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I have several "Stanley 31164 Indoor Wireless Remote Control with Single Transmitter" throughout my house. One transmitter controls up to three receivers that are plugged into outlets. I use them to turn on/off multiple night lights in various rooms.
I've read about other brands of receivers like this overheating and catching the wall on fire -- so I check the receivers regularly to ensure that they're not hot. I've also checked out the Stanley product line and never found any reports of recalls or complaints about overheating or fires.
However, an incident happened the other night that has me a bit concerned. One of the night lights/receivers is plugged into an outlet in the kitchen. My coffee maker is also plugged into that outlet. I usually dont make coffee at night, but I did the other night. So both the night light/receiver and the coffee maker were on -- and this tripped the breaker. Twice. After that, I removed the night light/receiver from that outlet and had no more problem with the coffee maker.
Now I'm concerned about why the breaker would have tripped. I tried plugging the night light without the receiver into that outlet and turning it on while the coffee maker was on. The breaker didnt trip.
Is it possible that the coffee maker and the receiver combined pull too much energy for that outlet? I read the instructions that accompanies the remote control and receivers and there's nothing about overloading an outlet.
I really like these remote control devices and not because I'm lazy. I'm still recovering from a stroke a few years ago and it's difficult for me to turn on night lights manually. But I need them because, in the dark, my balance is not good -- and I prefer night lights to lamps when I just want to walk through a room. However, I dont want to have to worry about a fire.
I am assuming you had something plugged into the reciever that you were controlling. This and the coffee pot probably exceeded the capabilities of the breaker. The reciever should not use much, it depends on what you are controlling. That can be the issue. Also the reciever should have a rating of what it can safely control. Do not exceed that rating, it maybe be lower than the breaker and if overloaded could overheat, even below the breaker capability.
I know money can and will always be an issue with certain things for a home. And though I understand your circumstances, I think you should consider a better technology.
In every term I could possibly think of I could not find anything on those Stanley remotes. Even on all of the Stanley websites- which leads me to believe that they sold their name to use on those cheap Chinese devices.
The new technology, which can incorporate the use of IR, RF, and "i" series and/or android devices is the latest and safest technology available. When Lutron first came out with their QS series I immediately got my electrical subcontractor to start boning-up on it capabilities. I sold it as an upgrade feature. Check their webpage- Lutron HomeWorks® QS System Overview
Granted it's not the cheap plug-in that you have now but, is it worth your life? Living safe doesn't come cheap.
I am assuming you had something plugged into the reciever that you were controlling. This and the coffee pot probably exceeded the capabilities of the breaker. The reciever should not use much, it depends on what you are controlling. That can be the issue. Also the reciever should have a rating of what it can safely control. Do not exceed that rating, it maybe be lower than the breaker and if overloaded could overheat, even below the breaker capability.
Thanks so much for your reply.
Yes, I had a small night light plugged in to the receiver.
As a test, I plugged just the night light (not the receiver) in to the outlet and turned it on. Then I turned the coffee pot on. The breaker didnt trip.
But, when the night light was plugged in to the receiver and the coffee pot was on, the breaker did trip.
As a precaution, I'm not plugging anything in to that outlet until I can get an electrician out to check it out.
I know money can and will always be an issue with certain things for a home. And though I understand your circumstances, I think you should consider a better technology.
In every term I could possibly think of I could not find anything on those Stanley remotes. Even on all of the Stanley websites- which leads me to believe that they sold their name to use on those cheap Chinese devices.
The new technology, which can incorporate the use of IR, RF, and "i" series and/or android devices is the latest and safest technology available. When Lutron first came out with their QS series I immediately got my electrical subcontractor to start boning-up on it capabilities. I sold it as an upgrade feature. Check their webpage- Lutron HomeWorks® QS System Overview
Granted it's not the cheap plug-in that you have now but, is it worth your life? Living safe doesn't come cheap.
I also have a problem with the Stanley indoor wireless remote controls. I bought 1 set of 3 with 1 remote and loved it so much I bought a second set for another part of the house. When I set up the second set I found that both remotes from 2 different sets controls both sets of plug ins at the same time. So that both remotes control both #3 plugs for both sets even though they are on seperate floors of the house. How can I change 1 remote and plug set to work independently from the other set? thanks for any help you can give me. Otherwise I have to send the 2nd set back.
I also have a problem with the Stanley indoor wireless remote controls. I bought 1 set of 3 with 1 remote and loved it so much I bought a second set for another part of the house. When I set up the second set I found that both remotes from 2 different sets controls both sets of plug ins at the same time. So that both remotes control both #3 plugs for both sets even though they are on seperate floors of the house. How can I change 1 remote and plug set to work independently from the other set? thanks for any help you can give me. Otherwise I have to send the 2nd set back.
Check the back of the packaging for the frequency setting.
Whatever that freq is, is obviously the same as the other. Just get a set that has a different freq.
Depending on manufacturer some list actual freq, others use A, B, or C.
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I'm still recovering from a stroke a few years ago and it's difficult for me to turn on night lights manually. But I need them because, in the dark, my balance is not good -- and I prefer night lights to lamps when I just want to walk through a room. However, I dont want to have to worry about a fire.
Remotes won't work independently
