
Car wheel weights are antimony and casting these are the way i go for casting modern ammo's, and i use real lead for casting round ball for my flinters.
Buying .600 and .735 rb is cost prohibitive..
I would refrain from crimping, but size the cases instead. Only crip if you find slugs coming loose in the mags..
Casting either metal, air should be moving away from the one casting, and be sure not one drop of water can enter the pot. I had one accident once. One drop of water formed on the point of a nail way up high in a barn I was casting in and that drop of water emptied the pot Right Now. Fortunately for me i had just been called to the phone. That didn't stop me from casting, I just look up now.
Actually, don't crimp a .45ACP in the conventional sense at all. The .45ACP "headspaces" on it's forward cartridge mouth edge, so if you roll-crimp it, the round may very well sort of fall in to the chanber a tiny bit, to the point that it won't support the correct length-ways positioning of the round, and the round may not fire.
So: in order (ahna one, ahna two...):
1: check the exact length of your fired or new cartridges. Maybe send them all through the cartridge length-sizing lathe. Remember; you only have to do this onetime to assure perfect cartridge lengths. BUT: Do NOT under-size them length-wise!!
2. load your chosen bullet as per other's advice here, just off the rifling is often best for target work, but remember; the .45ACP is primarily a battle cartridge, and should be free to chamber in your gun without too tight a fit. Tight fit + heat + soot = jams. Ooops!
3. Taper-crimp (i.e.: this type of crimp sort of squeezes the front 1/8" end of the brass down without rolling it into any bullet grooves. A nice tight fit is all you want.) Only about $10 here:
Truthfully Barb, the .45 ACP and cast bullets go together like cold beer and hot chicken wings. I have had my best accuracy results in the ACP with hard cast. Specifically a 200 gr SWC over faster powders like W231 and Bullseye. Seating depth will always vary a few .000ths twixt different bullets, and jacketed to cast powder charges vary a bunch. My favorite jaceted acurracy bullet is the Sierra 200 gr FPJ. I also use this in the .45 Colt. When you get to your local shooters shack, get every manual you can find, as funds allow. One can never have to much reference material when it comes to reloading.
Thanks NVplumber. Do you buy your cast bullets? If yes, what brand?
Yes, I buy them in bulk from a local plant in Carson City. Xtreme Bullets. Laser Cast out of Oregon is a good make too. I've been hearing good things about Montana Bullets as well, though I have never shot them myself. As much as I put downrange (or did before the primer crunch anyway) shooting jacketed, exclusively, is cost prohibitave. I do use them for my warmer stuff, for my Marlin 94 mainly. I pump them up a touch for spanking yotes and feral dogs, and the aforementione Sierra or the Hornady XTP are my top picks for this application.
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