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Old 10-01-2010, 08:00 AM
 
6,034 posts, read 10,699,112 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1200RT View Post
pull the engine to replace an oil pan??
Yes, on that truck they would have to. And the other poster is right, they don't have to pull it out completely, but they will have to pick it up by about 6" to get the pan off and replace the gasket. There is a crossmember on several Ford models that passes right under the oil pan, so there is no clearance to get it off without lifting the engine up. I happen to know this because the oil pan gasket needs to be replaced on my 96 Ford truck right now, and when I crawled under there to get at it, I found that it couldn't be done without hoisting the engine.
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Old 10-01-2010, 08:25 AM
 
Location: Full Time: N.NJ Part Time: S.CA, ID
6,116 posts, read 12,638,068 times
Reputation: 8687
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercury Cougar View Post
Yes, on that truck they would have to. And the other poster is right, they don't have to pull it out completely, but they will have to pick it up by about 6" to get the pan off and replace the gasket. There is a crossmember on several Ford models that passes right under the oil pan, so there is no clearance to get it off without lifting the engine up. I happen to know this because the oil pan gasket needs to be replaced on my 96 Ford truck right now, and when I crawled under there to get at it, I found that it couldn't be done without hoisting the engine.
nasty. that doesn't sound fun.
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Old 10-01-2010, 11:16 AM
 
Location: So. of Rosarito, Baja, Mexico
6,987 posts, read 21,962,690 times
Reputation: 7008
I once bought a car at a car auction for a low price. Similiar model (poorer condition) went for a higher price a few mins later. Thought that strange but after driving the car home looked underneath and saw the trans leaking fluid...shoot I thought...bad tranny. Thats probably why it sold cheap.

Jacked the car up and tightened some loose bolts snugly...stopped the leak and that car was a winner from that day on...no problems at all.

Later on found out the old couple had traded it in on a new Toyota at a dealearship thinking their trans was going out. Someone gave a bad diagnosis or snow job.

It is hard to snap a pan bolt using a small hand ratchet...using a torque wrench would be stupid.

I'm familiar with raising the engine off the motor mounts/frame enough for the pan to clear the sump and rods (been there and done that).
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Old 10-01-2010, 12:52 PM
 
Location: Southwest Nebraska
1,297 posts, read 4,776,778 times
Reputation: 910
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gimme3steps View Post
What's the condition of the gasket where the bolts are missing? Is the gasket bulging out? If so, just replacing the bolts won't help. To seal it properly, the gasket will have to be replaced.

Also, are you sure the bolts aren't broken off in the block?
I,m not sure, will be taking to my mechanic Monday to check out. Right now just going on what dealer said.
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Old 10-01-2010, 12:58 PM
 
Location: Southwest Nebraska
1,297 posts, read 4,776,778 times
Reputation: 910
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axle grease View Post
Pan bolts just don't fall out. Someone (a previous owner) started to pull the pan and said F it! Either that or he broke them off in the block. If so, don't panic, that is what they make easy outs or screw extractors for. Those bolts should all be torqued following a torque sequence in a service manual. Most are in two or three steps. Buy the manual for best results. Use a digital torque wrench if possible. I would take out another bolt that is easily accessible and use it as a pattern to get two new ones to match. Try putting them all back in and see if it leaks. If not, you have fixed it. If so, the pan will have to be removed and a new gasket installed. I would recommend The Right Stuff or a rubber gasket. Cork sucks and always seems to develop leaks over time. That cross member is in the way of the pan on a '95. I used to have a '96 and it was the same way. You have to lift or pull the engine to clear it. The pick-up won't clear otherwise.
http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...sket_Maker.htm
Great info. I went to dealer and a parts shop and both said you have to take out another bolt so as to match one of theirs. Thats why I will be letting my mech. fix it. Seems more to it than inserting 2 bolts. Also I am disabled so my wife would be doing the work.
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Old 10-01-2010, 03:22 PM
 
6,367 posts, read 16,899,015 times
Reputation: 5935
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Bagu View Post
It is hard to snap a pan bolt using a small hand ratchet...using a torque wrench would be stupid.
Not using a torque wrench would be stupid.

Did you mean impact wrench or an air ratchet?
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Old 10-01-2010, 04:30 PM
 
Location: So. of Rosarito, Baja, Mexico
6,987 posts, read 21,962,690 times
Reputation: 7008
I have different size air wrenches...small hand assembly to full 350 lb impact torque wrench.

What I was referring too was a hand ratchet and NOT using a (clicker) torque wrench.

Of the Clicker I had a small one and a Large one for heavy duty needs that would not need a air impact. You guys know what I mean...geeeez.

Torqueing a head on a V8 would require a hand clicker...on a pan bolt a small hand ratchet will do the job nicely.
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Old 10-01-2010, 07:58 PM
 
3,511 posts, read 5,316,116 times
Reputation: 1577
This is the type I have. I have both the 3/8" and 1/2". The 1/2" is good from 25 ft lbs-250 ft lbs and the 3/8" is good from 5 ft lbs- 80 ft lbs. The 3/8" is what you will be using on a project such as this. When I bought these about 11 years ago they were the best ones Sears offered in the Craftsman lineup. These have proved to be a wise investment and have worked nicely along with being durable. Always set them back to 0 when you are done and wipe them down. Now, the new totally digital ones are available and are on my to get list.Sears: Appliances, Tools, Electronics, Apparel and more from Craftsman, Kenmore, Diehard and other Leading Brands Why do I need them when I have the others? Well, just cause! Sears: Appliances, Tools, Electronics, Apparel and more from Craftsman, Kenmore, Diehard and other Leading Brands
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Old 10-02-2010, 08:41 AM
 
6,367 posts, read 16,899,015 times
Reputation: 5935
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Bagu View Post
I have different size air wrenches...small hand assembly to full 350 lb impact torque wrench.

What I was referring too was a hand ratchet and NOT using a (clicker) torque wrench.

Of the Clicker I had a small one and a Large one for heavy duty needs that would not need a air impact. You guys know what I mean...geeeez.

Torqueing a head on a V8 would require a hand clicker...on a pan bolt a small hand ratchet will do the job nicely.
I'm confused. Are you saying to not use a torque wrench on the oil pan bolts?
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Old 10-02-2010, 08:42 AM
 
6,367 posts, read 16,899,015 times
Reputation: 5935
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axle grease View Post
This is the type I have. I have both the 3/8" and 1/2". The 1/2" is good from 25 ft lbs-250 ft lbs and the 3/8" is good from 5 ft lbs- 80 ft lbs. The 3/8" is what you will be using on a project such as this. When I bought these about 11 years ago they were the best ones Sears offered in the Craftsman lineup. These have proved to be a wise investment and have worked nicely along with being durable. Always set them back to 0 when you are done and wipe them down. Now, the new totally digital ones are available and are on my to get list.Sears: Appliances, Tools, Electronics, Apparel and more from Craftsman, Kenmore, Diehard and other Leading Brands Why do I need them when I have the others? Well, just cause! Sears: Appliances, Tools, Electronics, Apparel and more from Craftsman, Kenmore, Diehard and other Leading Brands

How often do you have them calibrated?
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