Which HVAC System? (how much, furnace, heater, rooms)

[PAULLIGHT]

We have a 2 story, 2700 sq.ft. home in North Dallas. Our downstairs system quit a couple of months ago.

So far we have had 2 quotes from 2 credible companies in the area.

Both suggested keeping the existing ductwork and adding a second air return.

(1) Trane System
XL15i + XT80 furnace + R410A coil + Honeywell F100 filter system=$7,380

(2) Amana System
ASX16 + AMV80 two stage furnace + high efficiency coil + Honeywell F100 filter + new thermostat=$8450

My wife likes to keep the home "cool" so a high efficiency system is important.

We felt very comfortable with both companies. I'm "leaning" towards the Amana.

Thoughts????

Thanks

Paul

[K'ledgeBldr]

I won't go into brand considerations, and neither does Consumer Reports.
However, I do recommend a few things to ask for-
A Manual-J calculation done on the house. If either of the two contractors you have contacted have not done this, move on to next. For years HVAC systems were "calculated" by the number of rooms and where the unit would be in relation to where the returns were- not a real good "system of calculation".
A Manual-D calculation is also a good idea. Who knows, the existing ductwork maybe wrong to begin with.
Compare costs with federal rebate programs- by increasing the efficiency of the units you may substantially reduce your fuel costs and increase your rebate.

Here's some other places for info:
Consumer Resources
ACEEE | Cooling

[jbiggs]

Originally Posted by PAULLIGHT

We have a 2 story, 2700 sq.ft. home in North Dallas. Our downstairs system quit a couple of months ago.

So far we have had 2 quotes from 2 credible companies in the area.

Both suggested keeping the existing ductwork and adding a second air return.

(1) Trane System
XL15i + XT80 furnace + R410A coil + Honeywell F100 filter system=$7,380

(2) Amana System
ASX16 + AMV80 two stage furnace + high efficiency coil + Honeywell F100 filter + new thermostat=$8450

My wife likes to keep the home "cool" so a high efficiency system is important.

We felt very comfortable with both companies. I'm "leaning" towards the Amana.

Thoughts????

Thanks

Paul

Regardless of whose equipment you buy I would highly advise that you read their warranties very closely and make sure you understand every detail of what they say. As an example Trane will warrant their exterior compressor units for 5 years. But that is only for the cost of the compressor and not the labor or additional materials needed to replace one! The cost of replacing a compressor can easily reach $900+ just in labor, refrigerant, etc. Trane will sell you an additional warranty to cover the unit for a 10 year period. But you have to purchase it at the time of sale (or very shortly afterwards) and it can easily run 25% of the cost of your new system, on top of the new system cost. Trane's basic equipment warranty does not cover labor charges which are very high! Quite amazing when you consider their equipment can fail in a normal warranty period even with proper care and maintenance. Yet you are left holding the bag on labor charges!

When you look at systems place the warranties side by side and compare them. Also ask if you can purchase an extended warranty, how much it costs, and get a copy of that as well. Compare the extended warranties to each other to see what each covers.

I would expect that your system is old and just aged itself to the scrap yard? If so another thing to make sure of is if the new system will require new coolant lines run from the outside to inside air handler/evaporative coil/heater. Also make sure that your current electrical wiring, cutoff switch outside, and breaker in the main panel is sufficient for the new unit. Replacing any of these can increase your costs more than expected. Just because the company does not change these items out does not mean they are adequate or still serviceable for the new system. Make sure they place it on the quote that new is not required.

As for the type of refrigerant I would just move to the newer R410A instead of an R22 unit. R22 refrigerant has been banned for manufacturing and when the current stock runs out you will have issues. It might take time to deplete it but as it does the cost will rise dramatically.

Now onto which companies equipment to buy. I would highly advise you do a little searching and see who has what to say about the support each company gives their equipment. Trane makes good equipment but they also have a poor attitude as far as backing their equipment. Mind you it is not the Trane dealer that is not supporting the equipment, it is Trane the manufacturer. Trane unfairly dumps a lot on the dealers to handle and pay for out of their pocket. For example search the "dirty sock syndrome" and you will see that Trane leads the way with this problem in their systems. Trane refuses to handle this issue under any warranty or their responsibility until consumers have already spent large amounts of money having multiple coil cleanings at the consumers expense. Many Trane dealers try to do this at no charge at least for the first incident. Trane can solve this with an extra $100 in the manufacturer process but refuses to do it.

Just do your research and check the systems and support closely before making a decision.

[chet everett]

As knledge builder suggests you GOTTA get a the detailed calculations that real energy audits / true HVAC engineering firms can provide. Once you have that info you then should decide on the SEER and size system. With that info have MULTIPLE firms bid on same level of equipment.

In the long run the extra work will result in a lower energy costs and BETTER COMFORT -- systems sized "about right" too often are ineffective in delivering the kind of cooling / dehumidification / air balance that leads to comfort and then you waste money overcooling or with cold clammy air...

Brand is the LAST thing you should thing about, especially as so many firms have consolidated and the "name" on the housing may hide nearly identical components made by commodity level sub-suppliers.

[CptnRn]

Did they test your ducts for leakage? Or consider how much insulation you have (or don't have in your attic)? You could get by with a smaller HVAC system if you corrected any duct leakage, sealed plumbing penetrations, return air chases, and added insulation in the attic. I did all of that in my house 3 years ago and it dropped my electricity bill by 25-30%.

Duct leakage alone averages 25% in older homes.

My costs are described here for taking a whole house approach to improving the energy efficiency on a 2300 SF 1 story home in Austin.
https://www.city-data.com/forum/8484811-post7.html