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Old 07-29-2013, 03:56 PM
 
1,735 posts, read 1,769,483 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AstonMartinNY View Post
Cool and what's funny is that i live around the corner from this place that specializes in BMW's. They also have a Nissan GTR in front. So a place like them would be ideal?
Yes.

BMWs make solid power-trains. However,the things that are connected to the engine like the automatic tranny (manuals are great), alternator, electrics, etc will fail and if neglected, very troublesome.
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Old 07-29-2013, 03:59 PM
 
Location: Pikesville, MD
5,228 posts, read 15,285,380 times
Reputation: 4846
Don't pay someone to work on your car if you have even the slightest idea how to do it yourself.

Here's my stepson's '02 325i. 250k miles and only needed a water pump ($50 and a few minutes in the driveway with basic hand tools) rear wheel bearings (a bit more involved, but cheap enough) and both rear window regulators ($100 each for lifetime warranty from FCP and a few minutes in the driveway again).



It's been in the family since his father ordered it new.

Oil changes are cheap and easy, as is most routine maintenance. Some of the more esoteric repairs can be pricy, but you will rarely need those unless you seriously abuse the car. At 70k miles, one of these should have another decade or so in it if not abused too much.
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Old 07-29-2013, 04:02 PM
 
Location: new yawk zoo
8,679 posts, read 11,073,293 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NARFALICIOUS View Post
Labor.

fcp-euro
2006 BMW 325i - Vent valve $76
2006 VW Jetta (my car) - Vent valve - $16

but you can't really go by an online website. Going through the dealer is how a lot of people go for parts, directly or indirectly. A lot of independent shops who need to get OEM parts will likely go through the dealer.
labor is always expensive at any dealers...they charge how much? $110? $150 an hour?

I buy many of bmw parts online. I use sites like bav auto & bimmerzone.....even with ebay I've saved a bundle. For simple things like bulbs, I can get it at autozone....I've been told dealers charged $45 for the bulb and labor.

I worked on my Toyota & my bmw....bmw is marginally more work but its all doable with the right tools. With less time in the last few yrs, I bring other work to my trusted independent mechanic.
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Old 07-29-2013, 04:35 PM
 
11,555 posts, read 53,163,200 times
Reputation: 16348
Quote:
Originally Posted by AstonMartinNY View Post
I heard all German cars are pains... why? lol
IMO, it comes down to the engineering philosophy of how to accomplish the essential and non-essential functions of the vehicle. The German cars tend to be "over engineered" in many ways/items which do not necessarily equate to more durability/high performance, and generally specify a quality level of materials which may be higher than other designers use.

But not necessarily to any benefit beyond a talking point or a pride in the elegance of the component.

For example, a friend here had owned Honda's for two decades. Always preferred manual transmissions, and always got 150,000++ trouble-free miles out of the clutches and actuating mechanism. Recently bought his first VW Jetta TDI with a manual trans and burned the clutch out in 68,000 miles. The German higher performance clutch will not take the abuse of improper downshift technique (ie, not matching RPM to the next lower gear via throttle), which he had never learned or utilized in his Honda Civics. I drove with him after the clutch work was completed in the VW, and the man never used the throttle on his downshifts. My advice to him was to sell the manual VW and get an automatic transmission car ... he's an MD and isn't going to learn how to drive properly now.

I shudder to think of what the service life of a clutch would have been for him in a BMW. I used to see folk drive like him blow out BMW clutches, esp on the 5-series, within the first 12,000 miles or so. The marginal increase in performance of the BMW spec'd clutch over the Honda clutch simply wasn't an advantage for their driving needs.

And so it goes with many other aspects of the German cars ... electronics that can do more and are technically superior, but without a net benefit unless you appreciate the detail incremental improvement.

IMO, the last of the BMW's that were simpler, sturdier, and more reliable ended in the early 1970's models, but one is dealing with cars with much less "luxury" features than modern production. That's why clean 2002 models are somewhat collectable as daily drivers, but you don't see many Bavaria's or 2.8/3.0 CS coupes ... the higher end cars were problematic and expensive to maintain. Limited production added to the cost; for example, the rear muffler assembly for a Bavaria was reasonable, but the design for the CS added several inches to the overall length of a comparable muffler ... at over double the cost. You could tell when somebody "cheapied" the exhaust on a CS when the tailpipe tips ended about 8" in front of the rear bumper, underneath the car.

