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You do not mix regular engine oil and Synthetic oil together. It is like mixing water and oil together. Had a customer loan his car to a friend. Nice friend was told at a gas station that the engine was a qt low. Nice friend said, "put a qt in for me". Customer ended up needing a rebuilt motor. Stefhen
Taking your car to Jiffly Lube, it will only be a short time until they forget to put oil in your engine and have to buy you a new one anyway, haha just playing.
Actually, i agree with you.
Jiffy Lube has a very bad reputation for stupid mistakes like that. I remember watching this documentary on TV once about it. It might be on youtube or something.
I'll never take any of my vehicles to places in which a bunch of frustrated 15y/o kids work miserably for minimum wage.
Engine flush has nothing to do with the oil...it your cooling system!! Yes you should, I do mine every fall then put fresh antifreeze in!!
Sorry, but this is wrong. What they are selling the orignal poster is not a coolant flush & fill, but an "engine flush" product that they say cleans out the gunk and junk in the engine. They pour it into an empty crankcase and run the engine for a couple minutes, drain it and refill the crankcase with oil.
First thing I would do is stop going to fast food oil change places and find either a good independant mechanic or your local dealership.
You do not mix regular engine oil and Synthetic oil together. It is like mixing water and oil together. Had a customer loan his car to a friend. Nice friend was told at a gas station that the engine was a qt low. Nice friend said, "put a qt in for me". Customer ended up needing a rebuilt motor. Stefhen
...WHAT??? What do you think synthetic blends sold right off the shelf are made up of? If you pick up any bottle of synthetic oil it says right on it "compatible with all synthetic and standard oils". Unless you are talking about a high-performance engine that needs to keep the heat down via synthetic oil, the only thing you need worry about is matching the weight of the oil.
Jiffy Lube has a very bad reputation for stupid mistakes like that. I remember watching this documentary on TV once about it. It might be on youtube or something.
I'll never take any of my vehicles to places in which a bunch of frustrated 15y/o kids work miserably for minimum wage.
There is a local dentist who got the first oil change on his brand new Mazdaspeed 6 done at Sears. The, er, "tech" did not remove the old rubber gasket from the filter housing but he did place on a new one. So with a doubled up gasket there was of course a bad seal, causing the oil to drain out in short order and soon enough the car was flatbedded to the dealership with a blown engine.
A friend of mine at the Mazda dealer said the dealership's cost of the engine was $16K. Don't know what the markup is nor the labor cost. Sears paid it, but good luck getting this done without a fight; even if it is the quickie-lube's fault they'll fight a bill like that tooth and nail.
If your vehicle has been properly maintained over the years, there should be no need for any kind of flushing, engine, cooling system or transmission unless the factory recommends it at certain service intervals. Check your vehicle's maintenance manual to confirm.
Unless you are talking about a high-performance engine that needs to keep the heat down via synthetic oil, the only thing you need worry about is matching the weight of the oil.
I'd add checking for the proper API service rating to your statement too. Such as "SM", "SL" or "SJ" for gasoline engines.
The specifications referred to in these classifications generally have to do with oxidation protection, high temperature engine deposits, foaming, acid formation, sludge control and rust and corrosion protection.
Engine flush....you can buy that stuff at most any auto parts store.....all it is is diesel fuel, you add it to your engine oil and run it for 5 minutes (NOT UNDER LOAD) before you drain the oil, it is supposed to clean all the sludge out of the engine....though I have tried it I don't think it really works as well as they say it does....it does thin the oil out quite a bit though. Not really recommended on a turbocharged engine.
Quick note: Only use diesel in you oil to extract moisture! I have used it to clean out sludge with catostophic failure. It thins out the oil to much and even at an idle I had metal to metal contact on my bearing surfaces not a pretty picture. Try this instead put a quart of tranny fluid in your motor its got a very high detergent content and some viscosity run it for about a week before your sceduled oil change. It really works well with min chance of doing any damage.
I would recommend against the Jiffy Lube flush, it should not be needed and has more chance to do harm than good IMHO.
As a matter of fact, I don't recommend using any "quickie lube" joint for anything at all. Best bet is DIY. If you can't or just won't, find a good independent shop, cultivate a relationship with them, take your car there, where a real tech, as opposed to a hyperactive pimple-faced kid, will check your ride out with a knowledgable eye, rather than strip your drain plug, overfill/underfill with wrong grade of oil, using whatever they got cheap last time, etc.
If you can't/won't DIY oil change, you need this guy/gal on your side.
There is a difference in oils and in filters. Some synthetics are compatible with conventional oils, a few are not. Particularly on the filter, you should get something like a Pure1, they do a better job filtering than the cheapest filters (like you get at "stupid-lube")
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What they are selling the orignal poster is not a coolant flush & fill, but an "engine flush" product that they say cleans out the gunk and junk in the engine. They pour it into an empty crankcase and run the engine for a couple minutes, drain it and refill the crankcase with oil.
