Does anyone have a mildew and or mold smell coming from their he front loader ? (clothes, washer)

[suzannewright]

We had this prob, too. I heard that leaving your door open to air out in between will work. I started doing that every few loads and no more smell. My washer is in a corner and having the door open doesn't interfere w/anything, so I guess it's not much of a prob for me.

[z28lt1]

Originally Posted by ReblTeen84

We have a Samsung front loader, had it for over a year now. Use Affresh once a month or so, leave the door and detergent tray open when we're done, never had a problem with smell. Ours has a filter as well to catch hair, coins etc, if yours has it, make sure you drain it out and clean it.

We leave the door open on ours (LG), and don't clean it as often as we should and still don't usually have any smells (door seal and detergent draw are always fine). But, we've had it start to smell a few times and it is always the pump filter. Need to drain the pump (easy via a tube) and clean the filter. Manual says every month. We do it about every 3 months, takes 5 minutes and all is well again. Otherwise no problems. I'll do the 20 extra minutes of maintenance each year to keep our front loaders.

[destiny826]

We have an LG top load, it also have that mold smell as well. What can we do?

[RayinAK]

Originally Posted by d2mini

I could pull back the rubber seal around the door opening right now and show you the mold growing inside. It's nasty and yes, it stinks. We run the cleaning cycles and it still does it. We also try to leave the door open so it dries.
I will never buy a front loader again.
It's a very common problem.

Some washers tell you when to clean them by turning an amber-color light. On the top loader Maytag Bravos my wife and I have, the light reads "Clean Wash Reminder." So when the light comes ON, my wife follows the instructions on the manual which is to pour-in a cup of liquid bleach and then press the Start button after closing the lid. Front loaders have seals around the door (lid), and these seals retain moisture. Mold and bacteria growth on the seals create the musty smell the OP is referring to.The instruction relating to cleaning the washer varies from one manufacturer to the next, but most recommend a cup of liquid bleach for cleaning the washer, because bleach is very effective in killing mold and bacteria.

A lot of people don't know that several washer manufacturers have at least two versions of the same washer, and that the main difference is that one is a top loader while the other is a front loader. Both are just as efficient, except that the top loader can have a larger capacity tub. Also, since top loaders don't need a water-tight seal around the door that is always immersed in water like a front loader does, mold smell is not much of an issue.

Finally, just before you put your washer through a cleaning cycle, wipe the inside area of the door seals (the area that's always moist, not the outside area that's always dry) with a clean wash cloth that has been soaked in the cleaning solution you are using, and then proceed with the cleaning process.

[RayinAK]

Originally Posted by destiny826

We have an LG top load, it also have that mold smell as well. What can we do?

If you don't have the owners manual, go to the manufacturer's webpage and download it. Then read and follow the instructions relating to periodically cleaning your washer. If your washer does not have a "cleaning reminder" light, then post a note next to the washer showing which day of the month to clean it, and follow the schedule without skipping

[rj muhlheim]

SMELLY WASHER and CLOTHES***** WHIRLPOOL FRONTLOADER DESIGN FLAW
Whirlpool frontloader washing machines do not have a quick clean lint filter like older top loaders The pump filter must be cleaned to prevent bad smell and long drain/empty time. Whirlpool makes routine filter cleaning difficult on early/lo end models and later changed their design to prevent this recurring problem.
I use an older Whirlpool Frontloader Washer. After about 6 months it started to smell bad and so did the clothes. It would take a long time to drain, even though the display said one minute to go. Later it made a rattling noise and would not drain. My drain pump got clogged with dirt and debri, was damaged and I had to replace it with one from the Whirlpool dealer. Be careful to check your pockets before laundry. Coins, paper clips and othe small objects can be sucked into the pump and cause damage, noisey/slow drain or no drain problems.
The pump is below the drum and has an easily cleanable filter. Water remains in the pump. It needs to be cleaned regularly or your washer will smell bad and your clothes will not get clean. Newer or upscaled models have been upgraded to make it easy to clean the filters. You can see the pump if you go to a washer sales outlet and look at the upper end models.They have a small access door about the size of automobile gas door about 6"x6" in the middle of the lower panel. Inside is drain tube with a plugged end and a plastic pump with a removable cleanable filter. Ask a sales person how to drain and clean it. The improved model with the access out door is easy to clean. Drain the pump and, remove the filter, twisting it counter clockwise and revove it into an old towel. Clean the filter in the sink with a brush back,wipe out the pump, put it together and you are good to go in a flash. Running a machine cleaning product at this time will complete the job.
The debris and dirt in the filter will give you a good clue to where the odor is comming from. Check it in a few weeks and you can determine if the interval of cleaning should be shorter or longer.
Older models without the access door are much more trouble. Acess is not as easy and it can get messy. They have no access door or drain tube so the lower panel mest be removed to gain access to the filter. I use lots of old towels, a mop, floor cleaner and a bucket and a sponge and 2 30'' wood 4'x4' blocks a sauce pan, a pair of scissors and an old plastic laundry detergent bottle and about 6 feet of rope a dish scrub brush and a torq screwdriver. The large 1.45 quart size works for me. Here is how I do it:

