Is Wilmington, NC that bad? (Asheville, Washington: apartment complexes, rental, homeowners association)

[goldenage1]

I read Frogmanjake's whole post and it's a nice appreciation of Wilmington. Thanks for sharing.

[coco29]

Let me help u out a little

I usually don't take time to post to BBs but since nobody is offering up any kind of useful perspective I feel obligated to address your concerns. I grew up in the DC/MD area, with all that entails in terms of access to museums, parks, traffic that makes a 10 mile commute into an hour of mentally draining stop and crawl, crime, multiple languages spoken everywhere you go, etc. I lived in Wilmington from 1989-1994, and I moved to MD for 12 years, then back to Wilmington in 2006, which was a quick as I could make it happen. I have to assume those who say the traffic is bad are from Mayberry. There is no traffic unless one of the drawbridges are up, or maybe a little bit when crossing from the Leland/Southport side of the Cape Fear into town in the morning, as many do.

In 1990 there was NO economy of any scale. The mall was half full and there was no real industry except Corning, a fiber optic plant that is still here and is as large as it has ever been. One thing you have to have clear in your head is that Wilmington is full of people who choose to be here in spite of the relative inability to climb any kind of corporate ladder. We're a small to medium size town in most ways. No way are you going to have the professional opportunities here you would get in Charlotte, or Raleigh, or DC, etc. If you open your own business, please don't make it a restaurant, we've got plenty and it won't work. But if you work in any health field, or for the university, or for PPD (PPDi) international, which just built a huge hi-rise on the river downtown a few years back, or for Corning, or you work in the financial services sector (broker, insurance, etc), or you are retired on pension and are looking for a place with practically no property tax compared to where you live now in NYor NJ, you gotta be loving it here, so that's basically what we have ended up with. We are geographically challenged, and we are a suburb of nothing with a larger economy, so there is no similar opportunity like living in NJ with the family and working in NY city, or on a farm in the suburbs of Philly and commuting in to work. We are self contained and the first "real city" is 2 hours up I40 west.

I am self employed in the insurance business and we do pretty well. I know school teachers that moved here from NY who make a 70K pension and live very well here. You can get a lot more house here than you can in more metropolitan areas, or you can get the same size house and have a lot more to live on. The best things to do here are free. Go to the beach, but not in the summer time, leave it for the tourists. I had a friend come down on July 4 this year and the beach crowd was HUGE, and he thought this was a normal thing. In October on any weekday you will have Wrightsville Beach to yourself. As for crime, give me a break. Small town rules apply. I leave my keys in the car most places. There are some areas of concern, but if you have an internet connection you are already too affluent to live there. Just so you know, any area like that is likely to be the area over close to the Cape Fear river but not quite in the historic district downtown. But it's not the "hood". Cops here walk the beat in "bad" areas and do a pretty good job but it's not like they are up against big gangs or anything. Again, the crime rate might be lower in Mayberry but realistically it's nothing at all unless you hang out by the corner down by the river at 3am. I had my oldest kid in private school her first year, but then moved her and the other two to public because it's that good. All of them are in advanced programs doing very well, the public schools function as you would expect small town school to, that is, they are full of teachers who care about the kids in a way that is only possible or expected in the South.

Speaking of hospitality, yes, we do speak a little slowly. Yes, if we ask you how you are, we want an answer. Yes, we think talking on a cell phone while talking to someone in person is rude but we'll wait for you to finish so go ahead. All around town at take out restaurants are signs reminding you to complete your call before you order. So if you come down from up North, we will expect you to use some manners, and slow down a bit, hold the door open for the elderly even if they take a while to get there, let people into the flow of traffic and basically behave like you would like to be treated. Most of our transplants get along well with these ideas like they have been waiting their whole lives for the clerk at the gas station to say "come back and see us".

As for the south side of the river, there are some real quality golf courses and communities around them the sprang up in the last 15 years where before there were only trailiers and farms. We're talking about gated communities with over 1000 homes in them and there are several. Needless to say, mostly retirees and people who commute across the river to work. All of the things that were needed to service all of the needs of these people are now here as well, movie theaters, outdoor lifestyle malls, WalMart, you name it. But do not anticipate an experience anything like you are used to anywhere. Often I hear that you can't get a good bagel, or you can't go to a world class museum or show, (we do have a great historical theatre -Thalian Hall), and you can't find good soul food, or something equally obscure, and these transplants are correct. So live without, and embrace the concept of biscuits and gravy. Be a new southerner and be proud of it.

Here in Wilmington we have managed to make the world a little slower and a little smaller and we don't want it faster or "better" if it means we can't get a seat on the grass with the kids at the outdoor movies at the beach. We don't mind the line at Kilwins Ice Cream downtown because we always see somebody we know. In business meetings or PTA meetings we say the pledge of allegiance and sometimes a prayer for a sick neighbor. We don't care how you did it up north, but we'll listen to you tell us because you were nice enough to come down and live among us and -bless your heart- you brought your money with you. So to answer your question, Wilmington is not that bad, not nearly that bad but we would appreciate if you would bring your open mind. And by the way, how is your family?

