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Thanks, everyone, for the input. It is linoleum tiles and I tried at the doorway to pry some up, I get pieces because it cracks. The house is built over a crawlspace, not on a slab, I'm worried that a)there could be an asbestos issue; or b) that in trying to get up the linoleum I end up damaging the subfloor and getting into even more expense. I just want to put in a nice, neutral ceramic tile. When I bought the house, the blue-streaked faux marble plastic countertops in the kitchen really bothered me, but since I've had those replaced, the gold and brown speckled linoleum has become more and more of an issue. So thanks to everyone again!
DC
If they contain asbestos, it's not an issue unless you try to rip them up or if they're breaking and flaking off. Like I mentioned before, if they seem pretty secure I'd just put down backer board rated for floors right over top of them. Since you're over a crawlspace you can screw it down with sheetrock screws, lay tile over it, and never have to worry about that lino again.
1 - Is this really linoleum? Probably not. It is more likely a composite like VCT or VAT. It might also be an old asphalt tile. Linoleum is a totally natural product made of wood pulp, linseed, and linseed oils. There is no asbestos in it. VAT (Vinyl Asbestos Tile) is the forerunner of VCT (Vinyl Composition Tile). The former obviously had asbestos content. The latter does not. Asphalt tiles pre-date the other products. and were usually 9" x 9" in size.
Now then......
The real question regarding the installation of your ceramic tile should be "How sturdy is the subfloor that is under the existing tile product?" Your minimum requirements for structural stability is two layers of 1/2" CDX Plywood, or better. If, for example, you have an old 1x6 diagonal planking-type subfloor, you cannot safely adhere ceramic tile directly to your existing tile floor. There will be too much flex, or 'bounce' in the subfloor and will cause your new tile to break bond and it will crack the ceramic tile as well.
So.........Here's what you do:
Attach a layer of 1/2" backer board (Wonderboard, Durock, Hardibacker, Permabase, etc.) directly to the existing tile floor. DO NOT SAND THAT TILE! If there IS asbestos in it, sanding it will release the fibers into your atmosphere, and it is dangerous. Left in place, the old tile is stable and safe. By attaching the backer board with screws, and then covering that with thinset mortar and ceramic tile, you will effectively encapsulate the old floor, and that's what you want. Adding the backer board will add structural rigidity to the subfloor system and create a better bonding system of cement to cement. You will also want to set the backer board in a slurry mix of thinset mortar before you screw it down. This is not a bond coat. It is there to minimize any air pockets, or voids, underneath the backer board.
I am a ceramic tile and flooring professional with 30 years experience. Not bragging, just saying that if this were my house, this is how I would handle it.
A final note.......
If your subfloor already meets the structural criteria that I outlined above, it is still wise to add a layer of backer board. But you could use a 1/4" thickness in lieu of the 1/2" if you want to minimize the profile height increase of the overall ceramic tile system. Keep in mind that there are plenty of threshold/transition options out there that will accomodate the height difference between the adjacent floors and your new tile floor.
Tiling over any floor raises the height of that floor. Do some rough layout of the materials, (subflooring + tile + whatever) and see if any doors affected would still open.
Can happen in an older house, not enough clearance when the new floor gets in, many times the door swing is not completely level and it will hit in spots, even if enough clearance seems to be there.
Steamer beat me to it, I was just going to ask if it was truly linoleum. A lot of people call viny flooring linoleum, but they are entirely different. Linoleum was replaced by vinyl flooring some time around the 1960's. I've heard you can still buy it in some specialty places, but that wasn't your question.
Good luck!
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Just make sure the doors will open.......
