Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
Duralube is a chlorinated naphthalene. It works just like putting bleach on your hands- they'll get extremely slick. What the CNs will do is break down the fats in your hands and there's the slick. It works in your oil the same way by breaking down the fats that are in our motor oils. The downside. It has a tendency to cook off via the combustion chamber. The results of it's burning in our combustion chambers is hydrochloric acid. It will overwhelm the base materials in the oils designed to neutralize common combustion acids. It will cause MAJOR corrosion in your engine. I'm not sure I'd even put this crap in a beater engine. Life will be short. FWIW, you can add Slick 50 and Prolong to the list of snake oils that use this "technology". If you think it has benefits, you can throw a cup of Clorox in the oil and get the same results.....at YOUR own peril.
Quote:
Changing it every year is just flushing $100s of dollars down the toilet each time.
Not necessarily. You're assuming the that the owner doing the change is using long life anti-freeze. He might be using anti-freeze that only lasts a year. It's out there and is the bulk of sales. NEVER let anti-freeze stay in the system more than 5 years regardless of mileage. The formulation has acid neutralizing agents that will be worthless by year 5. You're flirting with holes in the radiator from acid build up from the anti-freeze. Corrosion will set in and you'll have an expensive mess to fix. Flush and refill ever 5 years using a quality long life anti-freeze designed for your system.
Unless you're just into screwing up your engine, NEVER put a flush in the oil, EVER. These flushes work by stripping lubrication- that's how they work. Might as well run the engine with no oil or like one moron that I'm aware of. He had a relatively new Ram hemi and decided it needed a flush. He got advice from the internet and followed their instructions to the letter. He destroyed his engine. The flush......he used a small bottle of Dawn and 4 quarts of water. While you might laugh, there's not a lot of difference between the Dawn and bottles of flush. Both strip lubrication. If you think the engine needs a cleaning out, synthetic oil won't do it. Back when you could buy a GP IV based oil, it had more solvency than a conventional oil. But there aren't anymore GP IV oils unless you want to get into boutique oils that cost 12-15 bucks a qt. You can get a great cleaning using any HDEO motor oil. An HDEO would be like Rotella, Delo, or DelVac. You would want to use a 10w-30 or the 15w-40 and skip the other viscosities like a 5w-40. Primarily though, no engine really needs a flush. If the engine has been neglected, use a quality oil like Pennzoil Yellow Bottle, and change every 3000 miles for the next 3 changes. It will slowly clean the internals and you won't have chunks floating around in the engine doing damage like a flush would do. And NEVER put the likes of Seafoam in the oil. It's 15% IPA. IPA stands for IsoPropyl Alcohol. Alcohol will damage and destroy seals and do it in a hurry. Yet another snake oil additive that needs to go away.
My understanding is that in regular detergent motor oil, the detergents and the extreme pressure additives compete for "space" on the metal. This is part of the reason true race oils don't have detergents.
Duralube is a chlorinated naphthalene. It works just like putting bleach on your hands- they'll get extremely slick. What the CNs will do is break down the fats in your hands and there's the slick. It works in your oil the same way by breaking down the fats that are in our motor oils. The downside. It has a tendency to cook off via the combustion chamber. The results of it's burning in our combustion chambers is hydrochloric acid. It will overwhelm the base materials in the oils designed to neutralize common combustion acids. It will cause MAJOR corrosion in your engine. I'm not sure I'd even put this crap in a beater engine. Life will be short. FWIW, you can add Slick 50 and Prolong to the list of snake oils that use this "technology". If you think it has benefits, you can throw a cup of Clorox in the oil and get the same results.....at YOUR own peril.
Not necessarily. You're assuming the that the owner doing the change is using long life anti-freeze. He might be using anti-freeze that only lasts a year. It's out there and is the bulk of sales. NEVER let anti-freeze stay in the system more than 5 years regardless of mileage. The formulation has acid neutralizing agents that will be worthless by year 5. You're flirting with holes in the radiator from acid build up from the anti-freeze. Corrosion will set in and you'll have an expensive mess to fix. Flush and refill ever 5 years using a quality long life anti-freeze designed for your system.
Yeah, most oil-additives contain a base-stock of 80 to 90 percent motor-oil....the rest is the
additive-package. Almost all oil-additives will not void manufacturer's-warranty.......I doubt this would be the case if the oil-additive in question caused a significant, rapid decline in engine health. I have used
oil-additives, including Duralube, for a long time, and have noticed no problems from the usage of these products.
You do not mix regular engine oil and Synthetic oil together. It is like mixing water and oil together. Had a customer loan his car to a friend. Nice friend was told at a gas station that the engine was a qt low. Nice friend said, "put a qt in for me". Customer ended up needing a rebuilt motor. Stefhen
It is not advisable to mix synthetic and conventional, but perfectly fine in any kind of emergency situation.
If the engine was damaged then it was probably because it was not one quart low but actually nearly out of oil.
It is always better to drive with the wrong oil or a mix of wrong oils for however long it takes to get to where you can service the car or have it serviced.
It is not advisable to mix synthetic and conventional,
That's an old myth that will never die. Back when the Gp IV bases were popular, they used a conventional oil as a binder as the Gp IV synthetic base oils did nothing for the additive package. The conventional base oils, primarily a Gp I was used to bind the two together otherwise, wear was severe. Today, there are pretty much no Gp IV based oils around due to cost. Most of the synthetic oils today are yesterdays conventionals. Only the Gp I base oils are a conventional. The rest are eligible to be called a synthetic as they do not appear in nature and are, in fact, a man made product.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
