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Old 11-08-2007, 08:01 PM
 
29,939 posts, read 39,458,172 times
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"Avoid wood with a moisture content of more than about 18%, treated lumber, drift wood, or any wood of a questionable source. Forget about species of wood. If it is dry, burn it.

Here's the BS about pine and softwoods compared to burning hardwoods:

Most softwoods have a higher equilibrium moisture content than hardwoods. In other words, if you kiln dried oak and pine then left them outside for 6 months, the pine, being partially hygroscopic, would absorb moisture from the air so its equilibrium mc would be higher than the oak. When burned, it robs valuable BTUs to dry the log so it can be pyrolized into combustible vapors and burned. This leaves less heat to maintain a strong draft and less heat to the room.

The popping you get from some softwoods is from burning green wood. The pops are actually steam explosions. When water converts to steam, it expands 1,600x at 212F. The higher the temps, the higher the expansion ratio.

The formation of creosote is a function of how hot the fire is burned, the flue gas velocity, flue dewpoint, and how complete the combustion. Modern EPA Phase II woodstoves burn the smoke twice. Open fireplaces burn it once but have very high levels of excess air thus diluting the air so the dewpoint remains low. Burning green woods tends to cool the stack temps, while adding moisture to the smoke and slowing the stack velocity thus increasing residence time allowing the tars in the smoke to condense on the flue walls forming what we call creosote.

A hot flue is a happy flue, I always teach in training.

Softwoods are good for starting fires while hardwoods last longer. While its true softwoods tend to be resinous and this sap (sugar) is combustible, the cell structure of the wood allows oxygen diffusion deeper into softwoods thus allowing faster pyrolyzation compared to dense hardwood cells. Need a good firestarter? Light a candy bar, potato chip or marshmallow.

Which has more BTUs? A kiln dried pound of oak or a kiln dried pound of pine?

HTH,
Hearthman"


"On a kiln dried basis, a pound of wood is a pound of wood is a pound of wood--they all have about 8600 BTUs per pound kiln dried.

The way hardwoods have more BTUs is density. A hardwood log of the same dimensions as a soft wood will contain many more BTUs because it is more compact or dense. Also, because the cell structure is tighter, it takes longer for oxygen to diffuse into the cells to begin pyrolysis therefore hardwoods are harder to get started compared to softwoods.

The Beagle makes a great point about size and shape. Hold a pencil into a flame to see how long it takes to ignite. Now, take another similar pencil, shave it into a "fuzz stic" and put it into the flame. It ignites almost instantly, right? You are getting the oxygen into more cells faster and the Heat Release Rate will support a flame front.

Be careful breaking up firestarters. If the mfr says don't then don't. I've investigated enough fires where this was done and the vaopr cloud of combustible gases from the wax billows out of the fireplace igniting combustibles on the mantel or nearby.
HTH,
Hearthman"
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Old 11-09-2007, 09:48 AM
 
Location: Johns Creek, GA
17,474 posts, read 66,035,782 times
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Anytime I have had a H/O ask me for this type of info, I always direct then to the D.O.E. site. Since personal energy use is basically at home and our car- the site covers both.
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Old 11-09-2007, 01:51 PM
 
29,939 posts, read 39,458,172 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K'ledgeBldr View Post
Anytime I have had a H/O ask me for this type of info, I always direct then to the D.O.E. site. Since personal energy use is basically at home and our car- the site covers both.

I agree very informative site.
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Old 11-09-2007, 02:30 PM
 
Location: North of the Cow Pasture and South of the Wind Turbines
856 posts, read 2,921,429 times
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Hey thanks BigJon excellent posts, great information considering I heat with wood as a primary heat source living in the Catskills as I do it is cheap or free and a big savings on my "backup" heat lol propane baseboard heating and hot water.

