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Guys, I figured it out!! I read the manual found online and noticed that the circular piece with the wires simply snap in. So I took a screwdriver to pry it out.
Then I was able to open the battery compartment. But after putting in a fresh battery, the beep continued. so that must mean the 7 yrs is up and it's time to dump it. Anyway, I'm glad the beeping stopped. THanks for ALL your help.
Check the rest of them, if they are all marked as similar date I'd replace them all.
I'd get at least one with a ppm readout.
I've never seen a smoke/CO combo detector with a PPM readout. Hardwired CO-only detectors are not very common; most hardwired CO detectors are also smoke detectors. Of course, you can replace that hardwired CO/smoke combo detector with a smoke-only detector and buy a plug-in CO detector with a PPM readout. Do not replace the hardwired smoke/CO combo detector with a hardwired CO-only detector, since codes likely require there to be a smoke detector in that location.
If you have to replace all of the CO and smoke detectors; get at least one photoelectric or dual-sensor (photoelectric/ionization) alarm. Photoelectric sensors give far superior detection of slow-smoldering fires compared to ionization sensors, and many residential fires are of a slow-smoldering type. Be sure that all of the detectors are the same brand for they can interconnect properly.
Kidde makes a couple hardwired CO detectors with PPM readout, but none of the combo units (hardwired or battery) appear to have a readout.
I originally had a plug-in CO detector but I prefer the fully battery operated one I replaced it with because it's easier to place. Both were from Kidde and had the display.
Kidde makes a couple hardwired CO detectors with PPM readout, but none of the combo units (hardwired or battery) appear to have a readout.
I originally had a plug-in CO detector but I prefer the fully battery operated one I replaced it with because it's easier to place. Both were from Kidde and had the display.
However, it would probably be against code to replace a hardwired smoke/CO combo detector with a CO-only detector, since codes generally require a smoke detector in every room and hallway other than kitchens, bathrooms, closets, and garages. The only options to be compliant with code would be to replace the hardwired smoke/CO combo detector with another hardwired smoke/CO combo detector, or replace the hardwired smoke/CO combo detector with a hardwired smoke detector and a separate plug-in or battery-operated CO detector.
The unit I took out was a Kiddie plug-in CO only monitor. Since the bracket and the electrical connector already is installed, I think the easiest way to go is to get the exact same model so I can plug the unit right in without making another plug in adapter work with the new unit.
I do see a ppm read out one, but really, it's not that helpful if the unit is in a place that I rarely go to (basement furnace room). Those are also more expensive by about 20 bucks. At this point, the least money that needs spent the better since there are so much to repair/replace having just moved into my first house.
The unit I took out was a Kiddie plug-in CO only monitor. Since the bracket and the electrical connector already is installed, I think the easiest way to go is to get the exact same model so I can plug the unit right in without making another plug in adapter work with the new unit.
I do see a ppm read out one, but really, it's not that helpful if the unit is in a place that I rarely go to (basement furnace room). Those are also more expensive by about 20 bucks. At this point, the least money that needs spent the better since there are so much to repair/replace having just moved into my first house.
Actually your unit is considered a hardwired unit, which plugs into a harness included with the detector that is hardwired to the house wiring. Plug-in CO detectors use a standard wall outlet.
Be sure that the model you have is still made. Kidde/FireX connectors are fairly standardized these days; the only models currently using a different connector are the Silhouette low-profile smoke and CO alarms. Older FireX units made before Kidde bought them out also use a different connector; FireX has since switched to the Kidde connectors. As for the bracket, there are no guarantees if the model you currently have is no longer made.
Last edited by Pink Jazz; 10-22-2012 at 08:37 PM..
I do see a ppm read out one, but really, it's not that helpful if the unit is in a place that I rarely go to (basement furnace room). Those are also more expensive by about 20 bucks. At this point, the least money that needs spent the better since there are so much to repair/replace having just moved into my first house.
That's actually the ideal place for one with a readout. The idea with a readout is you can actually see what it is. CO detectors don't go off just because it reaches a deadly level. It will also go off if you exceed certain thresholds over extended periods of time. If you have an escalating issue you might be able to find out before it goes off like in the middle of the night.
Glad you fixed it. We have a plan that involves a sledge hammer. I've already read the reviews that my CO detectors will not shut off an EAR PIERCING sound when the backup battery dies, without using a special screw driver. Since we realize it will be impossible to tollerate while we find and use the screw driver. As a result, we decided the best solution is to throw it out into the yard until we find a sledge hammer to smash it.
I just took a pic of how the CO monitor is connected. See below. The top part is on the ceiling, the bottom part is the back side of the CO monitor.
I tried to open the battery compartment, and it would not open. I also tried to pull out the wiring connected to the unit itself (the circular plastic piece)... also not possible.
Is my last resort disconnecting the AC wires (where the 2 red wire covers are on the top part)? If so, I cannot find the breaker switch that kills that power source.... is my only alternative to turn off the Main Power to the whole house, then disconnect the AC wires?
I couldnt see your attached picture, but I believe the battery compartment can be "locked" by a tab of some sort. none of mine are so I haven't really checked to see how to "unlock" it. go the the mfg website with the model # you have and look for an instruction manual. My units are attached to the ceiling wiring by a plastic connector that just unlocks by squeezing the tab locks. then you just get a replacement and reconnect.
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The idea with a readout is you can actually see what it is. CO detectors don't go off just because it reaches a deadly level. It will also go off if you exceed certain thresholds over extended periods of time. If you have an escalating issue you might be able to find out before it goes off like in the middle of the night.
