Thinking about a new roof (Atlanta: HOA, insurance, credit)

[G Grasshopper]

When we bought our house, just over 2 years ago, we were told by 3 different roofing companies that it would need a new roof in perhaps 3 years. So I am not thinking about replacing it this year, but since I am feeling that I should do it next year, I am just trying to get myself prepared for it. (It takes me a long time to figure out exactly what I want.) So here are some considerations:

1. The gutters are not covered, and are always getting filled up with stuff - I have a live oak overhanging the house in the front and a burr oak in the back - and subsequently I have to get them cleaned out often. Even then, a good rain seems to make them overflow.

2. There is no radiant barrier. I am wondering if that would be a good thing to put in while in the process of getting a new roof. Do they take off the old shingles, or just put a new layer over?

3. I am not sure about what the ventilation is like in the attic. I know it is beastly hot up there in the summer, but I feel that I should at least know how much ventilation there is, as it would help me to know if I need more. Perhaps I should get some kind of energy conservation company to come out and assess my attic/insulation/ventilation/ducts before I decide anything about the roof. Any thoughts on that?

4. I will probably put at least one "sun tube" in at the time of re-roofing to get some more sunlight into the interior of the house. We had one of these installed in out house in CA and loved it, and my mom, when she lived in Tucson, had one in an interior bathroom, which was really nice, but I haven't heard much about these in TX. Any ideas on that?

So I am just interested in people's thoughts about what they would be doing (or have had done) when getting a new roof. All opinions welcome.

Thanks. Grasshopper

[Trainwreck20]

Have you considered a metal roof? They do cost more, but are virtually indestructible and will not generally need repairs (even after hail) and will not need replacing in your lifetime, most likely.

That said, your points:
1 - gutters. Do you need gutters at all? Our house has enough overhang that the rain (well, if there was such a thing as rain) gets directed far enough from our house that it is not really a problem and any rain 'sheets' are not in traffic areas. We have about 8' of gutter on our home, located across the front porch, and have managed quite well w/o additional gutters. Of course, you may need more, but it is just something to consider. Our short gutter does need at least annual (if not semi-annual) clean-out. My in-laws have covered gutters and they help a LOT, but you will still need to clean out angles in downspouts occasionally, or sweep of the screening (if they are not a screen-free design).

2 - Not sure on radiant barriers, if you are approaching it strictly from an economics angle, you will need an expert to tell you how much it will help. As for whether they overlay shingles - if you are looking to save a few bucks, then you can have a second layer of shingles added - unless that has already been done. Once you have two layers on, you pretty much need to pull them all off the next time you re-shingle due to weight issues.

3 - Similar to '2', you probably need an expert to see if it is worth the money to add a ridge vent if there isn't one already (how old is the house? and the current roof?). Attics can get very hot, but if the insulation is good, that in of itself is not the major source of cooling costs in the house. Ventilation in the attic makes it more comfortable to store stuff in, though, if you use it much.

4 - I see sun tubes (and sky lights) occasionally, but they are not necessarily cheap to add if done with good materials and workmanship. They do add another potential source for leaks, and they may have to put up with hail and possible degradation from sun and tree sap/pollen effects. Also, it is an excellent route for additional heat load in your house, but any route for adding more ambient sun will have the same effect.

[G Grasshopper]

Sorry, I should have mentioned that the house was built in 1996, and I believe the current roof has not been replaced. I need to check with the HOA as to whether a metal roof is allowed.
As to going without gutters, I had thought of harvesting some rain water, especially if I were to get a metal roof, but since that would require gutters, and maybe I don't need them, I have to wonder about the cost. Both sides of the house are rocks, so it would be no problem to have the water shed there. I would need to have gutters on the front and back, due to what is out there. I guess I should have checked with the HOA before posting. I will do that right now. Thanks.

[Trainwreck20]

Be aware that a metal roof will cost ~2X as much, give or take, which means you 'have' to stay in the house for at least one more shingle roof lifespan (~15 years in most of central Texas) to break even. Also, I don't know which HOA you live in, but ours is definitely amenable to metal roofs and you can get a variance from the architecture committee to allow it, even if it is not in the rules. Make sure you find out what the committee thinks before you take a knee-jerk 'no' response from someone just reading the bylaws. Stone houses with metal roofs are generally one of the more aesthetic combinations for metal roofs, and if you are partially hidden in the trees anyway, it shouldn't stand out too much anyway.

