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I would get another car as long as you are not up to your eyeballs in other debts. There some a point where you don't want to drive it ALL THE WAY until the wheels fall off because then it will be tough to find a buyer or the dealership doesn't even want your trade. Almost happened to me. I was trying to get rid of my 2000 Daewoo Lanos and 3 dealerships said No way. The last one said yes. I would buy a new car (I got a new 2007 Nissan Sentra for $15,500) and drive it almost until the wheels falls off, lol which is about 10-12 for me.
No offense but Daewoo's weren't worth -it when they were younger.
If the dealer does not want your car as a trade-in, if it will start and move under it's own power, at least around here you can sell it to an individual for $500 or so. And that's more than the dealer will really give you for it anyway.
The OP's Toy is a car that you can and should keep on the road for a long time IMHO. It helps if you can DIY but if you have a decent indy shop to do the more involved repairs that will work too.
Yeah... I'm starting to think it's the rear bearings! I'm reaching now... I know!!! One of my buddies' mechanic is going to look at it this weekend. He's supposedly very good with suspension/front-rear end issues. It could either be something simple or something very expensive, we'll see! I'm holding off on Timing belt/water pump and Transmission fluid/filter service until I figure this thing out.
Try taking it to a shop that specializes in alignment and have them take a look at it. I had that problem with a 1990 Mazda 323 and they were able to fix it. The rear needed alignment. Never had any trouble after that.
I would get another car as long as you are not up to your eyeballs in other debts. There some a point where you don't want to drive it ALL THE WAY until the wheels fall off because then it will be tough to find a buyer or the dealership doesn't even want your trade. Almost happened to me. I was trying to get rid of my 2000 Daewoo Lanos and 3 dealerships said No way. The last one said yes. I would buy a new car (I got a new 2007 Nissan Sentra for $15,500) and drive it almost until the wheels falls off, lol which is about 10-12 for me.
Daewoos had no value as GM refused to honor the warranties ( they were NOT legally obliged to as they acquired the assets of a bankrupt company).
Most dealerships dropped the brand as they would be unable to get parts for the vehicles.
It sounds like part of your problem is that you are dealing with an/several unethical shop/s or mechanics. There is absolutely no way changing the coolant would ever, in any universe, be so time consuming or so difficult as to cost $1000. You know that already.
And they are likely misleading you, or just flat out lying about how much work you need. Even ethical mechanics by their commercially motivated bias, will exaggerate to extreme degrees.
Quote:
Originally Posted by X-Greensboro Resident
So when would you pull the plug on the old (paid for) car and buy a new one? What makes sense?
I got a 97 Toyota Corolla DX (1.8 L) with 120K miles. I commute a long way to work everyday (50 miles total/day) and it's the perfect car for that; however, it's due for some expensive maintenance and repairs. It's due for a timing belt/water pump replacement and the 120K service which includes Auto transmission service, plugs, wires, Coolant flush etc (approximately $1000 bucks!)... And it's having some front end/rear end issues, I'm betting it needs struts etc... (I'm taking it to my mechanic shop on Tuesday for this issue..) It's pretty ugly and with a rougher body (some dents etc...) On the positive side, it doesn't burn or leak any oil, it has new tires, new radiator, new AC condenser, is very good on gas, very cheap to insure, cheap property taxes and tags.
So, the old lady (who hates the car! LOL) and most of my friends think I'm crazy to put another dime in this car and should buy a new car. Well, I'm cheap and I don't want to either spend a big chunk of change or have car payments. What would you do? What would make more sense? I'd like to hear some REALISTIC opinions please!
P.S. If I were to buy a new car, I'd buy a 1-2 year old Honda Civic, Honda Fit or a Toyota Corolla with less than 30K miles.
It sounds like part of your problem is that you are dealing with an/several unethical shop/s or mechanics. There is absolutely no way changing the coolant would ever, in any universe, be so time consuming or so difficult as to cost $1000. You know that already.
And they are likely misleading you, or just flat out lying about how much work you need. Even ethical mechanics by their commercially motivated bias, will exaggerate to extreme degrees.
Reread it. The $1,000 included all these....
timing belt/water pump replacement
120K service which includes Auto transmission service, plugs, wires, coolant flush, etc.
I got $200 in trade in for a car with just under 200K miles on it. And I got the best price in the area on the new car as well.
Or, you can just have it hauled to the junkyard. I think I got $70 bucks from the junkyard for a car that was nearly twenty years old. I paid about $150 bucks for the car and it ran. Until it got into an accident.
Quote:
Originally Posted by skeet09
I would get another car as long as you are not up to your eyeballs in other debts. There some a point where you don't want to drive it ALL THE WAY until the wheels fall off because then it will be tough to find a buyer or the dealership doesn't even want your trade. Almost happened to me. I was trying to get rid of my 2000 Daewoo Lanos and 3 dealerships said No way. The last one said yes. I would buy a new car (I got a new 2007 Nissan Sentra for $15,500) and drive it almost until the wheels falls off, lol which is about 10-12 for me.
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-it when they were younger.
