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So I've had my 2011 Camaro SS for about 10 months, and I've yet to wax it. I've noticed the paint isn't looking as shiny as it did when I bought it. Plus I did the "plastic baggy test" and the surface of my car is very bumpy to the touch. So I figure its time to do a clay and wax job. I've never done either and I've seen stories on the net about how claybars can be quite abrasive on your paint. Can anyone give an amateur any pointers so I don't destroy my paint? BTW I think I'm going with Meguiars products, but if there is something any better I'm open to suggestions.
I washed, clay-ed and waxed my car 2 weeks ago the first time , and clay-ing did not seem cause any harm to the paint.
The process of clay is to spray the detailer on a certain portion of the car, rub the clay bar over it, and then wipe it off. Do not rub the clay bar on any dry portion of the paint- that might cause abrasions.
My suggestion will be to wash the car before you clay and wax it.
!. Wash-generally using an actual car wash soap, but this time it's OK to use dishwashing soap, which is more likely to strip any existing wax/sealants off the paint. DO NOT use a dishwashing soap with any crystals in it for obvious reasons. This is also the time to get any tar, bugs, or other junk off the paint.
2. Claybar-this seems more daunting than in actually is. As was said above, never clay a dry surface. You can use a detailer, or a very weak dish soap/water mixture in a spray bottle. Spray a small area, run the clay over that area in a circular motion with just a little more pressure than is necessary to keep the clay from sliding out from under your hand. It takes little force for the clay to do its job. Spray, clay, repeat. Roll the clay in on itself (think Silly Putty) every few areas. When done, rinse the car to get any clay residue off.
IF YOU DROP THE CLAY, THROW IT AWAY. You don't want to run the risk of picking something up from the ground and rubbing it into the paint. All it takes is a couple grains of sand you can't even see. It's not worth it.
3. Polish-the most often skipped step. This is where you get the paint as smooth as it can be, and remove any scratches.
4. Wax-protects the paint. Some waxes are meant to be polishes as well.
There are other intermediate steps, depending on the condition of the paint and how much work you're willing top put into it.
Take your time, stay out of the sun. Watch some Youtube videos, but be sure to watch a range of them. Idiots can post just as easily as knowledgeable people!
On the subject of what brand to use, you'll get a lot of opinions. Meguair's is as good as anything else in it's range, and I seldom see any negatives about it. I've had excellent results with Zaino, but it's a lot more expensive.
3. Polish-the most often skipped step. This is where you get the paint as smooth as it can be, and remove any scratches.
I've heard that its polish that makes the car shine. Are we talking about wiping some NuFinish on the car or actually taking a buffer on it? I do not have a buffer or PC.
Quote:
Take your time, stay out of the sun
I know that staying out of the sun for claying is an absolute must; however, I've got some Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax that claims you can use it in direct sunlight. I'm a little nervous doing it simply because the temperature in my area is going to be in the upper 80's.
I suggest, wash it with dish soap, then go back and do a 2 bucket wash with dish soap. One bucket gets the dirty sponge, then you dip in the clean bucket.
Then I wash with a good car wash. I get a spray bottle fill it with a mixture of carwash and water, I spray areas and use the claybar.
Ideally in the shade with the spray mix listed above. The clay bar feels like a hockey puck on ice. You will see it "snag" on areas, that is where you need to keep going over, until it eventually feels like a hockey puck on ice.
Be careful as said before about dropping it. With the slick soap and floating it around like a hockey puck it can get away from you quickly.
I've heard that its polish that makes the car shine. Are we talking about wiping some NuFinish on the car or actually taking a buffer on it? I do not have a buffer or PC.
I know that staying out of the sun for claying is an absolute must; however, I've got some Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax that claims you can use it in direct sunlight. I'm a little nervous doing it simply because the temperature in my area is going to be in the upper 80's.
Polish is what gives the car its real luster, as you suggest. Wax by itself does not, which is a common misconception. People wax their cars but don't polish the paint beforehand, and wonder why their paint doesn't glow as it could. A buffer is best, but you need to know how to use it, or A.) won't do a great job or B.) you can damage the paint.
