Can I tow with a 2007 Cadillac DTS with Northstar engine? (vehicles, braking)
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I am thinking of buying a 2007 Cadillac DTS with a V8 Northstar engine. It has 52,500 miles. I want to tow a 16.5 foot fishing boat but only a few miles to and from the boat ramp. I know there was concern with the Northstar engine. This car will be used to drive 13 miles round trip to work and a weekend 9 mile round trip to the boat ramp. Twice a year the boat will will be towed a round trip of 200 miles. I am replacing a 94 Cadillac Deville with 169,000 miles that has been an excellent car. I tend to take good care of my vehicles and drive them until I no longer feel confident on road trips. My wife drives a 2005 Town Car with 60,000 miles so this will not be our main car. Should I be concerned with the Northstar engine? The carfax was clean. Thanks,
I wouldn't. That car is only rated for 1000 lbs. It's just not set up to tow.
Yes and no. The factory hitch is rated for 1000lbs, but they do sell aftermarket hitches that are beefier and rated class 2, which is 3500 lbs. If he bought one of those, he could probably tow a small boat (not sure how much his boat and trailer weighs.)
What kind of boat? Aluminum fishing boat or a fiberglass runabout
My buddy used to tow two big seadoo GTX 3 sweaters with a small Subaru with a 4 banger
Yes and no. The factory hitch is rated for 1000lbs, but they do sell aftermarket hitches that are beefier and rated class 2, which is 3500 lbs. If he bought one of those, he could probably tow a small boat (not sure how much his boat and trailer weighs.)
Well, we can just throw a class IV on it then, right? 10k is better than 35k? That car is just not meant to tow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by City Guy997S
Tow it...........16 ft boat/motor/trailer/ combo can't weigh more than 1500 lbs and for all those short trips it will be more than fine.
Boat/motor/trailer/coolers/other misc equipment/fuel, etc, it adds up.
What how quick he will overheat that transmission. Single or tandem axle? Rolling resistance is going to me more strain on the trans and torque converter. Braking can be an issue too.
It would probably be fine on the shorter trips, but the 200 mile round trip, that could be bad.
Well, we can just throw a class IV on it then, right? 10k is better than 35k? That car is just not meant to tow.
No, you can't. No manufacturer makes a class 4 hitch for the car, class 2 is as high as it goes. You're also not too familiar with the Northstar equipped vehicles. They used to be rated at 2000 lbs towing from the factory. The later models, (with the exact same engine) were rated at 1000. Clearly, it was due to a change in the tow hitch.
It's a large, long car with decent power. Towing 2500lbs or less is just fine with the proper hitch. Add an upgraded tranny cooler and it'll be even better.
No, you can't. No manufacturer makes a class 4 hitch for the car, class 2 is as high as it goes. You're also not too familiar with the Northstar equipped vehicles. They used to be rated at 2000 lbs towing from the factory. The later models, (with the exact same engine) were rated at 1000. Clearly, it was due to a change in the tow hitch.
It's a large, long car with decent power. Towing 2500lbs or less is just fine with the proper hitch. Add an upgraded tranny cooler and it'll be even better.
I'm not sweating the engine, the engine can handle it. The rest of the drivetrain is what is at risk.
I't has a long soft shift sequence between gears, adding the extra weight can be to much for the clutch packs.
Throwing an extra 1000 or so pounds in a car is one thing, but add it to a trailer, and rolling resistance, its a bit different.
He may be able to tow it, but there is risk in it. I personally wouldnt deviate more than 500 lbs from what is recommended. Engineers do have reasons why they do things, not just cuz its fun.
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