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Old 08-29-2010, 05:08 PM
 
52 posts, read 127,154 times
Reputation: 34

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikenheidi View Post
Ok look everyone I know maine lived there as a child and also as an adult I love maine and I have never had these problems you guys are talking of I know the seasonal work my grandmother,uncles,aunts,cousins,brother,niece,gre at niece. all live in maine and my grandmother aunts uncles and cousins are all mainers.calm down with all the neg.views really I am a mainer sort of I moved away due to my dads health now i want to go back but I do want to stay by the coast sort of a drive to the coast would not be bad either i do want to stayaway from north maine and stay more towards the city so mychildren will geta little more culture see we live in va right now and we hate the south the racism here is really bad im whiteand i hate it in maine i never saw the things i see here and cant wait to getback to maine i lived in brunswick me for 5 years but i dontthinki can afford brunswick anymore due to the college and navy base people.so please i just want an idea of a good place to raise a familyin south or eastern southern maine like around portland or bah habah lol bar harbor


This is SO hard to read! Punctuation would help it make sense. We may be backwoods up here, but Maineah's know what a period is and where it goes.
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Old 08-29-2010, 06:10 PM
 
Location: Bar Harbor, ME
1,920 posts, read 4,324,559 times
Reputation: 1300
Quote:
Originally Posted by Northern Maine Land Man View Post
OK, shooters; On the rim it will say +P which means extra high pressure. These rounds should only be fired in new modern pistols rated for such loads.
I tried to sell my .357 mag S&W and the dealer told me I had used +P rounds in it. I said no but he said he could tell by the scrapes in the revolver. Unfortunatley for me, I had purchased a red-dot sight for it and then lost the screws to put it in when I transferred it to my .22 S&W revolver. So I went to the hardward store and got new screws but they were too long. Everytime I'd advance the revolver in it, the too long screws would scratch the SS revolver mechanism.

Short of sending it back to S&W for $100 I probably can't sell it.

Z
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Old 08-29-2010, 06:26 PM
 
8,767 posts, read 18,690,392 times
Reputation: 3525
Quote:
Originally Posted by grunzen View Post
This is SO hard to read! Punctuation would help it make sense. We may be backwoods up here, but Maineah's know what a period is and where it goes.
You're right ! Another one of these supposed college graduates who can't spell c-a-t! They use run on sentences, have no idea what a comma, capital letter, or period is for yet we're supposed to believe they are educated, worth our praise, time and direction!! I'd hate be the human resources manager trying to decipher that resume'.
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Old 08-29-2010, 06:32 PM
 
8,767 posts, read 18,690,392 times
Reputation: 3525
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zarathu View Post
I tried to sell my .357 mag S&W and the dealer told me I had used +P rounds in it. I said no but he said he could tell by the scrapes in the revolver. Unfortunatley for me, I had purchased a red-dot sight for it and then lost the screws to put it in when I transferred it to my .22 S&W revolver. So I went to the hardward store and got new screws but they were too long. Everytime I'd advance the revolver in it, the too long screws would scratch the SS revolver mechanism.

Short of sending it back to S&W for $100 I probably can't sell it.

Z
The gun is worth much more that the $100.00 to fix it so it's worth a trip to a gunsmith. You don't have to send it to S&W. Any competent gunsmith can order and fit a new cylinder for it and replace the screws in the site. Everyone has done something to a gun they have regretted at one time or another. You really should fix it! .357 is a nice handgun round!
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Old 08-29-2010, 06:47 PM
 
Location: Forests of Maine
37,496 posts, read 61,484,089 times
Reputation: 30471
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zarathu View Post
I tried to sell my .357 mag S&W and the dealer told me I had used +P rounds in it. I said no but he said he could tell by the scrapes in the revolver. Unfortunatley for me, I had purchased a red-dot sight for it and then lost the screws to put it in when I transferred it to my .22 S&W revolver. So I went to the hardward store and got new screws but they were too long. Everytime I'd advance the revolver in it, the too long screws would scratch the SS revolver mechanism.

Short of sending it back to S&W for $100 I probably can't sell it.

Z
Have a licensed gunsmith put the right screws in it, and 're-finish' the weapon.
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Old 08-30-2010, 08:36 AM
 
Location: Log "cabin" west of Bangor
7,057 posts, read 9,094,534 times
Reputation: 15634
I can't see [the other] Z's posts but...

Quote:
I tried to sell my .357 mag S&W and the dealer told me I had used +P rounds in it.
...is a load of rubbish.

