Water ring in basement (drain, installation, glue, pipes)
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Hard to see what that is, but assuming it's a CPVC vent pipe going between the joists of the floor above and the reason for the leak is the joint isn't straight, you'd have to cut the joint out, remove the block the pipe is attached to (assuming that's the only purpose for that block), put in a thinner block that wont stress the joint, glue in a new section of pipe, and re-attach the pipe to the new block. None of this is super-hard but it's all a pain, especially cutting the pipe in a confined space.
Determine what the pipe is for- is it strictly a vent or is it a drain? And if it is a drain, how much water usually runs through it?
The reasoning behind these questions is to evaluate the degree of evasion. As previously mentioned would be the most evasive. But, because there is such a small "drip" and obviously not very consistent you may be able to just clean the outside of the joint(s) with a light sanding and reapply PVC glue (the heavy duty thick kind) all around the joint(s). Let cure for 24hrs. before running any water through it (if its a drain).
I'm sure there are some who will argue the point, but why go through a full repair/replace if you don't have to? So, if by chance it did fail in 6months to a year then clearly a full repair would be in order.
Got it! H/E furnace that uses PVC for vent.
So slap some glue on there like I previously mentioned- crack a beer, call it a day, and watch some football!
I'd probably check where it exits the roof also- it should have a trap (like two elbows connected) so the open end of the pipe is pointing down. This keeps rain water from entering the pipe.
Mine looks like this. I have two vents on the furnace. It is the one on the right that's leaking.
I'd just add a 45degree elbow to it; or at least a 22degree. That will prevent water infiltration.
Also adding a screen will prevent birds and other critters from entering.
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