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There is reason of any sort to justify destroying the life of an engine with engine flush thru the oil system. The damage it does to bearings, it really should be illegal to screw people like that.
Engine flush treatment for me decades ago was to substitute 1 qt of auto tranny fluid for a qt of oil when doing a change. This kept the hydraulic lifters clean and loosened up any potential sludge in the crankcase...then again I always changed oil and filter every 1000 miles. Overkill yes...but I never had any engine problems during the time period of owning the car. Cheapest expense on any car is the regular tuneups and OIL changes.
This all came from a mechanic dad who was wise and experienced from the old school.
Bought a new Mercury a few years back and got "free lifetime oil changes". Now I've been doing all my own work on my cars for over 40 years but figured "hey, that's one less car I have to crawl under to do an oil change" so I would bring it to the dealer for the freebie. After 2 years he started with the "YOU NEED AN ENGINE FLUSH" routine. The first couple of times I declined. When he asked me during a subsequent visit, I asked him to show me on the Mercury service chart where Mercury recommends an engine flush. I said if Mercury recommends it, I'll get it done (I already knew it was not on the service chart). His reply was along the lines of "well they don't put it on the service chart but they know that it should be done" My reply was if I got my oil changed according the manufacturers service schedule, and the dealer was using "RECOMMENDED" oil and filters. I should never have a sludge problem. Hw had no answer for me and I went ahead and called him a thief and never stepped foot in the dealership again.
You do not mix regular engine oil and Synthetic oil together. It is like mixing water and oil together. Had a customer loan his car to a friend. Nice friend was told at a gas station that the engine was a qt low. Nice friend said, "put a qt in for me". Customer ended up needing a rebuilt motor. Stefhen
Have been doing it for years as a tech without any problems! http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...entionals.aspx
If you want to clean sludge out, just switch to a full synthetic!
A motor "flush" is a halfassed last resort effort for a used car lot.lol
The specifications referred to in these classifications generally have to do with oxidation protection, high temperature engine deposits, foaming, acid formation, sludge control and rust and corrosion protection.
Used to be when oil had zinc they also were rated on anti-friction properties. With the e.p.a. bs that is not the case anymore. Most new oils are harmful to older style engines with flat tappet type cams because of e.p.a. requirements that has removed the high friction lubing properties.
I wouldn't do it, they're generally just a rip off to get your money. You're better off buying Seafoam at your local auto parts store. Another option is next time you need to change your oil, drain a quart and a half to 2 quarts of it out, then replace what you drained out with automatic transmission fluid. Run it for a little while, drive it around the block a few times, then change your oil as regular. Does a pretty decent job cleaning out your motor.
You do not mix regular engine oil and Synthetic oil together. It is like mixing water and oil together. Had a customer loan his car to a friend. Nice friend was told at a gas station that the engine was a qt low. Nice friend said, "put a qt in for me". Customer ended up needing a rebuilt motor. Stefhen
Please explain why this would be. I respect you as the mechanic you claim to be, but I have topped off an engine with regular dino oil that had synthetic in it. I never had any issues.
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