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Down to 250.00 on the tamron macro and no takers. At this point we may just keep it to use when we don't want to take our new stuff.
We are planning on photographing harlem in a few weeks so i can take my old d300 ,a 35mm nikon f1.8 and the tamron and get pretty decent coverage.
I think I see your listing. You might be competing with another auction style listing that is just under $200 at this time, with three days to go. Another issue may be that many are waiting to see the new Tamron 90mm prices to settle. Even for Nikon 105mm micro, there are only a couple of listings with bids at over $300 (both happen to be for the latest model which is a much pricier lens). It just may be that the market currently is soft.
But ultimately, Tamron 90/180 and Sigma 70/105/150 are excellent examples of lenses that will deliver for less.
Yeah, these older cameras seem to find buyers. I've been keeping an eye on some 1960s Minolta lenses (58mm f/1.2 is one of them) and just saw a 45 year old 100mm f/2 go for $400 on an auction site... a discount compared to $600+ it usually goes on ebay. The AF version, built in 1985 or later goes for almost $1K. At that point, I would rather look into Sony-Zeiss 85mm f/1.4 but people do look for oldies. In fact, I also see Minolta X-700 bodies holding some value to many. Usually, many GASoholics like me look into these oldies primarily for their lenses. But I occasionally find a bidding war on these bodies with rather ordinary lenses (so it can't be the lenses they're looking for).
At $245, if I didn't have to worry about being able to use the Tamron 90 on my SLT but only on NEX, I would snatch it away from you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mathjak107
The old 105MM is about 450-500 used the 105mm VR is about 700 used
Older (f/2.8) 105 micros are available for less than $300 or less on ebay (23 bids on one at $274, with 15 hours to go). There's a buy-it-now for $320.
Personally, I'm watching auction sites to see if a Minolta 200mm f/4 APO Macro shows up. Unfortunately, any time it has... it fetches over $2K. Those are the rare occasions when I would consider going bonkers on camera gear.
things always take a twist, thats what keeps us all guessing whats next.
I guess based on the point of the original post I was expecting the thread to take a different turn. Since your original point was that gear isn't as important as skill, I was expecting some descriptions and discussions on how you've spent time/money on improving your skills rather than upgrading gear. But all the talk has turned to buying and selling gear.
there are enough threads i posted already with how i improved my skills . i think i posted everything at one point or another from how to use flash in macro to using histograms , how to get more dynamic range etc and more.
the thread was not really meant to be a how to as much as dispelling the idea many amateurs have that if they had a more expensive camera there pictures would just be better.
my point is i can post an endless amount of photos from both cameras and you would be hard pressed to know which was the more expensive one by a wide margin.
There again you are right about being hard pressed to tell on our monitors. But and it is a big but on a large format printer then the goats can be separated from the sheep. Glass quality, pixel quality and quantity, and techniques such as hand held or tripod with mirror lock and remote release and the difference will show big time. I just printed two images from the same shot. One 11x17 and one 17x25 from a lowly 8.3 mp 9+ year old body with a 9+ year old 70-200 2.8L lens. Shot in raw I can print it to 24x36 and it is maxed. Now with that D800 that you use if numbers correlate then it should turn out gallery prints for large spaces at 48x72 with a little room for cropping. Being a regular visitor to a studio of a photographer whose prints normally start at about 32x52 and up to 6'x16' you can see my interest in both quality and quantity of pixels. When pushed to the max using simple math a D7100 cannot achieve the results of a D800 with all else being equal. A real oranges to oranges test will show it. To bad that there is no way to demonstrate that on the internet but only in the gallery.
You really have to go big to see the difference. We have done typically up to 16x20 and my wife and i scratch our heads as to who took the photo and with what gear.
Differences are more likely to show under extreme conditions. For normal usage, it really boils down to capabilities and what the camera will allow. Even between my entry level APS-C (NEX-3) and mid-level APS-C (A55), the primary difference is in A55 allowing more options, including full time super fast AF/tracking, with 10 FPS. My NEX-3 is AF speed limited (relatively speaking, although I use it more as a manual focus camera) and at 3 FPS... tracking/AF speed is nothing to brag about unless I turn it into an SLT (and use A-mount lenses on it).
The real difference maker might be: Glass. Even with same glass, one could argue both crop sensor (less expensive) and full frame (more expensive) bodies have advantages, and disadvantages. For example, a larger aperture lens really struggles on a more demanding FF image circle with heavy vignetting. The smaller image circle helps overcome most of it. Also, crop factor enables a greater optical reach. On the other hand, FF does better at wider angles.
16x20 though for me is small. 24x36 has been my most popular prints for fast action posters. That is what the 1D Mark II excels at. 8.5 of them a second at that. Before the 1D MII was the 10D at 6+ MP and I very carefully tweaked 24x36 Harley posters out of that. I currently see a need for both the D7100 and D800 for different venues. If Canon doesn't get on the ball and produce similar I will buy both to maximize the usage of the Epson 7900.
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