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Old 11-21-2013, 01:26 PM
 
Location: The Wild Wild West
44,647 posts, read 61,684,084 times
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We replaced our water heater 8 years ago. It is a Kenmore 50 gal with 12 yr warranty, cost around $499.00 plus $75.00 to install. Works beautifully.
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Old 11-21-2013, 01:37 PM
 
Location: Southern New Hampshire
10,052 posts, read 18,098,797 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wit-nit View Post
We replaced our water heater 8 years ago. It is a Kenmore 50 gal with 12 yr warranty, cost around $499.00 plus $75.00 to install. Works beautifully.
Wow, that is cheap! I had no idea how MUCH cheaper the "regular" tank heaters are than the tankless ones. That's a long payback period on the tankless ones ... I think I will ask my propane company to give me an estimate on just getting a "regular" replacement as well. (I checked and my current one is a 40-gallon Bradford White -- I couldn't find the year of manufacture listed anywhere, but the printing on the various documents pasted to it looks pretty old. I suspect it's only the 2nd or 3rd unit of this house, which is 53 years old.)
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Old 11-21-2013, 01:44 PM
 
Location: Queen Creek, AZ
7,327 posts, read 12,357,885 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karen_in_nh_2012 View Post
Wow, that is cheap! I had no idea how MUCH cheaper the "regular" tank heaters are than the tankless ones. That's a long payback period on the tankless ones ... I think I will ask my propane company to give me an estimate on just getting a "regular" replacement as well. (I checked and my current one is a 40-gallon Bradford White -- I couldn't find the year of manufacture listed anywhere, but the printing on the various documents pasted to it looks pretty old. I suspect it's only the 2nd or 3rd unit of this house, which is 53 years old.)
However, don't limit yourself to a base model. Storage tank water heaters come in various efficiencies. A base 50 gallon model will typically have an energy factor of 0.58. A high efficiency 50 gallon model will generally have an energy factor of 0.62. Energy Star qualified models have an energy factor of 0.67 to 0.70, which is typically achieved by using power venting, flue dampers, or blowers, the downside is that they will need to be supplied with external electricity.

I personally would get a unit with an energy factor of at least 0.62. The 0.62 EF models don't cost much more than the base 0.58 EF models from my experience, and will pay itself off rather quickly.
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Old 11-21-2013, 02:07 PM
 
248 posts, read 674,904 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wit-nit View Post
We replaced our water heater 8 years ago. It is a Kenmore 50 gal with 12 yr warranty, cost around $499.00 plus $75.00 to install. Works beautifully.
What state was this in? Gas or Electric?

I'd love to find this deal since I was told between 1,000-1,500 to replace my 50gal gas heater.

Also what are everyone's thoughts on store bought vs special 'plumbers' brand water heaters?
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Old 11-21-2013, 02:11 PM
 
Location: Queen Creek, AZ
7,327 posts, read 12,357,885 times
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Originally Posted by DP1987 View Post

Also what are everyone's thoughts on store bought vs special 'plumbers' brand water heaters?
Avoid the store bought models (especially Whirlpool and Kenmore); their quality doesn't even come close to the units sold by plumbers. My top pick of brand is Bradford White, followed by Rheem/Ruud.

Also, don't assume the store bought models will always cost less; this is what the big box stores' marketing groups want you to believe. Plumbers will often competitively price their water heaters, otherwise they wouldn't be in business.
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Old 11-21-2013, 02:41 PM
 
Location: Florida
7,251 posts, read 7,091,171 times
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Have you considered that the heating elements just need to be replaced?

My heater has 2 elements - one top, one bottom. When you have not used hot water for a while (say you just got home from work) feel on the side of the tank at the top and then at the bottom. Are they the same temperature or is one colder than the other??? If it's colder, then you have a bad element.

If you want to replace just the element, you'll need to turn the water off then drain the tank. Then you can remove the elements (we did both even though only 1 was out because both has sediment on them) and put new ones in. Refill the tank, turn it back on and wait for more warm water.

That's another option.
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Old 11-21-2013, 02:47 PM
 
Location: Queen Creek, AZ
7,327 posts, read 12,357,885 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kab0906 View Post
Have you considered that the heating elements just need to be replaced?

My heater has 2 elements - one top, one bottom. When you have not used hot water for a while (say you just got home from work) feel on the side of the tank at the top and then at the bottom. Are they the same temperature or is one colder than the other??? If it's colder, then you have a bad element.

If you want to replace just the element, you'll need to turn the water off then drain the tank. Then you can remove the elements (we did both even though only 1 was out because both has sediment on them) and put new ones in. Refill the tank, turn it back on and wait for more warm water.

That's another option.
According to the OP, her water heater is propane, not electric.
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Old 11-21-2013, 02:49 PM
 
Location: Riverside Ca
22,146 posts, read 33,582,378 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DP1987 View Post
What state was this in? Gas or Electric?

I'd love to find this deal since I was told between 1,000-1,500 to replace my 50gal gas heater.

Also what are everyone's thoughts on store bought vs special 'plumbers' brand water heaters?


My plumber will install box store stuff but he flat out told me not to use them. I have him supply the WH and it's a supply house name. I've used this plumber for over 8 years for ALL my plumbing. Reliable, good prices and grew work. Never had complaints.nas far as competitive pricing it really wasn't much more. Besides I rather pay a bit more to the little guy than the box store corporation
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Old 11-21-2013, 03:15 PM
 
Location: Queen Creek, AZ
7,327 posts, read 12,357,885 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electrician4you View Post
My plumber will install box store stuff but he flat out told me not to use them. I have him supply the WH and it's a supply house name. I've used this plumber for over 8 years for ALL my plumbing. Reliable, good prices and grew work. Never had complaints.nas far as competitive pricing it really wasn't much more. Besides I rather pay a bit more to the little guy than the box store corporation
Yep, well said. And even though the GE units sold at Home Depot are made by Rheem, they are not the same product as the actual Rheem or Ruud water heaters sold by plumbers; I heard the GE units weigh about 25 pounds less than a comparable Rheem/Ruud model.
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Old 11-21-2013, 03:34 PM
 
Location: Columbia SC
14,255 posts, read 14,770,499 times
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My son is in the disaster restoration business. He says the two biggest sources of damaging water leaks are hot water tanks and the water supply hoses/couplings on toilets.

In my area, many homes have the hot water heater in a space (like a small attic) over the master bathroom. The space is accessed via pull down stairs in the master closet. The tank sits in a metal tub with an outside drain, and an alarm. If there is ever a water leak, the theory (theory) is the water will flow into the tub, the water will drain outside, and the alarm will go off. The space also contains the gas furnace and central AC cooling coil, but another subject.

I am told the hot water heater could fit down the stairs if replacement is needed. Some say many just set the old one aside in e space and install a new one of needed. My house is only 3 years old so I expect any issues are far down the road unless I find it comes crashing down and is sitting in the middle of the master bath. Heck maybe it will fall on and kill the cat. A silver lining in a cloud.........LOL

I would consider a tankless hot water heater if I ever have to address the situation.

Last edited by johngolf; 11-21-2013 at 03:54 PM..
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