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Just wondering if anyone's done a test to see which one is best? I've heard the slotted and drilled are better than the standards in terms of stopping. But what about slotted vs. drilled?
the following opinion not based on tests: i'd think slotted would dissapate heat quicker, by virtue of the design. With the disc in motion, air should flow thru better then standard drilled holes. Again just an opinion.
Interesting question though
I have. And my experience is unique to me. But I've found that the true stopping performance benefit will only be realized on a lighter car - like a Porsche or a Honda or something like that. The weight of the car seriously influences the effectiveness of those. I had those on my black Sebring which was about as heavy a car as you can get, and I found they weren't worth much more than the regular rotors. Heat dissipation is a given, but again, not to such a degree that the cost is justified.
On newer non-sport cars I find them to be useless compared to regular rotors and some good ceramics.
Normally they're sold slotted and drilled. I've never seen rotors that were slotted without being drilled. If you have, I would say you're probably not going to get much benefit from them. Same with the drilled and no slots.
I have. And my experience is unique to me. But I've found that the true stopping performance benefit will only be realized on a lighter car - like a Porsche or a Honda or something like that. The weight of the car seriously influences the effectiveness of those. I had those on my black Sebring which was about as heavy a car as you can get, and I found they weren't worth much more than the regular rotors. Heat dissipation is a given, but again, not to such a degree that the cost is justified.
On newer non-sport cars I find them to be useless compared to regular rotors and some good ceramics.
Normally they're sold slotted and drilled. I've never seen rotors that were slotted without being drilled. If you have, I would say you're probably not going to get much benefit from them. Same with the drilled and no slots.
interesting info. I'd wonder if actual wheel design ( for potential air flow ) and rolling mass has any importance as well
Just wondering if anyone's done a test to see which one is best? I've heard the slotted and drilled are better than the standards in terms of stopping. But what about slotted vs. drilled?
Slotted & drilled are designed to stay cooler during extreme braking.
Are they worth the extra money, for a daily driver? I don't think so. But that's just my personal opinion.
Slotted & drilled are designed to stay cooler during extreme braking.
Are they worth the extra money, for a daily driver? I don't think so. But that's just my personal opinion.
Slotted/drilled rotors are designed to cool more effectively, not stop you any sooner. The benefit is that by staying cooler, they contribute less to heating the brake fluid and that is where brake force gets diminished - as it heats up it can cook, boil and loose its effectiveness. Basically, if you are hot lapping on a track and your brakes over heat, it takes longer and longer for the brakes to stop you because the fluid is less effective. If the fluid gets too hot, no more brakes.
For street use, slotted/drilled rotors are mostly for looks and they are more prone to cracking than a standard rotor.
Sayantsi makes an important point. Slotting/drilling rotors is done to shed heat faster - all for the purpose of reducing brake fade.
In ordinary street use - fade simply isn't an issue. A single stop from 60 MPH or 80 MPH will not change materially with slotted or drilled rotors.
You take the car to the track and brake while running laps - then fade becomes an issue.
I'm not sure though that the rotor makes a big difference in brake fluid temperature. The effectiveness of the brake pad itself changes with temperature and I think this affects brake fade more than anything.
Sayantsi makes an important point. Slotting/drilling rotors is done to shed heat faster - all for the purpose of reducing brake fade.
In ordinary street use - fade simply isn't an issue. A single stop from 60 MPH or 80 MPH will not change materially with slotted or drilled rotors.
You take the car to the track and brake while running laps - then fade becomes an issue.
I'm not sure though that the rotor makes a big difference in brake fluid temperature. The effectiveness of the brake pad itself changes with temperature and I think this affects brake fade more than anything.
Right. And the same principle applies to some of the top-end ceramic brake pads. They're just not necessary for your everyday driver.
I'd rather cook 'em and have to take a brake bake break than crack 'em.
I suppose if you were on the track for fame and money or can afford to buy a car that has a serious OEM brake system (like the ceramic upgrade on the Porsches, etc) that you might want them.
i could see a possible advantage of having vented discs on a truck that pulls trailers frequently--especially in hilly terrain. Dropping a gear or two only does so much when heading down the mountain, so to speak
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