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That's not sun-faded. Your clear-coat is disintegrated and peeling. The only "under $50 fix" is to wet-sand it out, and get a couple cans of clear coat aerosol from your local parts store. Keep in mind that that is NOT going to be an ideal fix, but it will look a bit better than it does now.
Yep, sounds like a perfectly fine fix for a 20 year old civic. It's what I'd do on a car of that age.
My wife had a 98 accord with a similar problem. Before selling it I wet sanded and re-cleared the iffy areas. It wasn't perfect, but it got the car past the point where potential buyers didn't say "wow, that's really ugly".
That looks bad and is a lot more damaged than just faded paint. If you are not picky why not get a correct colour spray can of paint, mask off the area and give it a spray then clear coat with proper mated clear coat. I did this with a JeeP after pulling a dent out of the back corner and it acatually doesn't look that bad.
If you have some tools and skill you could fix this yourself.
He did raise a good idea about vinyl wrap though. Having just the roof done wont be too terribly expensive and probably cheaper and certainly quicker then painting it.
Do not let anyone talk you into doin a rattle can flat black paint job. Seems to be the rage for the Honda kidz these days.
Location: Democratic Peoples Republic of Redneckistan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vmaxnc
As long as the paint hasn't been cpenetrated, no. But unprotected paint has a limited lifespan.
My '95 F150 Stepside has the same issues on the roof and over the rear wheels. The pic in my files shows as being rotated 90 degrees to the right. Don't know why this one is off.
I redid a 95 or 96 (can't really recall) Ford extended cab stepside that was a custom factory conversion with all the flairs and wooden interior trim..I can't recall the exact name of the paint color but it was a red with like a pinkish tinted pearl in it..beautiful truck but the hood,top and back fenders were all losing the clearoat on them and the truck couldn't have been but about 5 or so years old..buddy it was sharp when it left me and I've saw it a few times over the years since and it still looks good..that factory clear must not have been anything but junk or shot super thin to save money.
Location: Democratic Peoples Republic of Redneckistan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tourian
Maybe but silver and reds do it too.
I think they just all were doing it wrong back then. Maybe the procedure or materials have gotten better but in my opinion pain jobs on cars have gotten worse. Maybe they don't oxidize like that any more but most cars have very thin paint that chips easy. I blame the EPA and the treehuggers for forcing automakers to use weak water based paint and less of it.
You are right about the look getting worse...I have a buddy with an 08 Z71 that I was noticing the other day the paint looks orange peeled and a bit tiger striped right from the factory..its a charcoal color and he bought it new so its not a wrecked truck..while he was there another friend pulled up in a 04 F150 heritage in black and red..his truc was slick as a whistle on the paint..the black was really deep and the red metallic was perfect with no tiger striping or anything..I think ford may be ahead on actual paint procedures and equipment..up until the 98/99 model year change Chevy could flat lay the paint out...their victory red,u8555 black and a few other colors were flawless..I. don't know what happened
I used to sell paint to an old-time bodyman who told me that Earl Scheib used some king of proprietary paint that wasn't an acceptable substrate for anything else on the market, so if he got a car in for repair that had an Earl Scheib paint job he would have to strip it down to the factory finish in order to get the new paint to stick.
My dad (former bodyman) has told me Earl Scheib repairs helped keep him in business.
Location: Democratic Peoples Republic of Redneckistan
11,078 posts, read 15,091,814 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deez Nuttz
My dad (former bodyman) has told me Earl Scheib repairs helped keep him in business.
Lmao.I hadn't heard that name in YEARS and actually just used it last night at my shop while bidding a horse trailer to paint...it had been previously painted with some cheap oil based enamel which faded instantly and I told the customer I was gonna have to sand blast the Earl Sheib paint job off there first before I painted it and he laughed his arse off
Talk of Ford trucks, I had bought a 1993 F150 new and the hood started flaking in 2 years from the inside out? I had it repainted under warranty. Over the years the roof also faded to grey, the truck was black. Today I own a 2002 toreador red F150 and the paint still looks great but I do keep it waxed. back in the day 80's I think it was my uncle bought a brand new red pontiac GTA and the paint faded so bad on that the wing looked like it was pink. Remember Chevy had that problem on white Luminas I think it was, where the paint sould strip off in chunks.
I'm so glad we are over those days of the fading paint jobs.
Cheap way to fix the Honda do it yourself with a rattle can or buy a air gun and compressor. Next step is to get a clothe "presidential roof kit" and next is to have a body shop paint it.
I have seen cars people painted at home with a roller or brush that actually do not look terrible (some do). I have also seen cars painted with spray cans of rustoleum. Those always look terrible. At least I have yet to see one that does not look terrible.
Normally if you get an Earl Schieb type paint job on a car, it is the car's last paint job. You do not put cheapo paint on a car that is not near the end of its life. My brother had one last eight years with no problems. He sold that bright purple thing with nary a peel or scrape on it. I am not advocating the cheapo shops as a great paint job, but they seem to do ok for a short time. But if there is any chance you will have it painted again, no get a better job to begin with (or get it painted over with another cheapo job.
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