A .38 +P load, while not recommended for older .38 Special revolvers which were not designed to handle the increased pressure, is still under-powered compared to a factory .357 magnum load. My Hornady Handbook Of Cartridge Reloading (fourth edition) tells me that .357 magnum loads start where .38 +P loads end at max pressure.

If a dealer *really* said that, he's either lying or stupid/uneducated. I'd like to know who it is so that I can avoid him, because is sounds like he is deliberately lying and untrustworthy. That is one of the most ridiculous statements I can imagine a gun dealer saying: "Duh, your .357 magnum is no good because you used .38 +P rounds in it, I can tell by the scrapes." There is something seriously wrong with this story.

I'm responding only in the interest of having accurate data out here.
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Old 08-30-2010, 11:38 AM
 
8,767 posts, read 18,690,392 times
Reputation: 3525
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zymer View Post
I can't see [the other] Z's posts but...



...is a load of rubbish.

A .38 +P load, while not recommended for older .38 Special revolvers which were not designed to handle the increased pressure, is still under-powered compared to a factory .357 magnum load. My Hornady Handbook Of Cartridge Reloading (fourth edition) tells me that .357 magnum loads start where .38 +P loads end at max pressure.

If a dealer *really* said that, he's either lying or stupid/uneducated. I'd like to know who it is so that I can avoid him, because is sounds like he is deliberately lying and untrustworthy. That is one of the most ridiculous statements I can imagine a gun dealer saying: "Duh, your .357 magnum is no good because you used .38 +P rounds in it, I can tell by the scrapes." There is something seriously wrong with this story.

I'm responding only in the interest of having accurate data out here.
There is such a thing as a .357 +p load but I read they are more manufacturer's hype than anything vastly more powerful than a .38 +P load.
The scratch thing I thought was related to the long screws in the site not the plus p rounds. Maybe not. I still think a new cylinder fitted to the revolver and proper site screws would fix it right up.
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Old 08-30-2010, 11:40 AM
 
8,767 posts, read 18,690,392 times
Reputation: 3525
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zymer View Post
I can't see [the other] Z's posts but...



...is a load of rubbish.

A .38 +P load, while not recommended for older .38 Special revolvers which were not designed to handle the increased pressure, is still under-powered compared to a factory .357 magnum load. My Hornady Handbook Of Cartridge Reloading (fourth edition) tells me that .357 magnum loads start where .38 +P loads end at max pressure.

If a dealer *really* said that, he's either lying or stupid/uneducated. I'd like to know who it is so that I can avoid him, because is sounds like he is deliberately lying and untrustworthy. That is one of the most ridiculous statements I can imagine a gun dealer saying: "Duh, your .357 magnum is no good because you used .38 +P rounds in it, I can tell by the scrapes." There is something seriously wrong with this story.

I'm responding only in the interest of having accurate data out here.
There is such a thing as a .357 +p load but I read they are more manufacturer's hype than anything vastly more powerful than a .38 +P load.
The scratch thing I thought was related to the long screws in the site not the plus p rounds. Maybe not. I still think a new cylinder fitted to the revolver and proper site screws would fix it right up. Either way it HAS to be worth $100.00 (though a cylinder and the fitting would be more than that). They don't give those guns away.
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Old 08-30-2010, 06:33 PM
 
Location: Log "cabin" west of Bangor
7,057 posts, read 9,094,534 times
Reputation: 15634
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maineah View Post
There is such a thing as a .357 +p load but I read they are more manufacturer's hype than anything vastly more powerful than a .38 +P load.
The scratch thing I thought was related to the long screws in the site not the plus p rounds. Maybe not. I still think a new cylinder fitted to the revolver and proper site screws would fix it right up. Either way it HAS to be worth $100.00 (though a cylinder and the fitting would be more than that). They don't give those guns away.
If it's stainless steel, the scratches from the screws could probably be polished out.
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Old 08-30-2010, 06:37 PM
 
Location: Forests of Maine
37,496 posts, read 61,484,089 times
Reputation: 30471
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zymer View Post
...
If a dealer *really* said that, he's either lying or stupid/uneducated. I'd like to know who it is so that I can avoid him, because is sounds like he is deliberately lying and untrustworthy. That is one of the most ridiculous statements I can imagine a gun dealer saying: "Duh, your .357 magnum is no good because you used .38 +P rounds in it, I can tell by the scrapes." There is something seriously wrong with this story.
The story sounded to me like he was just trying to lower the price.
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