Basement Wall Question (floor, how much, countertop, foundation)
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I'm wanting to finish off a room in my basement. The only exterior wall of the room is about 3 feet deep into the ground, and has cinder blocks going up that high, the rest of the wall is studded. I know to attach furring strips, vapor barriers, insulation, etc. to the cinder blocks, my problem is that the cinder blocks protrude about 6 inches farther into the room than the studded wall. There is a large window that's already framed on that same wall, which I'd like to avoid messing with.
My thought was to simply use the difference between the two parts of the wall as a shelf of sorts, since it would be about 8 or so inches when it's all said and done; a solid width for a shelf. I just don't know how to do that, or rather, I don't know what to do to go from open cinder blocks to a finished shelf, finished with insulated wood, tile, a countertop surface, etc. for the horizontal surface.
Or, should I move the top half (studded) wall in to be plumb with the cinder block wall (plus its furring strips) so as to make one continuous wall? My concern with the is option is A. how to extend the studs B. what to do with the window; would it need to be reframed?
You basically build a stud wall over the block wall. Tie the furred out wall to the existing studs that rest on the top of the block wall. Imagine the contour of the block wall. Now just imagine a piece of wood following the outline the block wall surface all the way to the floor. You'll need to put a vapor barrier etc before drywall.
Now instead of having a traditional straight. Wall all the way up you have a wall that has a shelf half way up. Sort of like looking at a kitchen chair from a profile view.
You're saying basically extend the studded wall down to be plumb with the cinder block wall? How will that affect the framing of the window; should I basically frame a hole for that with the new wall?
I'd probably go with the shelf; in addition to the storage wont have to framing out the perimeter of the window which gives it a deep window sill. I think the deep window sill looks weird.
I'd also keep that stud wall 2-3 inches off/away from the cinder block, that will keep any moisture/wetness from the cinder blocks (ground water coming in; condensation on the cool blocks) away from the wall. Of course you don't want to finish any basement that has moisture issues...that is asking for trouble.
It has no moisture issues to my knowledge. It's an interior townhouse, built in 1998, purchased last summer. That one wall 3' feet deep into the earth is the only wall in the entire house below ground. It's at the top of a slope leading into a retention pond, and the home inspector inspector said he saw no water damage.
Would using UGL Drylok (or a similar product) plus adding thick vapor barrier suffice?
Additionally, what would you recommend for the top of the shelf area? What would be the base for that, and how would I go about securing it?
I'd suggest you sit down for awhile with your favorite beverage and look at that wall, the room and your current and long-term plans.
Do you want a straight up wall?
- In this case, stud it out from floor to ceiling but you'll waste that space between the existing studs and the offset due to the block.
- If your finish isn't drywall, you can use that dead space for hidden or secure storage. There's thin safes that can be installed in that area.
Do you want a wall with that shelf?
How about some shelves? I'm thinking something like this. The difference being the bottom half is wainscoting (be it wood or drywall) to cover the blocked portion of the wall and the open space pictured in the middle is actually your window.
Lots of choices. It depends on your carpentry skills, wants/needs and how much effort you want to put into it.
You're saying basically extend the studded wall down to be plumb with the cinder block wall? How will that affect the framing of the window; should I basically frame a hole for that with the new wall?
I'd love to see a pic. But basically just continue the existing wall studs that stops on the top of the brick wall and follow the brick to the bottom where the floor is this way you're not touching the original wall and window. All you're doing us encasing/covering the brick with stud and drywall. Your wall now will sit on the surface of the brick.
What you wasn't to do is done a lot on older buildings with concrete walls. It's usually called furring out a wall. It may have other names. That technique is also used to cover surface pipes, conduit or metal columns. You're just building a stud wall to over the brick. You stop the new wall where the old stud wall starts. You anchor the studs to the brick. Ramsey or drill and concrete screw/anchor them. If your window is built into the wood stud wall above the brick you simply drywall to the edge of the window then use some corner bead or tape it.
Well this is going sideways real quick-
Currently, the recommended procedure for finishing/insulating basements walls is this:
Cover the foundation wall with XPS (rigid foam board), a minimum of 1" thick. It can be attached with a bit of construction adhesive (no separate vapor barrier is required because foam already has one). Tape all the joints with seal tape (specific tape designed for this purpose). Then build your stud wall directly against the foam board. If more insulation is required, you can use f/glass batts between the studs.
As for the foundation stem wall/framed wall, I as a general rule frame the wall straight up. I personally dislike the "ledged" wall- it just says cheap! The way the window gets trimmed out, the rough-framed opening is 1-1/2" wider/taller than the frame of the window. You build an "extended" jamb for the window to come flush with the drywall, then finish with casing to match doors.
But, if you prefer the ledge for collecting your dust bunnies and other Tchotchkes- framing follows the vertical shape of the wall. You can cover with drywall and call it a day; or, you can trim it out with some 1X on top with a routed edge detail and some overhang and then add a apron underneath.
Does anyone know the purpose of these shelves built in older basements. Can they be removed?
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