reason for screw in piston??? (auto, brake, valve, buy)
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Was helping a neighbor replace brake pads. Front pads took the normal 10-15 minutes with the normal - push the pistons back with a c-clamp.
Rear pads a different story. Discovered that we needed a special tool to screw in the piston. [and there is no way you can do it with needle nose pliers] Had to buy a universal cube for many manufacturers calipers that is used once to do the job.
Anybody know what is the mechanical design purpose of having to screw in the piston and not just the old fashion way of the front calipers using a c-clamp or stick?
That's how the parking brake is applied. The piston rotates out and pushes the pads against the rotor.
By the title of your topic ( reason for screw in piston???) I was expecting to read you had pulled a cylinder head and found a screw in a piston.
You mean heavy duty spiral locks! I know a Mustang that has them with the custom JE forged pistons????? I need to shut up because I'm giving all my secrets away to these kids on here!LOL........
Thanks for the info. You're right and it just made me realize that there was not the old fashion rotor with a 'shoe drum' attached for a parking brake.
Thanks for the info. You're right and it just made me realize that there was not the old fashion rotor with a 'shoe drum' attached for a parking brake.
You need that cube tool as well. Don't do it guys without one. You will be replacing that caliper if you do!
Don't laugh but many years ago, I actually did have a screw in the piston. Old car with carburetor was stolen. Recovered a week later partially stripped. Air cleaner was missing. Drove the car 2 miles and then all kinds of engine noises. After stripping engine, discovered that the theives dropped a screw in the carburetor, got stuck at intake valve, bent valve hit piston, punched hole in piston.
I see the same kind of car at Barrett-Jackson selling for $35,000 61 Chev Impala 2 dr red bubble roof, 348 tri carb, 4 speed
You need that cube tool as well. Don't do it guys without one. You will be replacing that caliper if you do!
I have that little cube (just about useless) as well as a Mac Tools piston retractor set (takes too long). I even considered buying the air operated kit from Sir Tools (way too much money for what little use it would get) but 9 times out of 10 I'll just grab the pair of needle nose that I ground the points off of, spray the dust boot with WD40 and turn the piston in with the pliers.
Some calipers require a plug on the back to be removed and an allen screw turned to retract the piston.
W body GM cars require the piston to be turned out after installing the caliper to remove the gap between the pads and the rotor. If this is not done, there won't be much of a pedal.
I have that little cube (just about useless) as well as a Mac Tools piston retractor set (takes too long). I even considered buying the air operated kit from Sir Tools (way too much money for what little use it would get) but 9 times out of 10 I'll just grab the pair of needle nose that I ground the points off of, spray the dust boot with WD40 and turn the piston in with the pliers.
Some calipers require a plug on the back to be removed and an allen screw turned to retract the piston.
W body GM cars require the piston to be turned out after installing the caliper to remove the gap between the pads and the rotor. If this is not done, there won't be much of a pedal.
As long as you don't try to use a c-clamp on it. My buddy did this once with a huge c-clamp and it had so much force it cracked the caliper in the process. "I really done it now Rugged"! LMOA......... You dumba**!!!!
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I need to shut up because I'm giving all my secrets away to these kids on here!LOL........
You dumba**!!!!
