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I think for a one-off I would probably just drive a small nail into the molding on either side of the corner (perpendicular to the molding and parallel to the glass)
That can be very difficult if not impossible to do especially if you don't have the right clamps, as I already suggested drill a small pilot hole and use a small finishing screw. You want to try and keep the screw hole perpendicular to the angle because it has tendency to pull it out of alignment when you tighten. I have been doing this with outside corners on moldings, e.g around a door. In the case of the door you would assemble all three pieces first. Takes little more time but you'll get a perfect joint every time.
That can be very difficult if not impossible to do especially if you don't have the right clamps, as I already suggested drill a small pilot hole and use a small finishing screw. You want to try and keep the screw hole perpendicular to the angle because it has tendency to pull it out of alignment when you tighten. I have been doing this with outside corners on moldings, e.g around a door. In the case of the door you would assemble all three pieces first. Takes little more time but you'll get a perfect joint every time.
I wasn't talking about how to pin the corner together, but just suggesting a quick and dirty workaround for clamping the joint while glue sets up.
Frankly if I were looking at a heavy hanging (like a mirror) and the miters on the moldings at the corner were not in perfect condition, I would probably use an L bracket screwed to the back to keep the corner together. In fact, I would probably secure said bracket not only with screws but also with a good grade of epoxy. Do it that way and it's never coming apart again. Of course, OP didn't provide any pictures (and probably is never coming back anyway) so it's all speculation at this point.
gorilla glue doesnt expand much if at all. it is activated by wetting the mating areas lightly.
you could also buy one corner clamp or a ratchet clamp that goes around the whole frame, especially if the frame is qood quality or has sentimental value. This is no time to cheapen out.
Any quality carpenters wood glue. (Usually yellow).
I do to like using Gorilla Glue for something like this as it expands as it sets. Cleaning up the glue the gushes out of the connection can be difficult and can create a big mess. Wood glue does not expand and can be wiped off with a damp cloth leaving no residue behind (if you wipe repeatedly with a clean part of the cloth).
In a recent article, they interviewed someone from a glue manufacturer and he recommended not wiping off wood glue with a damp cloth, instead waiting about 30 minutes then scrape it off.
another nice to have tool for picture framing is a v-nail and brad driver, probably wouldn't even need to use glue. I've used these on frames with minimum thickness and depth and never had one split on me.
That is a good suggestion that is good for a temporary repair. The problem is that glue alone is not going to hold a frame from separating at the corners, unless these are braced.
Says clear won't expand and I found that to be true. But I don't glop, rather sort of brush.
Does all Gorilla glue expand as it cures? That is why I don't use it often on wood. For the OP, regular Elmer's white glue will work well (as long as you secure the pieces while it cures).
Quote:
Originally Posted by photoman_6
gorilla glue doesnt expand much if at all. it is activated by wetting the mating areas lightly.
you could also buy one corner clamp or a ratchet clamp that goes around the whole frame, especially if the frame is qood quality or has sentimental value. This is no time to cheapen out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coldjensens
Any quality carpenters wood glue. (Usually yellow).
I do (Not?) to like using Gorilla Glue for something like this as it expands as it sets. Cleaning up the glue the gushes out of the connection can be difficult and can create a big mess. Wood glue does not expand and can be wiped off with a damp cloth leaving no residue behind (if you wipe repeatedly with a clean part of the cloth).
My experience with the "original" Gorilla Glue is that it expands as it cures. Absolutely useless for any type of fine gluing.
However, given the number of people who seem to use it, and the rapid expansion of the product line into other fasteners products (tape, for example), they must have improved it.
I do a lot of woodworking and likely will never find out if Gorilla Glue has improved.. I use Titebond Glues for wood gluing, and S6000 for all other gluing needs. Both are available in small containers so as not to break the bank.
For the picture frame, small container of Titebond II and a ratchet strap to clamp it. Be done, with the right products, for less tha$20, and more likely closer to $10.
For me, wood glue is preferable. And I scrape it off as the angle clips hold the laths well. I have assembled a few frames to make a photo panel in the house. My daughter ordered online at https://www.frameshop.com.au/canvas-prints photo on canvas. She wants to make something like a photo gallery in the house. She likes what frames I get. But I don't wipe off the wood glue with a damp rag to disturb the new joint of the blanks. I do not consider other glues because the result suits everyone to whom I have made photo or picture frames.
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