tiny house

[Maineac]

Originally Posted by Submariner

That sounds appropriate in today's society.

If 'most subdivisions' want HOAs; then I guess avoid most subdivisions.

I do not like the cookie-cutter look of ticky-tack subdivisions anyway. I have never lived in one. They might be okay to live in, I don't know.

That was my point. Unless its a private road where plowing and maintenance might come into play, 'most subdivisions' won't have HOA's. They'll tend to have some covenants to preclude mobile homes and things like that, which tends to make sense. But that, or other covenants, can be a big sticking point. I was looking at lots up by Sugarloaf awhile back. I didn't like the idea that I HAD to build a 1,200 or 1,500 sf minimum house on a lot that was offered out in the willy wags. On the other hand, a bunch of people over the years build their nice homes and the last thing they probably want to see is a 20' x 12' tar paper shack next door with me 'n the extended family living in it, hawgs in the backyard and a rooster that just won't quit. I can see the rationale. I just don't have to buy that land. Simple enough.

[ground_pounder]

what's the average cost to demolish an old house

[Nor'Eastah]

Originally Posted by ground_pounder

what's the average cost to demolish an old house

Why demolish it? It's worth more standing, just as it is. If you can put a camper in the yard, it'll look better if there's a house. If you want to build another tiny house, you can call it an "accessory building".

Meanwhile, you already have a well and a septic. Don't discount the costs of these items. If you move your tiny house to a lot with no well and no septic, make no mistake - you will be required to put them in. I know this is true of the septic, at least. Nothing "optional" about it. So if you can find a ramshackle house somewhere that has one, for a reasonable price, go for it.

[ground_pounder]

Originally Posted by bigchuckie

If your trailer isnt made for winter use Life will be hell. Everything freezes water lines esp

. well it's insulated just like a regular house so that should not be a problem. the only thing I would have to do is get some heat tape for the plumbing so it don't freeze.

[maineborzoi]

Originally Posted by ground_pounder

. well it's insulated just like a regular house so that should not be a problem. the only thing I would have to do is get some heat tape for the plumbing so it don't freeze.

As I stated earlier, I have a dear friend that lives year round in one. True- a few extra preparations, but frankly- nice and warm. Only big notation would be that due to a lack of a secondary heat source, it is highly needed to have a good generator.

[Submariner]

We have friends who live in a single-wide 40" trailer. It can be done.

But the wind will shake it. It does not hold warmth well. Being in it during a power outage would be miserable. You best have at least two reliable heat sources. Hay bales are cheap, and easily used for skirting. The entire water line from where ever and into your trailer needs to have heat-tape and foam wrap, and done in a method that it does not become enclosed by snow-bank / ice.

Some heat sources [like propane and kerosene] add water into the air. A lot of water! Before you use either you should try to plan air circulation, to move inside air out, and outside air in.

We owned a home in Scotland that included; four apartments to let and a trailer behind it. Eventually sailors approached us wanting to let the trailer. We let them live in the trailer, but then felt bad watching them try to heat that thing with kerosene. Whenever the heat was turned down the trailer would cool, and condensate inside, dripping on them and everything. It either needed to be left cool and vented, or else it needed to be continuously heated all winter. The condensation ended up peeling the ceiling and interior walls loose.

[znlwovuhrjw]

Originally Posted by Submariner

We have friends who live in a single-wide 40" trailer. It can be done.

But the wind will shake it. It does not hold warmth well. Being in it during a power outage would be miserable. You best have at least two reliable heat sources. Hay bales are cheap, and easily used for skirting. The entire water line from where ever and into your trailer needs to have heat-tape and foam wrap, and done in a method that it does not become enclosed by snow-bank / ice.

Some heat sources [like propane and kerosene] add water into the air. A lot of water! Before you use either you should try to plan air circulation, to move inside air out, and outside air in.

We owned a home in Scotland that included; four apartments to let and a trailer behind it. Eventually sailors approached us wanting to let the trailer. We let them live in the trailer, but then felt bad watching them try to heat that thing with kerosene. Whenever the heat was turned down the trailer would cool, and condensate inside, dripping on them and everything. It either needed to be left cool and vented, or else it needed to be continuously heated all winter. The condensation ended up peeling the ceiling and interior walls loose.

The price point of a moderately new 40' trailer seems to be around $20,000-$30,000, but at that point I don't see the risk worth the reward in savings. Might as well buy the home that can handle winter without modifications and no HOA fee.

Example: 23 Brookline Dr, Mechanic Falls, ME 04256 is For Sale | Zillow

[ground_pounder]

Originally Posted by maineborzoi

As I stated earlier, I have a dear friend that lives year round in one. True- a few extra preparations, but frankly- nice and warm. Only big notation would be that due to a lack of a secondary heat source, it is highly needed to have a good generator.

right now i'm plugged in where i'm at so power is not an issue. but I do have a Honda EU7000 genset if worst comes to worst and I can plug in a space heater!! I am also thinking of doing a Dickenson marine fireplace though I heard mixed reviews on them on youtube!! I do have a battery bank with 8 Trojan deep cycle batteries with solar panels and a 6000 watt charging inverter. though it was costly I also went 12 volt as much as I could with led light and a 12 volt t.v and a 12 volt fridge to. I went with a propane stove and oven combo and a propane 6 gallon water heater.

[ground_pounder]

Originally Posted by Nor'Eastah

Why demolish it? It's worth more standing, just as it is. If you can put a camper in the yard, it'll look better if there's a house. If you want to build another tiny house, you can call it an "accessory building".

Meanwhile, you already have a well and a septic. Don't discount the costs of these items. If you move your tiny house to a lot with no well and no septic, make no mistake - you will be required to put them in. I know this is true of the septic, at least. Nothing "optional" about it. So if you can find a ramshackle house somewhere that has one, for a reasonable price, go for it.

your right the house is worth more standing and it's already prewired for electrical and plumbed in so all I would have to do is have a plumber plumb it in to the well and septic and have an electrician wire up a 50 amp post. then I can live in it while I fix up the old house if I choose to.