Remove the electric plug from the wall
Wrap the rope in a large loop through the front feet of the washer.
Pull the washer from the wall.
Get the sauce pan to drain the hoses
Shut of the water, disconnect the hoses, drain them into the pan
Remove the drain hoses from the drain
Drain them into the pan
The lower panel is close to the floor. I rock the washer to the right, lift from the open door,
as a helper places a 4x4 under the left side and the repeat to put wood under the right side.
Remove three screws with a torq (star shaped) screw driver on the lower panel and carefully place ithe panel in a safe place.
The pump is in center a few inches above the base. It is full of SMELLY GLOP.
Use your scissors to make a drain pan from the plastic soap bottle
and put it under the pump and stuff the surrounding area with old towels
With a towel in hand. Carefully remove the the filter by turning counter clockwise (see above) catching the glop in the pan. note* you may have to only loosen the filter and catch some water then tighten it up dump the waer and repleat until the water pump stops draining.
The filter can be cleaned with a dish brush in the sink andthe rubber ok ring given a light smear of vasaline to make thle future easier. Wipe out the pump with a towel soap and water until clean.
Clean up any spills with mop bucket a sponge and towels.
Reassemble the machine, Remove the rope and wood,
Connect the hoses, retreive the sauce pan and push the washer home.
Put a cleaning tab in the washer and follow the instructions.

Your washer should smell much better and clean clothes much better. Keep the door open when not in use.

The pump can be modified by a clever person like the better ones and velcro used to attach the lower panel to make filter service cleaner, faster and easier. Better to catch the nasty stuff in a drain pan than have all over your laundry floor and washing machine base. I will modify mine and write another message.

[accufitgolf]

Originally Posted by phonelady61

I have a mildew and or mold smell coming from my he front loader washing machine ? I was thinking that maybe the Tide brand washer cleaner product might help , if you have used it please let me know if it worked or a waist a money . Also has anyone else expierienced this odor from their front loader ? If so and you got rid of it please let me know what you did . Also im afraid if something does not work I will have to get rid of the front loader and get a top loader .I really like the way the front loaders clean and the idea of using less detergent and water appeals to me as well . Thanks in advance for any help and or answers .

Does not everybody unless they take precautions to prevent it? Best I heard was when finished, leave the door open a bit so it can dry out.

[fancykatya]

So glad my father dissuaded me from a front loaded washer and dryer set. I bought the standard top load washer and regular dryer. I just wash out my washer and clean the lint trap in the dryer as my dad showed me. No unnecessary drama.

[biguggy]

Withe reference to the above it has recently come to my attention that Whirlpool have admitted in a Canadian court that:
1. They have altered the material of their spiders, to an aluminium alloy more resistant to corrosion.
2. Altered the design of the spiders to improve drainage.
3. Altered the design of the outer tubs to reduce pooling.
4. Altered the user manuals to give instruction regarding cleaning and introduced cleaning cycles to the machines.
The details can be found on pages 15 to 19 here:
http://classproceedings.ca/files/201...ed-Reasons.pdf
In this document the spiders are referred to as braces or cross pieces.
These modifications were made to reduce the incidences of bio-film build causing odors and corrosion of the spiders.
Please note that this is is the judge's 'decision' and reflects what she understood the Whirlpool representatives to have said.
Essentially if, anywhere in the internals of the machine there are recesses that can hold water this can, over time turn foul smelling. The usual places for this to happen are recesses in the hubs of the spiders, recesses in the rear wall of the outer drum (on the inside) and the folds of the boot or bellows. Most laundry aids can develop an alkalinity level that can cause corrosion of aluminium and its alloys, the spiders of these machines are made from die cast aluminium alloys.
The information on the laundry aids is, in most cases, available on the internet, just search for the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for the aid you use and find out what it can do, a pH value above about 8.5 will cause corrosion of aluminium and its alloys, and check what it is incompatible with, some just say 'oxidizing agents" aluminium is an oxidizing agent. Understand what you are reading.
Sodium Carbonate (washing soda) is corrosive to aluminium and its alloys, it is found in most powdered detergents, the powdered 'Oxi' products, 'Affresh' and Tide Washing machine cleaner. It is also hygroscopic so any left over will attract water from the air ensuring that it remains damp and corrosive.

[Mike from back east]

Seems there may be a class action lawsuit on the issue of smelly HE front loading washing machines may by Whirlpool for themselves and Sears.