Help! Need recommendations on fences, and what to do about neighbor!

[ScoPro]

Lots of good advice here.

Had our son rebuild about half our old fence recently. He used the 2.5" galvanized steel posts & caps - each sunk in 40 lbs of concrete, three treated horizontal rails, and 6"x6' treated pickets. Then used several gallons of VERY expensive sealer ($40/gallon) to coat all wood surfaces.

The materials for the 60' back fence cost around $750, plus his labor.

He did a great job and it looks really nice.

[CptnRn]

Originally Posted by ScoPro

Lots of good advice here.

Had our son rebuild about half our old fence recently. He used the 2.5" galvanized steel posts & caps - each sunk in 40 lbs of concrete, three treated horizontal rails, and 6"x6' treated pickets. Then used several gallons of VERY expensive sealer ($40/gallon) to coat all wood surfaces.

The materials for the 60' back fence cost around $750, plus his labor.

He did a great job and it looks really nice.

Advice from an architect:

Every fence I have replaced was because the posts rotted out. Pickets and rails are easy to replace, its replacing posts which are hard work. So last time I replaced mine I used galvanized steel posts and three treated horizontal rails. The metal posts will easily last 3 -4 times longer then wood posts. If you can't afford that minor upgrade then definitely use treated posts rather then cedar. Cedar posts will rot out considerably faster and termites don't mind eating cedar at all and the posts serve as the path they use to get to the rails and pickets. Definitely set the posts in concrete.

The third horizontal rails will add very little extra cost and make the fence considerably stronger, which will help it hold together much longer.

Use 4" wide Cedar Pickets, treated wood pickets warp so badly most fence companies refuse to install them because they know they will get complaints. Also 4" wide pickets will minimize the appearance of any cupping and warping. Install the pickets with a 1" gap at the bottom so they are not in contact with the soil, this will help keep the termites out.

[imcurious]

Can you post links of galvanized steel posts? Or a picture of your fence? I can't imagine how they look combined with the wood. Where do you get them and how much do they cost?

[Dewmik]

Use the treated wood. It will last much longer. The only thing I would say is that the post should come from a lumber yard, not Home Depot or Lowe's. They have horrible wood that is more prone to warping then nice dry wood form the yard

[Jerksticks]

I do this for a living so my advice would be to seal the heck out of any wood, especially the end grain. I don't care what they tell you about Pressure-Treated lumber, end grain is end grain at the end of the day.

Feel free to use cedar as long as you seal the heck out of it. It it's sealed it can't rot. If it can't rot it can't be eaten by termites. The natural oils of cedar are extremely poisonous to termites- it's not an old wive's tale as long as it's sound and sealed. Good luck!

[Moneywoman7]

I totally agree with imcurious, By using Gravel and then Quick cure cement ( just pour out of the bag ) is great for drainage.
We used Gravel Tamped down with the post in the hole and ½ a bag of cement vs. having to use at least 1 or more bags of cement per hole and this doesn't allow for drainage around the pile of cement dumped in the hole.