It would be a pretty rare early 320i or 318i that would be in daily driver condition today that didn't require a lot of ongoing maintenance. Later year models got more complex and fragile while delivering much more luxury, better A/C systems, and performance, but at a cost.

One of my sons bought a 635CSi with about 80,000 on the odo a few years ago. Thought he got a deal on a rust-free, clean straight one-owner car at $2,000. Between suspension, electrical, electronics, brakes, climate control, valve job, rotted radiator, falling apart rubber components, and other mechanical items that absolutely needed attention to make the car roadworthy ... he was looking at spending over $20,000 on this car with him doing most of the work himself and sourcing the parts at essentially wholesale price points through the direct importers selling to the public. Despite an exceptional exterior and interior cosmetic condition, virtually none of the car systems worked except that the engine did start and run OK and the transmission (which had been overhauled already) were satisfactory. But the car was pretty much useless ... no functional A/C, no heater (the core had failed and hoses blocked off). He put over $4,000 into the car before putting it up for sale. The extra set of winter wheels with good snow tires were the item that sealed the sale for him to a buyer at $1,500.

I've often fondly remembered some of the fine driving experiences I've had in many 3-5-6-7 series BMW's, with my euro 745i probably being the strongest performer and fun to drive of the bunch. But every time I look around at what's in the marketplace today, I am reminded of why I sold them all through the years and have only kept a few of my 2002's. Foolishly sold my last '72 tii and one car that a client of mine had built up for autocrossing that was pure fun on the street, along with my last 2.8 Bavaria, when I moved out of Colorado.

Keep in mind that I'm in the trade, have professionally worked on BMW's since the late 1960's, have all the tooling and specialty tooling to perform my own maintenance, buy my parts at wholesale ... and I still cannot justify keeping virtually any newer BMW on the road for a transportation car. If you have to pay a pro shop to keep your older BMW on the road, you'll pay dearly for the experience ... if that's worth it to you, then so be it.

PS: I've previously posted the experience of my cousin in MD who'd driven Honda products for the last 30 years, with manual transmissions and 180-200,000 mile longevity with minimal ... per manufacturer spec'd ... dealer maintenance.
Two years ago, she decided her last Accord was worn out and it was time to get a new car. She priced new Accords and two year old BMW's off-lease, and the driving experience in the Bimmer's swayed her to a "gotta' have one of these decision". Bought her first bimmer, a 3-series with less than 20,000 one-user local miles. In her first 18 months and 20,000 miles of driving, she has spent far more money on routine consumables and maintenance than she did in any Honda over 200,000 miles of driving. On top of that, she now has to buy premium fuel for the BMW, which adds to the increased expenses and higher insurance premiums. Having now bought a BMW and experienced the realities of ownership, she recognizes that the BMW does nothing more for her transportation requirements than did her Honda's. The "fun" factor of driving the BMW wore off for her in the first few thousand miles, and the cost of having that available for her has and will not be of any value to her. In my experience with many customers over decades, that's not an uncommon outcome. I'm not picking on BMW's here ... the same experience has held true for many other clients who ultimately came to realize that the BMW performance edge over the cars they were driving wasn't usable or worth the cost per mile and downtime that came with the cars. YMMV.

PPS: my cousin had to buy her first set of replacement tires for her BMW. Sticker shock ensued; specialty size tires for the car means limited choices and high cost.

Last edited by sunsprit; 07-29-2013 at 05:21 PM..
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Old 07-29-2013, 05:52 PM
 
838 posts, read 2,524,134 times
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Having owned an M5 for going on 6 years now, I'd have to recommend against getting any 10+ yr old BMW unless you know how to work on them yourself. Maintenance might not be that bad, but with M cars, owners get obsessive about preventative maintenance and keeping the cars in top condition. I've probably spent over $5k on repairs that might not have been necessary, but thankfully I didn't have to pay anyone labor to do the work.

