[hannaranch]

Anyone know which air conditioner is the best and the most economical?

[MediocreButArrogant]

Yes, I do.

[tiger08]

The best air conditioner out there, is one that is sized and installed properly. Go to any top notch HVAC forum and you will get the same answer.
Alot of people dont know that most a/c units use the same brand parts internally, compressors etc.
Ask your friends or neighbors for refrences on a company that they trust.
Also, having a larger unit than what you have installed, is also a mistake that some companys make. If someone wants to sell you a larger unit, send them on their way! If they are a really top notch company, they will run a load calculation to properly sell you what exactly you need.

Also, just to show how much proper installation counts, I have installed many of the cheapest brands out there and have not had more than a couple minor problems with them. Poor electrical connections, wiring and airflow issues are the biggest mistakes Ive seen made to a new unit that will ruin it quickly.

[khuntrevor]

this site is a good place to see how cheap the equipment is compared to what they will try and gouge you for. www.genieac.com One ton for every 400 sf will generally do the trick in AZ and NV. Your existing duct-work can prevent you from going up or down more than a half ton. Lots of pirates out there--waiting until Summer was a bad idea. Plan on about 500 more for that issue.

[BuyingWhenLow]

For a simple estimation You can check the model number of your previous AC unit. There will be a number within the model number that is divisible by 6. This will tell you the BTU rating. 24 = 24,000 BTU's. 42 = 42,000 BTU's, etc. Divide the BTU's by 12,000 and that will tell you the tonnage of the compressor. Compressors are built in ½ ton increments.

If 24,000 BTU's are needed, then a 2 ton compressor is required. If your model number is ABC411942XJ, it is a 42,000 BTU unit with a 3 ½ ton compressor. (42,000/12,000=3.5)


If unknown, determining the exact BTU's needed is more difficult. You take into account many variables such as room sizes, windows, direction of sun, etc.


After knowing the tonnage needed you can compare energy efficiency by comparing the SEER ratings of the different nodels. The higher the SEER rating, the higher the energy efficiency.

That one ton for every 400 square foot is not a good rule. There are too many variables.

[tiger08]

Originally Posted by khuntrevor

this site is a good place to see how cheap the equipment is compared to what they will try and gouge you for. www.genieac.com One ton for every 400 sf will generally do the trick in AZ and NV. Your existing duct-work can prevent you from going up or down more than a half ton. Lots of pirates out there--waiting until Summer was a bad idea. Plan on about 500 more for that issue.

Checking wholesale pricing before having a contractor out has nothing to do with the price of a good install. Want it done cheap and crappy, or want it done right?

I would rather pay more to a top notch company to do a nice job, than pay less for a hack install.

Contractors have to make a profit, they also have overhead costs, fuel costs, insurance costs, workmans comp, need I go on?

Just because someone can go on a website and find a unit for x amount of dollars, it does not account for all the extra material needed for a job, the possible crane charge and company labor.

[Croce]

Depending upon your needs, I would consider the mini splits. We used this system extensively at our last home. They worked great, were virtually silent and had remote control. They aren't practical in all applications however.

Good Luck,
Croce

[khuntrevor]

I think there is a conspiracy against the mini-splits in the US. Kind of like the monorail not going to the airport--it just makes too much sense. Think how much cheaper and easier a home is to build without ducts. Think of all the carcinogens you miss out on.....It's all they use for residential in Thailand, and they've had Carrier for 75 years. The US brands are clearly number 1 for commercial applications, but only represent a small fraction of residential installs in that country of 64 million. Did some beers one night with an engineer from Trane Thailand, very interesting guy.

[Chicken Wing]

I'm in FL and we paid about $4k for a new handler and outside unit. It handles the heat too in the winter time (not that we run it much).

Make sure you get the one that's big enough or efficient enough to qualify for the tax credit. I think it's something like:

Split-system central air-conditioning units must have an Energy Efficiency Ratio (EER) greater than 13 and a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER) greater than 16. Package central air-conditioning systems must have an EER greater than 12 and a SEER greater than 14.

[MediocreButArrogant]

My guess is the OP is looking for a window or portable A/C, but they weren't clueful enough to include that information in the original post. That's why it wasn't worth giving a serious answer.