Stay out of the sun, until you are done. Period. The only time I can think of that you might want the car to be in the sun is to speed up the drying of paste wax, prior to removal. Even then, who wants to work on a hot car?
!. Wash-generally using an actual car wash soap, but this time it's OK to use dishwashing soap, which is more likely to strip any existing wax/sealants off the paint. DO NOT use a dishwashing soap with any crystals in it for obvious reasons. This is also the time to get any tar, bugs, or other junk off the paint.
2. Claybar-this seems more daunting than in actually is. As was said above, never clay a dry surface. You can use a detailer, or a very weak dish soap/water mixture in a spray bottle. Spray a small area, run the clay over that area in a circular motion with just a little more pressure than is necessary to keep the clay from sliding out from under your hand. It takes little force for the clay to do its job. Spray, clay, repeat. Roll the clay in on itself (think Silly Putty) every few areas. When done, rinse the car to get any clay residue off.
IF YOU DROP THE CLAY, THROW IT AWAY. You don't want to run the risk of picking something up from the ground and rubbing it into the paint. All it takes is a couple grains of sand you can't even see. It's not worth it.
3. Polish-the most often skipped step. This is where you get the paint as smooth as it can be, and remove any scratches.
4. Wax-protects the paint. Some waxes are meant to be polishes as well.
There are other intermediate steps, depending on the condition of the paint and how much work you're willing top put into it.
Take your time, stay out of the sun. Watch some Youtube videos, but be sure to watch a range of them. Idiots can post just as easily as knowledgeable people!
On the subject of what brand to use, you'll get a lot of opinions. Meguair's is as good as anything else in it's range, and I seldom see any negatives about it. I've had excellent results with Zaino, but it's a lot more expensive.
Excellent advice, the devil is in the details.
Maguires and Autopia are both good sites to get the right procedure and good detailing habits.
Polish is what gives the car its real luster, as you suggest. Wax by itself does not, which is a common misconception. People wax their cars but don't polish the paint beforehand, and wonder why their paint doesn't glow as it could. A buffer is best, but you need to know how to use it, or A.) won't do a great job or B.) you can damage the paint.
Stay out of the sun, until you are done. Period. The only time I can think of that you might want the car to be in the sun is to speed up the drying of paste wax, prior to removal. Even then, who wants to work on a hot car?
Yeah, I'm not sure why they would even advertise you can wax in the sun. Weird.
I know to truly get the best results you probably need some sort of orbital or buffer. That's probably why a lot of people skip it. Fortunately I really only have some faint scratches (no full blown swirls) on my hood. What do you think about Meguiars Ultimate Compound for a hand application?
I think you are doing a lot more than you have to do by using a clay bar.
Your car shouldn't need that much to bring out the gloss, it isn't that old.
Now, what I recommend is, washing the vehicle to remove old wax.
I am against using any kind of soap on a vehicle, but in this case where you need to get rid of old wax, use dish liquid.
Once finished,after the car is dry, apply a light rubbing compound.
For this, I recommend using a product by 3M company called "fine cut rubbing compound".
Comes in a black plastic bottle.
It is a liquid that goes on easy, and wipes off easy.
This will bring back a smooth surface and will have a shine to it.
After compounding, apply wax.
For years I have used turtle wax (not polish) twice a year on all my vehicles.
When finished, your vehicle will look better than it did when brand new.
Any one who frequents this forum knows that I am against using soap on any vehicle.
Those automated car washes are absolutely forbidden.
Once you car is finished, to keep it looking great, all you need is about twenty minutes whenever you feel like it, and a damp rag with just good ole plain water on it.
Wipe a section with the damp rag, and finish with a dry, soft towel to buff it out.
If you, by some quirk, manage to get a build up of mud on it, take a hose,and a rag, and remove it.
NO SOAP!!!!
One more product I wouldn't be without is Meguire's ultimate detail in the black spray bottle.
You won't believe the gloss this product will leave on your baby.
There isn't a better product on the market for keeping that beautiful high gloss finish.
