Repairing basement wall crack - how should I proceed (floor, leaking, cost)
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I agree with those that say dig down and patch from the outside. I think there is also a sheet product you can install against the foundation on top of the crack after you seal the crack. Just an extra water boundry.
Also be sure water is not pouring on this spot when raining (like from a roof, gutter,etc.) and be sure it is not pooling at that point due to landscape grading. Keep as much water away from the area as you can.
If the leak is stopped from the outside then patching the inside crack is more cosmetic.
I plan. To start digging out the soil outside and prep for patching the crack. I'd like to know whether to chisel out a notch on the crack (make the crack bigger) before apply hydraulic cement or just put the cement on the crack as is. Thanks in adv.
The only way to repair foundation wall cracks "successfully" is by the injection process. Injecting a typical wall crack with an epoxy or urethane resin is done under pressure pushing the material from the inside all the way to the outside.
The injection process fills the crack from top to bottom, from inside to outside. This repairs and stops the water intrusion.
The old process of v-ing out a crack from the inside or outside and patching it with hydraulic cement or water plug will work for a period of time- but is usually not a permenent solution, especially if the wall is still prone to movement.
Epoxy injections are considered structural repairs and will weld the foundation back together when done properly. Urethane injections will stop water but are not considered structural fixes. It is however flexible and can withstand movement in the foundation. Newer cracks on homes that have been allowed to settle for at least 1-2 yrs are good candidates for epoxy injection.
For older homes that have had cracks previously repaired and have dirt and silt built up inside them, a urethane injection will be more successful in stopping water.
I started to dig down pass the mulch and soil (only 1-2 in) and stopped when I realize there is a layer of packed pinkish fiberglass along the foundation wall. I've never heard of this being a waterproofing or landscaping method but hack, it seems better not to disturb what's there too much. Here is a pict of the outside: https://www.city-data.com/forum/attac...1&d=1351961911
Whichever way you go about it, you need to seal that crack outside, which means you might need to dig out your foundation outside. This is super important. You can't just seal from the inside because water will still get into the wall from the outside. This isn't about preventing water from getting into your basement. It's all about preventing water from getting into the concrete and destroying your foundation. A poured concrete foundation is a fortune to replace compared to a concrete block foundation or even a sandstone foundation. I should know because I have a poured concrete room under my porch. It's just 6' x 18' and will cost close to 15k to replace.
Yep. The physics of water seepage through basement walls is that water is forced in because there is higher pressure outside because of the water table, the soil pressure but mostly cooler water with higher pressure and lower pressure on your warmer side of the wall which acts like a drain.
I started to dig down pass the mulch and soil (only 1-2 in) and stopped when I realize there is a layer of packed pinkish fiberglass along the foundation wall. I've never heard of this being a waterproofing or landscaping method but hack, it seems better not to disturb what's there too much. Here is a pict of the outside: https://www.city-data.com/forum/attac...1&d=1351961911
That is a part of the waterproofing system. When the membrane is sprayed on it is covered with the fiberglass panels- they serve two functions.
First is to protect the membrane when the foundation is backfilled. Secondly, it acts as a wicking agent to help water get to the perimeter drain system. Sounds like Tuff-N-Dri.
If it is T-N-D, there's a 30yr limited warranty.
I have spec'ed T-N-D for my homes for almost 20yrs. now.
K'ledgeBldr - Thanks for the explanation. So glad I only hit about an inch or so before I stopped digging! This kind of explains then why the crack isn't leaking much water despite the huge crack in and out. Really only leaked drops during Sandy and not other smaller rain events.
A possible quick fix if that is tnd, is to simply grind out the crack 1/4 inch wide to about 3/4 inch deep to the tnd. Pack in some backing rod...and caulk it using a polyurethane caulk like vulkem. Cheap fix and just might take care of the leakage.
I'm getting ready to patch the gap with hydraulic cement tomorrow. I'll do the outside for now. that way I can see if anything leaks thru to the inside if we get another big rain event.
I've been in the trades for awhile now. The crack doesn't look all that bad. I started using Kilz Masonary Waterproofing paint a few years ago with good results.
When properly applied on an interior wall it will resist 10 PSI of water pressure.
It's a quick and relatively inexpensive fix.
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Wet basements
