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The color depth was really just a personal decision. One used a more vivid nikon picture control profile but i could have set them the same .
most manufacturers today are standardizing on selectable profiles that maintain their look from camera model to camera model..
it is a great idea since a back up camera which is a different nikon model can look identical to the main camera if the same picture control profiles are picked.
i use vivid alot on the d800 and standard on the d7000. my wife uses the d7000 and likes a more subdued look than i do. i have really toned my colors down from what they were a few years ago. they were kind of like a bad acid trip from the 70's lol
Past the post processing effects, as well as the renderings of the lenses themselves, "color depth" really comes into play at higher ISO. It is one reason I've started to see "ISO" differently. Any time I come across a situation where I feel the need to boost the ISO, I ask first: can I get away with couple of stops lower?
Mathjak may be able to try this (Nikon D7000 uses the same sensor as Sony A580, A55 and NEX-5N, revised version used in A57, NEX-5R and NEX-6), testing "iso-less" shooting. In manual mode w/RAW, shoot with the same exposure (aperture and shutter) at ISO 200 and again at ISO 3200 under indoor lighting conditions. Then, bump up the exposure for case #1 (ISO 200) by 4-stops.
Chances are, the issue of color depth (and dynamic range, especially if the scene involves a bit of contrast with highlights), will show up. The color at 3200 will be off by a bit (and if there is harsh highlight situation, chances of it getting blown at 3200 will be greater).
However, going back to the OP, the advantage of going FF from APS-C may be only incremental. The majority of cost really comes from lenses and their capabilities.
FF will typically provide a 1-stop advantage in noise performance over APS-C. A slower zoom will inevitably force use of higher ISO, and one of the reasons I have begun to favor faster (prime) lenses, especially in 35mm to 135mm range where price, size, weight are within reason for f/1.8-2 options which can quickly help drop the need for higher ISO.
In the past, I have contemplated getting Sony Zeiss 135mm f/1.8 primarily for indoor action photography for that reason. At 135mm, my 18-250 lens runs 3+ stops slower a difference between using ISO 6400 versus ISO 800.
the point is under normal lighting conditions the differences between gear and price is quite small.
most photographers know it is not the gear but beginners and amateurs do not realize this.
if i had a dime for everytime someone said they want to get a better dslr so they can take better pictures i would be very wealthy.
the real differences only come out when pushed to the limits of conditions or extreme needs .
I understand what you're talking about, it's just that in one post you mentioned D7100 and then D7000 in another. There is a slight difference between the two cameras.
Anyhow, I think most beginners don't understand that they need to setup the camera as well. Examples are you can adjust the Sharpness, Saturation, and white balance all on the camera. If you compare a photo with an out of the box unset camera to a setup camera photo, you will see a definite difference. Another thing most Ameteurs probably don't notice right off the bat is the amount of editing going on with aftermarket editing software. Your camera generally comes with a basic editing software but nothing close to something like Lighthouse, Photoshop, Capture Nikon NX2 etc. Good software along with some skill can go a long ways into improving a bad photo.
FF will typically provide a 1-stop advantage in noise performance over APS-C. A slower zoom will inevitably force use of higher ISO, and one of the reasons I have begun to favor faster (prime) lenses, especially in 35mm to 135mm range where price, size, weight are within reason for f/1.8-2 options which can quickly help drop the need for higher ISO.
In the past, I have contemplated getting Sony Zeiss 135mm f/1.8 primarily for indoor action photography for that reason. At 135mm, my 18-250 lens runs 3+ stops slower a difference between using ISO 6400 versus ISO 800.
the advantage is model specific. comparing a d800 to a d7000 the d800 has a 1.3 stop advantage. going further back to older models the advantage is even greater.
I understand what you're talking about, it's just that in one post you mentioned D7100 and then D7000 in another. There is a slight difference between the two cameras.
Anyhow, I think most beginners don't understand that they need to setup the camera as well. Examples are you can adjust the Sharpness, Saturation, and white balance all on the camera. If you compare a photo with an out of the box unset camera to a setup camera photo, you will see a definite difference. Another thing most Ameteurs probably don't notice right off the bat is the amount of editing going on with aftermarket editing software. Your camera generally comes with a basic editing software but nothing close to something like Lighthouse, Photoshop, Capture Nikon NX2 etc. Good software along with some skill can go a long ways into improving a bad photo.
I shoot with a D7100 and why I had asked. Anyhow, I started with a D3100 w/18-55mm VR & 55-200 VR and took some pretty decent pictures...even got some decent night time photos. Anyhow, I strongly suggest the Nikon D7000 or D7100 to anyone who is looking to advance their hobby but not ready for or able to spend the money on a Full frame set up.
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