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Old 08-02-2009, 09:34 AM
 
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We close on a house this month. There is a small master bathroom with a shower tile shower stall. It's 1970 vintage - yellow ceramic tile. Overall, the tile is in good shape, but I did notice a soft spot starting behind two tiles that seem to be right in the line of fire to where the shower stream hits on the far wall. Basically, two tiles seem to buckle in slightly toward one another. Looking up from the basement, I see no evidence of leaks or damage under the master bath.

I want to avoid having an issue with a leak, so I will not use this shower until I address the issue somehow (there is another newly remodeled full bath in the house).

I am considering three options:

1) having one of those acrylic liners installed over the existing shower stall. Not sure what they really cost. Obviously, the upside is limited demolition - the downside is that any moisture problems behind the existing tile won't be addressed and could haunt me later with mold, etc - yes?

2) strip to studs, take out existing shower walls and pan and install a new tile shower. I have never done something like this before and am concerned from a DIY point of view... and also the cost of doing something myself.

3) Strip to studs, pull out old shower stall completely and install pre-fab shower stall. Here is one I found online that looks like a simple system I can handle doing myself. It's composed of a Vikrell material. Does anybody have any experience with it? Sterling Plumbing: Shower Stalls: Baths & Showers

Also assuming I will take out the rest of the tile in the bathroom and install new sheetrock on the walls. Keep existing toilet and sink which were replaced recently.

Hoping to keep total cost for renovation around 2K.

Thoughts? Anybody try any of these routes (over existing bath liner or vikrell pre-fab) and want to give your thoughts?

Thanks!
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Old 08-02-2009, 10:16 AM
 
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I would look at tearing out and installing fiberglass unit,will never have leak problem,install fairly easy.Getting into area,room may present problem.I have done it with limited space,had to remove face of bathroom.
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Old 08-02-2009, 10:50 AM
 
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As long as you're moderately handy, and can follow instructions, you can install your own fiberglass shower stall. Another option though would be to find out just what the problem is, because it might be nothing, or it might be something easily fixed by repairing the spot. Then you could have the whole shower reglazed for a fraction of the cost and hassle of putting in a new one.
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Old 08-02-2009, 11:20 AM
 
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Can you pop a hole in the wall that backs up to that side of the stall and take a better look? That way you wouldn't disturb the tile if the wall is ok. If the area is only a spot problem, you might be able to remove the tiles and do a patch. Some small webcams can get in tight places.
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Old 08-02-2009, 12:02 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harry chickpea View Post
Can you pop a hole in the wall that backs up to that side of the stall and take a better look? That way you wouldn't disturb the tile if the wall is ok. If the area is only a spot problem, you might be able to remove the tiles and do a patch. Some small webcams can get in tight places.
That'd be my suggestion. Check into the possible easy fix first. You just might get lucky.

On the other hand, I wouldn't bet on it. If there are a couple tiles that are "soft" it's almost certainly because of damage to the drywall behind the tiles.


I think it all depends on what you want to do, and how much time & money you want to spend.

If you're going to put in new tile, you need to tear everything out and put cement board up on the studs. That's the only appropriate backing for ceramic tile in a shower. If you are handy, and have the tools, this is a long but not expensive process.

If you want to install a new fiberglass shower, it'll be faster but probably more expensive.
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Old 08-02-2009, 01:21 PM
 
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thanks guys. The tile in question shares an outside wall, so i'd have to cut the wood siding to get a look from the back.

Right now, I'm leaning toward doing the pre-fab install myself. Strip it to the studs, clean up any rot etc, put up new cement board and go from there. I will have to tile over the enclosure (they all seem too short for me and I want to mount the shower head past the enclosure. So, if I bother going that route, maybe I'll just tile the sides but use a pre-fab pan? Is this a good idea.

Thanks again.
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Old 08-02-2009, 01:42 PM
 
Location: I think my user name clarifies that.
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Originally Posted by superfly10 View Post
thanks guys. The tile in question shares an outside wall, so i'd have to cut the wood siding to get a look from the back.

Right now, I'm leaning toward doing the pre-fab install myself. Strip it to the studs, clean up any rot etc, put up new cement board and go from there. I will have to tile over the enclosure (they all seem too short for me and I want to mount the shower head past the enclosure. So, if I bother going that route, maybe I'll just tile the sides but use a pre-fab pan? Is this a good idea.

Thanks again.
I'm not aware of people doing the fiberglass pan, then tiling above it, but I'm sure it could be done. However, I think I'd be more inclined to just tile the floor too.
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Old 08-02-2009, 01:55 PM
 
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Default Check the grout.....

First I might check the grout in that area. You may be able to just get away with regrout job. The tiles themselves probably can not be source of the problem, they cover their area, just about has to be the grout line.

You do not say if there are any spare tiles or it possible to match them.

If installed over drywall, I would guess the mastic out of a can was used. If so if usually is fairly easy to pop those tiles using something like a chisel after you open the grout lines. That would let you inspect the area behind. Done carefully, the tiles can be removed without breaking, still like to have spares. If the drywall is damaged can be repaired, those tiles reset, you can do as big an area as required. I've done similar repairs, the trick is always getting spare tile. The repairs are pretty basic. Could get away with a repair / regrout.

If you retile, use the prefab pan, even if tiling the floor.

Those enclosures are sold with the assumption that the openings are standard. Not always the case. Many times some type of shimming is required, hopefully it is too large, not too small.

A retile is very straight forward. Should not cost anywhere near 2K, try to get the materials surplus. Lots of surplus tile about, you may have to do a mix / match pattern but can be one good way to do cost control. Like I got 32 square feet for $5, enough to do what was needed in bath / kitchen.
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Old 08-02-2009, 02:08 PM
 
Location: I think my user name clarifies that.
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Superfly...

I forgot to mention that I recently remodeled a bathroom with old vintage tiles I found. I bought a whole truck-load of them, so most of them are left over.

The tiles I have are of every color imaginable.

Holler if you need one or two or three. You can have them if you'd pay shipping.

PM me if that's something you need.
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Old 08-05-2009, 03:15 PM
 
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Omaha, thanks for the offer. i may take you up on it. Right now, i'm leaning toward a complete demo down the the studs of the shower and putting a perfab base in - and tiling the rest of the stall.
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