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Gimmie...stop and think for a sec on the size of the pan bolt and how easy it would be to snap one off over torqueing. A hand usage with a wrench is about 14 lbs of hand torque. I have a stubby ratchet for small spaces, a 6 in ratchet and a 10 in racket for more leverage when needed. A mechanic has different sizes for different needs.
A pan is pressing a gskt material against the block to seal any possible future leakage. On pulling a pan you will see an indentation around the bolt hole where the bolt has pushed the metal. I always used a ball peen hammer to tap the area flat again.
If you were to look at a manual it will show the different torque recommended on all the engine bolts. Over time a mechanic knows just how much torque and what to use in an assembly.
Watch the NHRA on a sun meet and you will see a person torqueing down the heads with a long torque (clicker) dialed in ft lbs. I have watched and know what they are doing.
Snap a couple of bolts off and have to use a easyout or drill etc then you will respect the proper torque and what wrench to use. Many of us have been there at one time or another. I have repaired many of someones broken studs or bolts during my time.
You say "If you were to look at a manual it will show the different torque recommended on all the engine bolts. Over time a mechanic knows just how much torque and what to use in an assembly" and then you describe your ratchets.
It seems like you're saying to not over torque the bolts, but don't use a torque wrench, do it by feel. Is that what you mean? If so, isn't that the reason for using a torque wrench in the first place, to not under or over tighten?
I'm aware of the size of the pan bolts. That's why they're tightened in inch lbs.
I go back to the time period where there were NO torque wrenches. I saw my dad work on installing rods and to tighten (torque if you wish to call it) on Model A's and T's. I cut my teeth on early four bangers. I learned to install a pan and snug the bolts and dad would finish the tightening down.
After building engines (stock & performance) I've learned to memorize the the torque numbers needed in different applications.. And yes...we do get a feel after time.
I have over time hand tightened nuts or bolts and double checked with a "clicker" torque wrench to varify my work. Learned in one case a factory spec on a rod was 25 ft lbs whereas I torqued the same rod to 35 ft lbs on a HP engine for drag racing. Will not go into the specifics pertaining the difference as each builder has his particular reasons.
I'm not here to try and educate anyone only to point out a small part of a large equation.
It depends on how much I use them. Usually, I check them every 10 times of usage. I also have access to a digital calibration tool. It's not mine but I can use it anytime I need to. BTW, torque wrenches are not covered under the Craftsman lifetime warranty. Too many variables on misuse, dropping, and heavy-heavy duty commercial usage. You break it, you are SOL. Most of the lifetime warranty industrial torque wrenches command very high prices and expect to pay in excess of $400 for one. Just be careful what friends you lend it to when they ask. I haven't had a problem with any of mine yet.
As a kid growing up around cars my dad was working on I questioned him on how he knew what to do with different engines...his answer was........................
He memorized the timing degree...spk plug gaps...points setting...adjusting the tappets in the proper sequence etc etc etc. down the line. Many things to remember.
I was not as versed on all the car engines as he was but in my time did make it a science in my specialty and the numbers it curtailed. We all at one time or another find our nitch.
Thinking about it, the most logical explanation that 2 bolt heads are missing is that the oil pan was leaking there and someone with more brawn than brain decided to "gorilla torque" the bolts to stop the leak, and broke the heads off. Sorry to say this but that's the most probable explanation.
The good news is that usually the threaded part of the bolt left in the block is not stuck hard in place and is not too much of a bear to get out.
If I am right, could be that removing the stubs and putting 2 new bolts in and torquing to spec will reduce the leakage to a point you can live with, for not too much expense.
Even 14 Ft lbs is likely way too much for this. I wouldn't use a torque wrench either, but if i was that fussy, I would use a inch pound with a marker rod and not the click type.
You will ruin the gasket long before you snap off these little bolts.
These bolts are likely to be 1/4 20. or 6mm bolts anyway. Bolt diameter not head size.
To tighten these you start in the center and work in expanding X's and get it all nice and even.
If it is the loss of a bolt that is the worry then use star washers.
If 2 bolts are busted in the block a meathead did that, and you will have lots of fun getting them out.
I got my truck back from shop today and the oil pan bolts were missing not broke off. They put 2 new 1/4 " x 11/2" standard bolts back in and tightened rest of bolts. Seems to have done the trick.
I got my truck back from shop today and the oil pan bolts were missing not broke off. They put 2 new 1/4 " x 11/2" standard bolts back in and tightened rest of bolts. Seems to have done the trick.
Took a sec to understand what '1/4 " x 11/2" ' meant. I was doin' a Huh?
to me it is 1/4-20 x 1 1/2" . The 20 is threads per inch
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