I have a question for you I have looked into various solar hot water solutions and always get a little put off by the cost and also with a lot of the snowy days we get not convinced we would get a consistent amount of hot water. I was thinking though if I bought a solar panel that was large enough to power an electric hot water heater that might be an alternative to somewhat complex and pricey solar solutions.

If I could knock out heating my hot water with propane I would save about 80% of that cost, considering I estimate that by heating with wood I maybe use 20% to heat when it is really cold.

Just wondering what you thought...

Thanks!
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Old 11-09-2007, 02:51 PM
 
Location: Hopewell New Jersey
1,398 posts, read 7,704,702 times
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Solar electric panels that produce electricity are not nearly as energy efficent as solar thermal panels..ie..heat hot water...you're going down a dead end.
If you've got access to all that nearly free firewood why not look into heating water with it also ? There are even double chambered units/systems that heat water for domestic use and heat water that is circulated around baseboard radiant units or circulated thru a water to air heat exchanger that resides in the plenum chamber of a forced air system along with the expansion coils of a central air conditioner system (if present).

FYI...solar electric panels don't even come close to 20% conversion efficiency. With that being said the payback period is approximatly equal to the life time of the panels themselves ! (20 yrs tops ) They are a neat solution when no other power source is available such as remote isolated facilities, but they are also a very expensive choice compared to everything else.
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Old 11-09-2007, 03:33 PM
 
29,939 posts, read 39,458,172 times
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Sorry BovinaCowHateWindTurbines I don't mess with solar energy so I don't know much about it. I also only on rare occasions see propane so I wouldn't be much help for you. You can always try that last link I'm sure you would get some really great answers there.....The one referring to have question on service or instillations. Just make sure you read the rules first.
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Old 11-09-2007, 03:56 PM
 
Location: Falling Waters, WV
1,502 posts, read 7,378,315 times
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First of all, this is a great thread !

My question is we moved into a new home and we just turned the heat on from a heat pump a week or so ago. My unit comes on every 20 minutes, I don't remember the heat pump in our old house coming on so much. I am just wondering if this is normal. I feel like every time I hear it come on I hear "ching...ching" there goes another $5.
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Old 11-09-2007, 05:57 PM
 
28,803 posts, read 47,689,558 times
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Move a lit candle around your windows on a windy day. If the flame flutters you have leaks. You can buy kits of plastic and tape that go over the windows and the plastic will tighten up when you heat it with a hair dryer.

Saves a ton of energy.
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Old 11-10-2007, 09:32 AM
 
29,939 posts, read 39,458,172 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Janipoo View Post
First of all, this is a great thread !

My question is we moved into a new home and we just turned the heat on from a heat pump a week or so ago. My unit comes on every 20 minutes, I don't remember the heat pump in our old house coming on so much. I am just wondering if this is normal. I feel like every time I hear it come on I hear "ching...ching" there goes another $5.

The heat pump itself is (depending on it's efficiency rating) is actually a fairly cheap way to heat the house. Try cutting the temp back one degree at a time and see if that makes you feel better. But every 20 minutes or so is normal depending on your set point, outside temps, infiltration into the house and your insulation ratings.

Do you have a means to take the temp. coming out of the vents? Also does it come on and stay on for a while or does it only run for 5 minutes at a time then shuts off for 20 minutes?
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Old 11-10-2007, 09:38 AM
 
Location: Falling Waters, WV
1,502 posts, read 7,378,315 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJon3475 View Post
The heat pump itself is (depending on it's efficiency rating) is actually a fairly cheap way to heat the house. Try cutting the temp back one degree at a time and see if that makes you feel better. But every 20 minutes or so is normal depending on your set point, outside temps, infiltration into the house and your insulation ratings.

Do you have a means to take the temp. coming out of the vents? Also does it come on and stay on for a while or does it only run for 5 minutes at a time then shuts off for 20 minutes?
It comes on for about 5 minutes than cuts off for another 20 minutes. We have it set at 72, and I still get chilly.
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