Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
Insurance company will not know about the supercharger because it is not tired to the vin(they will not cover the supercharger in the event of an accident or a theft, but the car will still be covered), but that 3.8 is a terrible engine. Even after they changed the intake manifold in 1999, its still an under powered turd. My 1st car was a 1994 V6 Mustang, and It had both head gaskets fail at around 40k miles, it was completely stock and I didnt abuse it at all
I wouldn't go that far. That's why the 5.0 and (later on) the 4.6 were options and probably why the 3.8 with the blower was done away with. Everyone nuthugs the 3800 v6 from GM and that's got similar issues and only slightly more power. Reminds me of my times in Ranger forums where people asked why the SOHC 2.3L was such a dog...duh, Ford offers two "better" options for power purposes back then.
But, yeah, that powerful 145 horsepower pre-1999 model 3.8L, I can agree with there.
Thats about 5 times what the belt should cost. The belt is around 30 bucks, hell Jiffy Lube will change the belt for around $100 including the cost of the belt
Really?? yeah this was someone that someone at my son's job had used its a goodyear but he is a certified mechanic and DH and I thought it sounded very high on top of which he told us we needed new brakes and roters etc...they do squeek a little the front and I can see the Roters or Break Pads, but the guy we bought it from had it serviced about a year ago we saw the paperwork so I had a feeling this guy was a little ummm Rip Off....but New Brakes? our guy who did the 1st inspection didnt come across these issues other than we might need new Pads for the Front Breaks
Thats about 5 times what the belt should cost. The belt is around 30 bucks, hell Jiffy Lube will change the belt for around $100 including the cost of the belt
I know when my husband called american muscle he said it was like 30 bucks and then to have someone do it shouldn't be more than 100.00
Really?? yeah this was someone that someone at my son's job had used its a goodyear but he is a certified mechanic and DH and I thought it sounded very high on top of which he told us we needed new brakes and roters etc...they do squeek a little the front and I can see the Roters or Break Pads, but the guy we bought it from had it serviced about a year ago we saw the paperwork so I had a feeling this guy was a little ummm Rip Off....but New Brakes? our guy who did the 1st inspection didnt come across these issues other than we might need new Pads for the Front Breaks
Here's your sign. No real or good mechanic would EVER change brake pads without replacing the rotors too or at least turning them (if they even can on that model). No one good would do that. That's shadetree mechanic wrenching there. It makes no sense to put a fresh pair of pads on a gouged or warped rotor. It will eat it up in no time flat.
BTW, the belt isn't too tricky. All you need is one wrench or ratchet if it has a tension pully, which I'm sure it does. Put the wrench or ratchet with the correct size socket on the tension pully center bolt and either pull up or push down. You'll have to see which way releaves tension. Slip the old belt off and slide the new one back on according to the belt diagram on the front radiator support under the hood. Fish it through and around all pullies as shown. Put your wrench or ratchet with a socket back on the center bolt of the tension pully and release tension again until it's on. The belt is self centering. It's not rocket science and worth $140 bucks here.
BTW, the belt isn't too tricky. All you need is one wrench or ratchet if it has a tension pully, which I'm sure it does. Put the wrench or ratchet with the correct size socket on the tension pully center bolt and either pull up or push down. You'll have to see which way releaves tension. Slip the old belt off and slide the new one back on according to the belt diagram on the front radiator support under the hood. Fish it through and around all pullies as shown. Put your wrench or ratchet with a socket back on the center bolt of the tension pully and release tension again until it's on. The belt is self centering. It's not rocket science and worth $140 bucks here.
Yep $140 will buy a cheap tool set and a Chilton/Haynes manual. Small investment to save your self in the long run.
$5 says that bolt is somewhere between 15mm and 18mm too!
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