If you need proof of what I am telling you here, the pictures speak for themselves.
None of my vehicles have ever seen a drop of soap , EVER.
Bob.
So I've had my 2011 Camaro SS for about 10 months, and I've yet to wax it. I've noticed the paint isn't looking as shiny as it did when I bought it. Plus I did the "plastic baggy test" and the surface of my car is very bumpy to the touch. So I figure its time to do a clay and wax job. I've never done either and I've seen stories on the net about how claybars can be quite abrasive on your paint. Can anyone give an amateur any pointers so I don't destroy my paint? BTW I think I'm going with Meguiars products, but if there is something any better I'm open to suggestions.
DUDE! Please listen to me. There's a lot of BAD advice in this thread. DO NOT use dish soap on your 2011 Camaro! THAT will dull your paint. You know how dish soap is obviously designed to cut grease from dishes, pots and pans? That same effect will not only strip your wax, but also strip the natural and necessary oil from your car's paint. You know how part of maintaining a car's paint is polishing? Polishing is basically oil. It is "paint conditioner". It's best the paint is always fully nourished with oil. The polishing process is what makes the paint shiny and have depth. Dish soap reverses the polishing process. Again, don't use dishsoap.
Meguiar's car care products are top notch. Some of the best. Everything you need can be found at the below link as well as at Walmart or any auto parts store. AVOID Turtle Wax's products - some of their stuff will inflict scratches and swirls into your car. My had has a 56 Corvette, 40 Chevy Coupe, and a few other nice cars and he uses Meguiar's products. I've also used Meguiar's on my Mercedes.
First, I would HAND wash your car with a good wash mitt and good car wash. Make sure you get the lips of the fenders and all the cracks and crevices really good. Look closely at the paint as you're going along washing it, make sure you scrub off any specks of tar or stuck-on junk. If it's bad enough, you may need to buy and use a tar remover with a rag in the specific areas tar is on the car. Here's the car wash I use. It washes well, leaves the car slick, and leaves a layer of supplemental wax. I like it because it really works and keeps the paint protected and makes the real wax job last longer if you hand wash it with this stuff every time:
You need to dry the car with a good chamois, following the directions that come with it and wringing it frequently. I use the real thing, but whatever you think works for you.
Step 2 - Clay Bar (since you want to):
I would use the product I'll link below. Meguiar "Smooth Surface Clay Kit". It comes with everything you need and instructions. The idea here is to spray the car with the quik detailer and form the clay into a bar and glide it across the paint to pick up any contamination and oxidation. The clay should glide very smoothly over most of the car. It will only grab where it is actually removing contamination:
The product in the link below, used by hand with a FOAM pad only, will not only remove the wax, but also polish the paint and further remove any contamination, oxidation, and even very light swirls or scratches. It has very mild cleaning micro-abrasive power and is made to be used with a machine, so I feel it's especially safe to use twice a year or so. Use it lightly, not vigorously. It'll do it's job:
If you have a dark colored car and want to ensure it has a maximum shine, you can follow the above process with a "pure polish", which is just polishing oil - no cleaning or abrasive power. It will ensure quite a shine, but eventually this stuff becomes a lot of work!:
I use caranuba (natural) wax, but you could use the Ultimate Wax, which is synthetic. A lot of people believe the synthetic lasts longer. Wax goes a long way, you don't need to think of coat, but it should be even all over the car. Let it glaze, work to polish it off! Then go back over it to get what you missed. Personally, I do two coats of wax, which you have to wait at least 12 hours for the second for the first to fully bond or whatever otherwise it's pointless. So I usually try to do the first at night and do the next the next morning. You don't wanna drive your car and then wax it again. Do it while it's clean as you don't wanna get dust and stuff on the paint and wax over it!
The only other thing I can say is make sure you get everything buffed off with a terry cloth before going to the next step. When you're all done, you can go over the car with a clean rag for one last buffing so you don't end up seeing wax in spots when you get the car out in the sun.
Good luck! And don't use dish soap on a nice car like that!
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, and clay-ing did not seem cause any harm to the paint. 
