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Location: Moose Jaw, in between the Moose's butt and nose.
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I went to Auto Zone where they can do a troubleshoot for free. They said that if the car is still running fine, which it is, then I should be more concerned about not passing an emission test. I don't have to take one for 2 years, but still, you never know. This is what came out on the computer from their check:
Definition Catalyst efficiency low bank 1
Explanation The oxygen sensors monitor the catalytic converters ability to store oxygen.
Probable Causes
1 Catalytic Converter Defective possibly due to one of the following 3 possible causes (for check engine light).
2 Engine misfire or running condition (runs fine for right now).
3 Large Vacuum Leak
4 Engine oil leakage into exhaust valve guide seals piston rings.
Again, the oil smell has me concerned and the check engine lite, even if the car lasts a few more years with it on, well, that could hurt its value when I try to sell it.
Is my car on its last legs? Hopefully not.
Most likely its #4, if youre getting a noticeable oil smell. Does your car burn oil out the exhaust, too? Can you see it coming out from under the hood (ie when you stop at night with the headlights on--can you see a small cloud)? In any case its not fatal, just an inconvenience. Just watch your oil levels and add as needed. You could also try some "Restore" engine protectant. I used it on my old Cavalier when it was burning oil (bad piston rings), and it actually helped stem a lot of the oil burning.
If when you cold star it there is smoke oil is lewaking past the vlue guide seal. Really no problem as long as its not constant and noticable betwqeen oil changes.
I have had vehicles in the past that when the oil was changed it somehow got spilled on the exhaust manifold and you could smell oil burning. Also when draining oil it would puddle on crossmember and drip on driveway for days, I always thought I had a leak.
My car right now is a 1994 Crown Victoria with 110,000 miles and it does not leak oil but uses 1 qt. every 500 miles and I was told it leaks past valve guides and is nothing to worry about just keep adding oil when needed. You can not smell it though.
A plug change on this car is IIRC pretty easy, most import 4-bangers are. Your oxygen sensor may be getting past it's prime. Both are way cheaper than a new cat. Although, if you have to replace the cat in 2 years, you can get aftermarket (or maybe even a used cat from a junkyard) that probably would get you past the smog check. Or sell the car to someone in an area that they don't have to smog it.
Oil smell may not be related to the CEL. Does the car burn oil? How long for it to burn a quart? What oil do you use? I have had good luck with Castrol Hi-mile in well-seasoned vehicles.
My car right now is a 1994 Crown Victoria with 110,000 miles and it does not leak oil but uses 1 qt. every 500 miles and I was told it leaks past valve guides.
Oh yeah - that was very common on those cars (as well as the 1990-94 Lincoln Town Cars and Mercury Grand Marquis), but despite that, these are still awesome engines. Once new valve seals are installed, they are good for another 500K.
Other cars that come to mind with this problem are the 1991-95 Acura Legends with the 3.2L V6 and many V6 (and some 4-cylinder) Chrylsers/Dodges and Mitsubishis of the 80s-90s, but these were more of engine ring problems, which is a more serious issue (on the Dodge/Mitsubishi), rather than valve guides/seals.
I've got the same problem. A 2000 Hyundai Accent. I've got a sizable oil leak. It's coming down the Exhaust manifold Heat shield and dripping down onto the exhaust manifold itself onto the top of the first catalytic converter where it is burning up into a white puff of smoke.
The closest gasket is the Exhaust manifold gasket, but oil doesn't pass through that one. So I'm trying to figure out where I'm leaking from. It's not the valve cover gasket as it looks ok.
Help with ideas?
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