Metal roofs are also considered 'green' - although initial materials are expensive, they reflect sunlight better and reduce energy costs, they require less frequent replacement, and they are pretty much 100% recyclable when they are replaced.


Btw, on a tangential thought, a co-worker recently put on a metal roof and solar panels. Between his federal tax credit and AE rebate, he is looking at a 7 year payback for the solar panel investment and the panels mount on the metal roof w/o needing perforation (they sort of clamp on the seams). He is in Germany right now, so I can't get more details, but he is running his meter 'backward' (sort of, they actually install another outbound meter) a good percent of the time. He just got it all installed a month or two ago, but it will be interesting to see what percent of his annual bill is offset - initial indications are that it might be almost even and he will not pay any net electricity cost other than hook up fees.

[atxcio]

1) I'm a bit wary of gutter covers; the way the rain comes down here, it comes with such volume that I think covers will hamper their effectiveness (despite their claims that it won't). Yes, the leaves are a hassle and you have to keep them clean to work... But I think that's the only way to have them work efficiently in our kind of storms (I have oaks too, the sure drop a lot of leaves for "evergreen" trees).

2) The roofers do not get into the attic, so I don't know that it would be any cheaper to do a radiant barrier while having the roof change. But perhaps the roofer will give you a deal because you are doing all this work. Personally, I'd do every energy efficiency upgrade I could do -- they are well worth it in comfort and money saved in the future (electric rates are going up, remember). If you are doing the radiant barrier, you could also have additional insulation blown in to increase the R value of your attic.

3) For ventilation, if you don't already have a ridge vent I would do that (the roofer can do that without too much additional expense). You might also consider a "cool color", basically a lighter colored roof -- metal would also achieve this effect.

4) I don't have experience with the sun tubes, but we have traditional skylights and they are like an oven in the summer. We've put 95% darkening solar screening over them on the roof to keep the heat down. But, we get a lot of sun on our roof. I think the sun tubes use an indirect angle which might mitigate the heat.

[EzPeterson]

The metal roof should also qualify you for a credit on your homeowner's insurance, provided it meets impact resistant standards. Do be aware that the "pitter patter" of heavy rain and hail can be REALLY loud on a metal roof.

The radiant barrier likely wouldn't be economically sound (cost to install would likely exceed savings). You're much better served by adding insulation to the attic floor and sealing everything you can in that regard.

[Trainwreck20]

The metal roof should also qualify you for a credit on your homeowner's insurance, provided it meets impact resistant standards. Do be aware that the "pitter patter" of heavy rain and hail can be REALLY loud on a metal roof.

Oh, yeah, forgot to mention insurance savings, although the one they talked to us about was the reduced risk/extent of fire damage.

If you do get a metal roof, they can (usually?) put a foam barrier underneath for insulation - both heat and sound. My parents have the foam insulation, and it is actually quieter than our shingle roof.

[CptnRn]

Hi Grasshopper, I think all of the things you are considering are worth doing. I will post in more detail about them a bit later after I dig up some information I want to share with you, pro's, con's, costs, etc.

[10scoachrick]

As mentioned, the metal roof often has a serious foam insulating layer between it and the roof deck, essentially becoming its own radiant barrier. Our Atlanta neighbor also mentioned how much quieter it was than the original shingle roofing.

If you meant radiant DECKING barrier, that would be an excellent product to use if replacing your current decking...not so cost effective if you are simply adding it. I would certainly use it if building new; but the cost of a full re-decking with radiant barrier would be significant. More comfortable, but returning out-of-pocket costs over a long period.

[G Grasshopper]

I just got an email back from the HOA (Circle C) that they would want to see a sample of any roof material that was different from what we have there now (asphalt shingles.) So it isn't very clear whether they would accept metal, but I guess it is a possibility. When we lived in CA, we got a stone-coated steel roof that looked like shingles. It was fine, but if I got one here, I would prefer the standing seam kind, ideally with integrated solar, although I don't know how much that would cost. I certainly would go for any rebate possible, and I agree that anything energy saving is good, providing that it pays back in a reasonable time.

I am also a bit concerned about gutter covers, which just seem like they wouldn't work well in a downpour. If we did get a standing seam roof, it would seem possible to put gutters just in the front and back, and let the sides just run out onto the rocks. The HOA does not require gutters all around.