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Start a new thread on your desired combo. 715 rwhp, turbos, and 9 or 10 second cars are out of my league and knowledge but I am sure someone can answer. Your best bet is a dedicated car forum for knowledge, maybe a comparable mustang forum.
All I can say, is when you race with that much power you have to upgrade EVERYTHING and expect things to break - mostly the rear ends if you use drag tires. Don't forget you will be entering required roll cage territory if you want to take a stroll down the drag strip (sounds like it may already have one). I get chased out myself if I don't have a helmet for my 13 second car but sub 11 requires the cage. Building a street/strip car is always a compromise remember - don't forget 99% of your driving will be on the street. You don't want a car that you just end up trailering to the strip.
Agreed. Thats why im going to find a dedicated drag car that can be used for some street driving . Ill start a new thread .
The Edelbrock Pre engineered package consists of the Heads and Airgap Dual Plane Intake , cam, and carb ; instead of using their cam i went with a Lunati roller cam that was more aggressive...and instead of using their carb i went with a Mighty Demon 800 cfm Double Pumper with annular boosters . Plus long tube Hooker Headers and straight thru mufflers. The stock gross h.p. was 390 and i have no doubt at all that its now 540 gross h.p. according to Edelbrocks chart and according to how much faster the car is. If you dont, then God bless you .
Im not going to argue with you but have you actually had it ON a dyno or are you just guessing?
Im not going to argue with you but have you actually had it ON a dyno or are you just guessing?
You have been arguing . No, i havent had it on a dyno...but im going by the Manufacturer who has obviously tested their Pre Engineered Packages with resulting online chart --- take it up with Edelbrock and not me. End.
You know, given the weight of the car, 1/4 mile terminal speed can be used to calculate HP. Probably 1/8 mile terminal speed works too, although it's going to be more affected by technique, how well or not your tires hook up, etc. etc.
Or you can buy various G-monitor type devices, look a bit like a radar detector, they measure acceleration and again given the car's weight, you can calculate HP. Given the levels of cash you are throwing around with these cars, this might be an OK investment for you.
Or, and this one may be harder for you since the car wants to spin in 3rd even at low speeds - get out somewhere such that you can drive at a given speed, and accelerate at WOT in one gear. Let's say your car won't spin at 60 in 4th - you get a buddy to time your acceleration from 60 to say 70, then time the coast-down from 70 back to 60. F=M X A, and Bob's your uncle.
Getting back to practicality - OP I think you are going to be finding out why 'vettes are not real popular drag cars when you start breaking rear end/suspension pieces. How about a Camero, 'stang, something like that, with taking the Camero as an example a 350 more or less built to the same spec as the ZZ-4 crate engine, a traditional 4-speed, and something between 3.73 to 4.11 gears? Such a beast would be fast enough to be interesting, cheaper to maintain, a better car to learn on than your 'vette. For better streetability, get a Richmond Gear 6-speed, and whatever rear end gears that would make the first 4 gears equivalent to a 4-speed with a 4.11 or even 4.33 or 4.56 if you want to optimize more for 1/8 mile...
That turbocharged stang you posted up about is *sweet*, and you could not build it for what the guy is selling it for, true enough. But I don't think it's going to be the best thing to learn on.
Getting back to practicality - OP I think you are going to be finding out why 'vettes are not real popular drag cars when you start breaking rear end/suspension pieces. How about a Camero, 'stang, something like that, with taking the Camero as an example a 350 more or less built to the same spec as the ZZ-4 crate engine, a traditional 4-speed, and something between 3.73 to 4.11 gears? Such a beast would be fast enough to be interesting, cheaper to maintain, a better car to learn on than your 'vette. For better streetability, get a Richmond Gear 6-speed, and whatever rear end gears that would make the first 4 gears equivalent to a 4-speed with a 4.11 or even 4.33 or 4.56 if you want to optimize more for 1/8 mile...
But the dude has a big block. Why step down to the small block. ZZ4's are good engines, but you have to replace the heads if you want the most power out of them.
Yeah the wink link is the IRS, but you can beef them up in the aftermarket. There are several drag vettes I have heard of at this aforementioned vette forum. My vette has like the weakest rear end of all the production models that exist (aluminum dana in the 80 model) but suprisingly it's lived through 80 or more runs down the quarter mile strip. That's with street tires however, I have no doubt it will break with sticky tires. I don't push my luck.
But read on, he is buying a 5.0 mustang. Excellent choice for a drag car.
I'm going on the radical assumption that a somewhat less powerful car might be easier to learn good technique with, and that a solid rear axle would be both less prone to break and cheaper to fix when it does.
A 5.0 stang would be a good drag car, but I don't think the 1100 BHP twin turbo setup would be the best thing for a guy with relatively limited experience.
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