Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
The car has poor acceleration and makes a growling type noise. It struggles to go uphill but drives fine downhill. It eats gas like crazy and struggles to go over70 mph.
My driver's side cv boot is destroyed. My Cv axle seal that links to the transmission has sippage around it, and my tie rods are bad not to mention I have blown out rear struts(both).
The car has 180,000 miles on it.
I checked the automatic fluid level and it wasn't low, brown and did not contain any metal particles.
I'm thinking it is most likely the transmission slipping but the last thing I want to do is replace the car with a transmission when it could have been the cv boot or axle.
What kind of condition and tune is the engine in? Offhand when a car lacks power, I would look at el motor before looking at the transola.
You would have to have a bone dry CV joint that would be glowing red hot from friction heating before you would notice the car being down on power. I have never seen anything like that in more than 30 years of fooling with cars.
I second what M3 Mitch said. Engine before transmission (especially since you state that the car eats gas like crazy).
Rule of thumb: Don't replace any CV boots, replace the whole axle assembly. They are cheap. Rear struts seem to seize up in that model of Taurus. There may have been an extension on rear strut problems but I don't recall if it was spring seats or what. I may be off track also, just don't remember offhand.
I second what M3 Mitch said. Engine before transmission (especially since you state that the car eats gas like crazy).
Rule of thumb: Don't replace any CV boots, replace the whole axle assembly. They are cheap. Rear struts seem to seize up in that model of Taurus. There may have been an extension on rear strut problems but I don't recall if it was spring seats or what. I may be off track also, just don't remember offhand.
What kind of condition and tune is the engine in? Offhand when a car lacks power, I would look at el motor before looking at the transola.
You would have to have a bone dry CV joint that would be glowing red hot from friction heating before you would notice the car being down on power. I have never seen anything like that in more than 30 years of fooling with cars.
Honestly, I'm not 100% sure. I changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, camshaft position sensor, switched to synthetic oil.
I think my fuel pump is going bad and I never changed the water pump when I bought the car.
That's a data point, but not all engine problems cause a CEL. An example would be a burnt valve.
Go through it methodically - how old are the plugs, are the coil packs or distributor/wires in good shape? O2 sensor, fuel filter? Does the engine start easily and run well, smoothly?
If your trans is slipping, your transmission fluid may be hotter than normal - hard to judge just by feeling of the trans dipstick but I don't know any other simple test.
If the trans is slipping, you may be better off putting in an ex-boneyard unit, or put in a rebuilt like a Jasper if the rest of the car is in good enough shape to justify that.
I still think it's something with the engine or fuel supply, not the transmission. If the transmission slips, the RPMs would be higher, usually a lot higher, while trying to accelerate. Usually transmissions don't slip for very long before they either get fluid put into them, or burn out. The same goes for some sort of binding or internal transmission failure. It could go on for a short period of time, but not for very long.
I have not worked in the auto body or repair business for some time, so my knowledge is probably slipping. I try to keep up and have done some fill-in work for other guys in the meantime, but it's not like being at it every day. Still, I would suspect the engine, fuel supply, or other issue related to the engine, before the transmission.
I still think it's something with the engine or fuel supply, not the transmission. If the transmission slips, the RPMs would be higher, usually a lot higher, while trying to accelerate. Usually transmissions don't slip for very long before they either get fluid put into them, or burn out. The same goes for some sort of binding or internal transmission failure. It could go on for a short period of time, but not for very long.
I have not worked in the auto body or repair business for some time, so my knowledge is probably slipping. I try to keep up and have done some fill-in work for other guys in the meantime, but it's not like being at it every day. Still, I would suspect the engine, fuel supply, or other issue related to the engine, before the transmission.
It seems to actually drive fine until I floor it and the rpms are around 3-4k that the slippage occurs and I lose acceleration.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