Better? BTW I read the whole post too hehe, My family is well & urs? Thanks for the post Frogmanjake

[kathy.bentz]

OK- my turn. I am relocating to Wilmington, am currently trying to secure a spot to rent prior to arriving so we can transition into a place vs. search when I get there. I keep seeing places in the "Monkey Junction" area. Ironically, no one will answer the crime question. The constant suggestion is to check out local websites, etc.

However, what I'm politely not asking is what roads to avoid, apartments or complexes to avoid? Its not that I'm snotty or any of that, its a safety issues as my my kids are country bumpkins. Likewise, they are in high school, and being a teen is tough enough these days. I want to make this transition as smooth and comfortable as possible for them. I'm not opposed to living in a suburb, and I don't mind driving as living in Maine requires driving anywhere you want to get to. I think in the interest of sales, people renting properties are hesitant to give me the answer I need. All I'm trying to do is make an informed decision!

Can you all make some recommendations for properties or neighborhoods or complexes where a country bumpkin can fit in? My goal is that the kids can have the four wheeler they so desperately want, a decent high school, but still have access to Wilmington. Yes... they wear bubba boots and talk like a Main-ah!

We are really looking forward to moving to the Wilmington community. I'm anxious to see some of the architecture mentioned, the quaint stores, the college, the southern beaches. Ready to get back to warmer weather more consistently, won't miss ice and snow of Maine, and be closer to my family that lives in the south.

I truly appreciate any feedback!!! Thanks all, Kathy

[Jkgourmet]

Originally Posted by kathy.bentz

OK- my turn. I am relocating to Wilmington, am currently trying to secure a spot to rent prior to arriving so we can transition into a place vs. search when I get there. I keep seeing places in the "Monkey Junction" area. Ironically, no one will answer the crime question. The constant suggestion is to check out local websites, etc.

However, what I'm politely not asking is what roads to avoid, apartments or complexes to avoid? Its not that I'm snotty or any of that, its a safety issues as my my kids are country bumpkins. Likewise, they are in high school, and being a teen is tough enough these days. I want to make this transition as smooth and comfortable as possible for them. I'm not opposed to living in a suburb, and I don't mind driving as living in Maine requires driving anywhere you want to get to. I think in the interest of sales, people renting properties are hesitant to give me the answer I need. All I'm trying to do is make an informed decision!

Can you all make some recommendations for properties or neighborhoods or complexes where a country bumpkin can fit in? My goal is that the kids can have the four wheeler they so desperately want, a decent high school, but still have access to Wilmington. Yes... they wear bubba boots and talk like a Main-ah!

We are really looking forward to moving to the Wilmington community. I'm anxious to see some of the architecture mentioned, the quaint stores, the college, the southern beaches. Ready to get back to warmer weather more consistently, won't miss ice and snow of Maine, and be closer to my family that lives in the south.

I truly appreciate any feedback!!! Thanks all, Kathy

Kathy, I can't help answer your specific questions. But I do think that you would be far better off if you made a quick trip yo the area BEFORE you rent something. The Internet is great for research, but you'll never get the feel of an apt complex - or the neighborhood - that way. Especially with kids, you really need to consider buying a plane ticket for yourself, renting a car, and viewing these places face to face.

Just my 2 cents.

[codytabbys]

I'm from Cheyenne, wy and you do not want to live there because of the bad apression bad spirits and its got some bad spirital warefare and some people are demonly pazets and too many homeless people here who are lazy and people like to steal and rip you off here in Cheyenne, Wy and Cheyenne, Wy is prietty the getal area everywhere preitty much runned down. Not enough true christian followers here in Cheyenne, wy. The only positive side to this town is if your elderly or have a disabilitie or are black or hispanic your treated better and get some help with stuff other than that I would choose anywhere but Cheyenne, Wy. My dream is to live in Wilmington, NC and move there one day hopefully and I read lots of good stuff about Wilmington, NC and its beautiful and I hear its got more laid back people there and its gots lots of christian stuff there and its on the bible belt and its got a really nice beach. But how ever I have not been to Wilmington, NC nor I've lived there but would love too. All I can say is if your living in Wilmington, NC stay there don't move to Cheyenne, Wy unless your more hispanic or elderly or black or have a disabilitie. Sometimes disabilitie people and elderly people don't get treated the best either here in Cheyenne, Wy and the hispanic get treated better here. If I could move to Wilmington, NC I would in a heart beat but I'm not able to now at this moment and time due to personal stuff however I'm working on it to move to Wilmington, NC on gods timming. I'm praying to get out of Cheyenne, Wy so keep me in prayer. I would love to live in a less windy place and lot warmer place and by the beach or close to the beach and where theres more to due. Anyone have any comments or anything to say just tell me. I would love to know more about Wilmington, NC.