The one thing I hate about the M5 is it goes through tires pretty quick. I usually get 2 sets of rears to every 1 set of fronts. Think the rears run about $300ea installed, michelin pilot super sport.

Also, if you're even slightly concerned with having to buy premium gas all the time, that might be an indication that this kind of car is not for you.
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Old 07-29-2013, 06:01 PM
 
Location: plano
7,887 posts, read 11,404,388 times
Reputation: 7798
An alternative that will be more reliable most likely is an Infiniti M45 around 2006 edition. Japanese reliability with good performance. I have owned a number of Infinti V8's with low maintenance up to well above 100k miles. I change the oil and filter frequency and do routine maintenance as recommended by the manual for the most rigorous conditions even though I drove a lot of highway miles with mine.

I know many see Infiniti as a glorified Nissan, which is not true for the model mentioned. Also Toyota gets more US attention and love than it does in Japan where Toyota is considered a notch beneath Nissan.

Good luck!
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Old 07-29-2013, 06:17 PM
 
Location: Mount Laurel
4,187 posts, read 11,926,019 times
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I would not consider a 2004 car with 70K-100K miles high mileage. It is close to 10 years old and 10K miles a year is not a lot. Whether it's Japanese, German or American cars, high mileage car has repair cost. The parts itself is not a huge difference if you are not paying retail. The increase in maintenance is usually due to the higher cost for hourly rate.

I purchased a 2000 540 about 5 years ago and drove it for almost 3 years without having much trouble. The only major repair I had to do was front wheel bearings. It was less than $300 for parts and I did it myself. I know it's a different story if it was done at a dealer. I sold it and my total cost of ownership during the 3 years was about $2000 a year plus gas.
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Old 07-29-2013, 07:30 PM
 
Location: Rio
551 posts, read 1,121,607 times
Reputation: 190
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnhw2 View Post
An alternative that will be more reliable most likely is an Infiniti M45 around 2006 edition. Japanese reliability with good performance. I have owned a number of Infinti V8's with low maintenance up to well above 100k miles. I change the oil and filter frequency and do routine maintenance as recommended by the manual for the most rigorous conditions even though I drove a lot of highway miles with mine.

I know many see Infiniti as a glorified Nissan, which is not true for the model mentioned. Also Toyota gets more US attention and love than it does in Japan where Toyota is considered a notch beneath Nissan.

Good luck!
Yeah and thanks, I have the Infiniti G35 in mind as well.
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Old 07-29-2013, 08:28 PM
 
Location: Long Island
9,531 posts, read 15,878,593 times
Reputation: 5949
Quote:
Originally Posted by AstonMartinNY View Post
Cool and what's funny is that i live around the corner from this place that specializes in BMW's. They also have a Nissan GTR in front. So a place like them would be ideal?
BMW Repair Shops - Find a BMW Mechanic | BimmerShops.com for a reputable indy shop. The one I go to has been very good. They charge $95/hr for labor which is respectable considering a corner gas station charged $80 quite a few years back from what i recall. Dealers charge something like $135+ and wont hesitate to rip off any warranty company you come in with. Only go if you're still within their warranty. As for parts, online is where it's at. BMW Parts and Accessories at GetBMWparts.com is one of the cheaper places you can find OE stuff because they are actually a part of a dealer but they are internet-sales focused and can provide good prices.

Lastly any previous generation is less prone to failures because the ones today have too many gadgets and sensors in them. The more you add the more it can fail. I have an 08 and fear when things start going south for me. I've already had my share while within the warranty period. Its actually a positive that people lease BMWs. Fully covered for 4 years and theyre good togo again. Sometimes I wish I did that considering I have to keep this car for 7 years before that break-even cost with a lease.
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:00 PM
 
Location: New Haven, CT
1,030 posts, read 4,276,073 times
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They say BMWs are just getting broken in around 100k. I think this is for the 80s 325s (e30) though.... not sure how theyre made now.

Too much technology= more failing parts.
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