Finishing ceiling drywall after asbestos popcorn removal? (paint, bedrooms, carpet)
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Hi all, I had an asbestos abatement company remove popcorn ceiling from a recently purchased home, and I'm planning out how to skim, texture and paint the ceiling from this point. I haven't done much drywall work of this scope so I'm considering whether to DIY or hire it out.
My main question is if I DIY this, is sanding really necessary between coats of joint compound I'd apply? The popcorn was removed and several layers of fiberlock were applied, but I'm still nervous about sanding the ceiling at all. Here and there you can see what seems to be tiny spots of some of the popcorn material still there under the clear fiberlock that was applied.
Wondering what I might end up with if I DIY this and either not sand at all, or very lightly sand it only after the final layer of compound is applied. Is there a texture or other technique I could use that would hide this less than smooth finish from lack of sanding?
First and foremost- I wouldn't worry about a small amount of asbestos. Those that have had complications from asbestos exposure had been exposed for years and years.
smooth finishing a ceiling is NOT a DIY job! You should definitely hire drywall finishers.
Without a long dissertation on the steps/procedures of drywall finishing, I'll say this...
The only coat that actually needs sanding is the last one! And there are finishes that don't require sanding- like "popcorn" finish (now you're probably wondering why you took it down in the first place). The other most common finish is "knock-down", along with what is most commonly referred to as "orange peel".
Location: East of Seattle since 1992, 615' Elevation, Zone 8b - originally from SF Bay Area
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I have done this in our 3,000 sf house, and never sanded anything. After removal of the (non-asbestos) popcorn, I let it dry a few days, then sprayed texture with a compressor and hopper gun, doing a heavy orange peel that matches the walls. You can rent a compressor if you don't have one, and home stores sell the gun. Fun, but messy.
I should have probably clarified I'm not going for a smooth finish. Orange peel would be the plan, for the ceiling and the walls to match. My plan for DIY would be this:
- Apply a few layers of joint compound to skim coat (would like to avoid sanding ceiling)
- Spray an orange peel texture (I do have a compressor already and would get the gun)
- Paint
We're replacing the carpet, trim, windows, everything in the 3 bedrooms and hallway I'd be doing this in, so I'd tape everything off but not worried about the mess too much.
Am I reading your advice correctly that I don't need to sand if I'm going to spray the orange peel texture anyway?
Location: East of Seattle since 1992, 615' Elevation, Zone 8b - originally from SF Bay Area
44,551 posts, read 81,085,957 times
Reputation: 57729
Quote:
Originally Posted by blockzilla
I should have probably clarified I'm not going for a smooth finish. Orange peel would be the plan, for the ceiling and the walls to match. My plan for DIY would be this:
- Apply a few layers of joint compound to skim coat (would like to avoid sanding ceiling)
- Spray an orange peel texture (I do have a compressor already and would get the gun)
- Paint
We're replacing the carpet, trim, windows, everything in the 3 bedrooms and hallway I'd be doing this in, so I'd tape everything off but not worried about the mess too much.
Am I reading your advice correctly that I don't need to sand if I'm going to spray the orange peel texture anyway?
There may be places where you dug in while scraping that need touching up, and the taped joints may need another layer to smooth them out since the original workers knew it would be popcorn so left it less finished. Otherwise no, the texture will stick to the drywall after the popcorn is removed. A lighter orange peel requires a smoother surface under it than a heavier coating like I have been using.
Use a sponge and water to smooth out rough spots between coats. Since the last coat will be a texture you don't need to be perfect and with the sponge you won't be making dust.
I used to tape professionally, but was never involved in using spray textures. It’s hard to say what kind of job you have without seeing it. If you have chunks missing or blisters under the rock, or nail pops, etc., you should tape those areas, coat them, and then sand out any ridges. I used trowels rather than knives for anything wider than 6”. We would add some water to the compound and whip it with a “potato masher.”
I’ve coated walls that had wallpaper removed and left digs everywhere. They look like new Sheetrock, smooth. But it took me multiple coats to get it smooth. With a texture finish that might not be necessary; it depends on the condition of your ceiling.
One final note: Use a pole sander with medium light grit. Don’t over sand. Don’t rough up the rock paper. If it is coated well very little sanding will be necessary.
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