[faniadv]

I came 7 years ago from Bay Area (CA), people who complain about traffic is because they've never lived in a big city, it probably will take you no more than 5 minutes to cross a traffic light (when traffic is heavy), nothing is farther than 15 or 20 minutes. Like everywhere else there are good schools and not so good, Covington is a year round school, most people like it, Parsley, Bradley and pretty much all the Elementary schools are good, Mary C. Williams does not have a good reputation, but I have to tell you my kid went there, and he loved it, he was straight As, and qualified for the gifted program.
Middle schools: both my kids went to Myrtle Grove excellent school, and New Hanover HS both in the Lyceum program.
I was afraid at the beginning about the HS because it's downtown, but dont' get any ideas, no there are no metal detectors, school it's pretty good in sports and kids are better taken care for that reason, it is located downtown.
Don't think it is like a big city downtwn not at all, this is a small town, no matter where you go, you will always find someone who knows someone who knows you.
It is great to raise kids, when my older was in HS I was informed but never concern of his whereabouts he could not be farther than 15 minutes away, you have that control over where they are, I cannot say it would have been the same in the Bay Area.
Houses, well right now your best bet are foreclosures like everywhere else, one advise, try to get something without association, even though the fees are probably no more than 20 dollars per month, like everywhere else the Association could be a really pain... that's the one thing I regret, other than that, I live in a nice neighborhood, and if the house market is going up or down I dont care I like it here and I'm happy with my mortgage.

[kjkrunner]

Originally Posted by faniadv

I came 7 years ago from Bay Area (CA), people who complain about traffic is because they've never lived in a big city, it probably will take you no more than 5 minutes to cross a traffic light (when traffic is heavy), nothing is farther than 15 or 20 minutes. Like everywhere else there are good schools and not so good, Covington is a year round school, most people like it, Parsley, Bradley and pretty much all the Elementary schools are good, Mary C. Williams does not have a good reputation, but I have to tell you my kid went there, and he loved it, he was straight As, and qualified for the gifted program.
Middle schools: both my kids went to Myrtle Grove excellent school, and New Hanover HS both in the Lyceum program.
I was afraid at the beginning about the HS because it's downtown, but dont' get any ideas, no there are no metal detectors, school it's pretty good in sports and kids are better taken care for that reason, it is located downtown.
Don't think it is like a big city downtwn not at all, this is a small town, no matter where you go, you will always find someone who knows someone who knows you.
It is great to raise kids, when my older was in HS I was informed but never concern of his whereabouts he could not be farther than 15 minutes away, you have that control over where they are, I cannot say it would have been the same in the Bay Area.
Houses, well right now your best bet are foreclosures like everywhere else, one advise, try to get something without association, even though the fees are probably no more than 20 dollars per month, like everywhere else the Association could be a really pain... that's the one thing I regret, other than that, I live in a nice neighborhood, and if the house market is going up or down I dont care I like it here and I'm happy with my mortgage.

Hi,
Planning on moving to Wilmington in 10 or 11 months from Wisconsin. Refuse to go back to apt life since I've owned my own home for 14 years. I've live in the same place my whole life, so I'm not quite ready to buy a home until I've been in the community a few years and things setttle into place. Hope to rent a single family home, maybe foreclosure, whatever. Have a young child and am on a tight budget. Nervous about the quality of schools, just because we have pretty amazing public schools here, just hate the winter. Don't want to do private schools unless it's absolutely neccessary - just don't like the whole elitest attitude about them. If my child can't get an excellent education at a public school, I will move to a new city until I find one that she can. Plan to visit in two weeks and hoping to find some useful info before then so that we can make the most of our visit.

[goldenage1]

Originally Posted by kjkrunner

...Nervous about the quality of schools, just because we have pretty amazing public schools here, just hate the winter.

Hampstead has highly rated public schools. It should be possible to find a low-rent place.

[Wrmswmr]

People criticizing Wilmington are either used to living in a bubble, or never lived anywhere else. I lived in Wilmington (grew up in the North, yes a dreaded Yankee), NC for 5 years, moved away for a job, and then jumped at the chance to come back. One piece of advice - downtown is great, but don't live there. Crime is pretty much confined to the random trailer parks, 11-12 city blocks leading to downtown, and some of the dumpier apt. complexes. The "crime" can easily be avoided....none of these are areas where you would ever need to spend any time. When buying a house, you can pretty much drive through a neighborhood and be able to gauge whether or not you'd want to live there...like anyplace else. You can live here and feel perfectly safe....felt much safer in Wilmington than other places (including other Southern cities). Education...well, just avoid the downtown schools. Hampstead - good idea...a bit more rural, but Topsail High School is an excellent school. New Hanover High School & Laney are not nec. the best high schools...Hoggard is a good school. New Hanover HS is likely more dangerous and not the top pick....because it's the school where anyone living in the downtown area would go. Schools towards Wrightsville Beach area, Greenville Loop/S. College are fine. People who complain about how Wilmington is NOW are people who lived here 20 years ago when there were no people. Progress happens....it happens everywhere, esp. in areas where people WANT to live. People move here because they LOVE it.

[NM posts]

I just wish we had good Chinese food.